John Paul Gaultier's Cage aux Folles
Suzy Menkes, IHT.com PARIS: The fluorescent laser beams that raked over the finale of Jean Paul Gaultier's show Wednesday marked a sweet moment for fashion and for the designer, who broke out of his Cages aux Folles to create an exuberant and exceptional collection.
As a shadow of a basket-weave vest created a tracery of pattern on a bared back, or as purple silk was viewed through a peep show of cut-outs, Gaultier had found a theme that was in tune with the current vogue for lace, yet also meaningful in the modern world. For the cages that he created by criss-crossing a coat with leather straps or by turning the weave into a nonchalant fur-trimmed gilet were never constricting.
"Like a bird - the woman is free," Gaultier said backstage, referring to the many imaginative ways he wove his story from faux crinoline bustles that went over, not under, a slithering satin dress to the bride, in her Guipure lace dress with a veil like a formal garden's arched trellis.
The backs of the outfits were often as arresting as the fronts and made the show a fascinating maze of basket work, including the chignon as a cage, lacy helmet hats and open-work shoes.
It could all have been so forced, as the designer's over-reaching themes have recently seemed. But after 11 years of couture, Gaultier brought together perfectly the sense of luxury and elegance he creates as designer for Hermès, his own inimitable wit and a defining sense of Frenchness.
Yes, the Parisienne who is still ready to suffer to be beautiful might dare to try the high-top coiffure - but she also wraps her leather trench coat like a caress and wears pants with a nonchalant glamour. Gaultier understands that French seduction, which is why Pierre Bergé saw him as a natural successor to Yves Saint Laurent, whose influence could be seen in a white woollen cage of a dress.
But Gaultier, 56, has developed his own house codes, like a certain ox blood red, a jaunty pair of breeches, and a way of touching clothes with fur and throwing in pattern. This season he inserted a metal-mesh material and added fluorescent colors like lime green and pink to give a jolt to the classics.
As the eternal enfant terrible ran down the runway through the laser beams, he deserved the shouts of applause for a fashion tour de force.