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Lila there is even giving the thumbs up!
Jefferson Hack (April 2005 - April 2010)
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His 2nd column
www.telegraph.co.uk
The edge of reason
Last Updated: 12:01am BST 23/05/2007
In his second fortnightly column on men’s style, Jefferson Hack, the edgy commentator explores the influence of club culture and praises design maverick Jeremy Scott for bringing humour to fashion
Since the 1950s, nightclubs and street style have influenced fashion.
Sign of the times: photographer Alistair Allan poses for a quick shotThe avant-garde has always had its own way of putting things together. The London style tribes of the club kids, the dandies, punks or indie rockers, the sneaker freaks and retro geeks see their ideas transferred from dance floor to designer boutique. The avant-garde inspires the fashion elite, which over time influences the high street. It's a trickle-down effect that's slowly been chipping away at the uniform mentality of men and their attitudes to style.
Right now you see it in the collections of Dior, Burberry and Comme des Garçons, as well as in mainstream sportswear: in Nike's cutting-edge iD line and Umbro by Kim Jones, last year's menswear designer of the year at the British Fashion Awards.
On the club scene, the spotlight is on those kids who are living it faster and more furiously than ever before. As soon as a scene establishes itself, it is practically over, splintering into further niches in even further-flung London club venues. Through pop stars such as Björk, the Klaxons and Patrick Wolf, and designers such as Hedi Slimane, formerly of Dior Homme, the radical becomes legitimised. Youth may be wasted on the young, but the avant-garde is increasingly available for everyone.
Designers in search of creative fashion ideas are discovering them in London's East End clubs, which are more flamboyant and free-spirited than they have been for a decade.
Boombox, on a Sunday night, is a case in point. You'll see the good, the bad and the drag queens in self-made, self-styled outfits complete with candy-coloured haircuts and glitter make-up. It's what draws designers like Sophia Kokosalaki and Riccardo Tisci to go clubbing there.
Welcome to fashion's leading edge. Take a surreal peep into a subculture that is influencing international designers and brand identities across the globe. It is time to become familiar with the new avant-garde.
Jeremy Scott
As a multimedia artist, brand builder, social innovator, DJ, stylist, photographer and designer, Jeremy Scott won’t be pigeon-holed.
A Los Angeles-based fashion maverick who has become the iconic designer of the “now” generation, Scott is able to glide through the worlds of pop divas, hip-hop stars, Latino punks, indie kids and Hollywood It Girls. Like his contemporaries Bernard Willhelm and, more recently, London’s Gareth Pugh, he brings escapism, fantasy and increasingly a sense of humour to fashion.
“Making people laugh is the sexiest thing for me,” says Scott. “So much of fashion is too serious. We are not in church here. I like things to be bam!” Which reminds me of what I saw backstage at Scott’s 10th anniversary show in Paris this year. The model Coco Rocha morphed into an inflatable jukebox with an exaggerated beehive.
Model Agyness Deyn’s breasts became pressed headlamps in a taut pink Chevy-inspired dress, and nearby was a guy with a James Dean quiff and a cardigan emblazoned with Hot Rod flames. It was a 1950s Americana-themed surrealist meltdown and I was asphyxiated by hairspray.
Cut to Scott’s big brand collaborations, which have seen him create Keith Haring print trainers for Adidas and a seasonal range of unisex luggage for Longchamp. This month sees the international launch of a collaboration with Australian cult streetwear brand Ksubi. The Jeremy Loves Ksubi range sees colourful skinny jeans, £195, and fingerprint and wire-tap prints on 1980s revival dungarees, £260, for men.
Scott has also introduced a sartorial edge to his club-friendly menswear. A single-breasted blazer in a loose 1950s fit, £300, and a tux jacket in pink and black with playful prints, £375, appear in his autumn/winter 2007 collection, marking a conscious move towards designing for a male market.
“Most of my clientele are men,” says Scott. “A lot are wearing things I make for the girls, like the leggings. But I am doing more men-specific pieces. Right now I am working on some fleece tuxedo jackets.”
Jeremy Scott is available from: Kokon To Zai, 57 Greek Street, London W1D 3DX, tel: 020 7434 1316; Jeremy Loves Ksubi from Selfridges, Oxford St, WC1, tel: 0870 8377377
Alistair Allan
Young and gifted photographer Alistair Allan started his Dirty Dirty Dancing website just over a year ago to document the faces and fashion of London’s dress-up clubs.
“It’s fun for everyone to make an effort and then be flattered. It’s also about competition and community,” says Allan. Pictures go live the next day, offering instant profile, gratification and gossip for the scene. And what about the fashion? “Young people are not concerned with brands any more,” he says, “but they do respect good designers.”
The evidence is all there on www.dirtydirtydancing.com.
Geordon Nicol
New York’s Misshapes are a DJ trio whose eponymous nightclub at Don Hill’s in the West Village has been setting trends in the city for more than three years.
Jeremy Scott is a regular DJ at their Saturday night gatherings. Here Geordon Nicol , one third of Misshapes, tells us what he’s enjoying on the web right now.
www.misshapes.com This is for our weekly Misshapes party. We post a few hundred photos every week of everyone who attends, from Madonna to our local punk.
www.epiclylaterd.com One of the best blogs on the internet, this gives an intimate look into the lives of some of the most interesting people I know.
www.deerdana.com This is one of my best friend’s photo blogs. Dana takes beautiful photos of our friends and families. Her images are always personal, and she gets the best out of people. She is underground and always will be. A real spirit of the avant-garde.
www.myspace.com/theteenagers One of my favourite bands — all their remixes are amazing.
www.sophialamarwillkillyou.com My favourite person in New York, Sophia is a true New York legend who has hosted our parties since their invention. Her website is brilliantly designed, with inventive graphics and of course her music and artwork.
www.telegraph.co.uk
The edge of reason
Last Updated: 12:01am BST 23/05/2007
In his second fortnightly column on men’s style, Jefferson Hack, the edgy commentator explores the influence of club culture and praises design maverick Jeremy Scott for bringing humour to fashion
Since the 1950s, nightclubs and street style have influenced fashion.
Sign of the times: photographer Alistair Allan poses for a quick shotThe avant-garde has always had its own way of putting things together. The London style tribes of the club kids, the dandies, punks or indie rockers, the sneaker freaks and retro geeks see their ideas transferred from dance floor to designer boutique. The avant-garde inspires the fashion elite, which over time influences the high street. It's a trickle-down effect that's slowly been chipping away at the uniform mentality of men and their attitudes to style.
Right now you see it in the collections of Dior, Burberry and Comme des Garçons, as well as in mainstream sportswear: in Nike's cutting-edge iD line and Umbro by Kim Jones, last year's menswear designer of the year at the British Fashion Awards.
On the club scene, the spotlight is on those kids who are living it faster and more furiously than ever before. As soon as a scene establishes itself, it is practically over, splintering into further niches in even further-flung London club venues. Through pop stars such as Björk, the Klaxons and Patrick Wolf, and designers such as Hedi Slimane, formerly of Dior Homme, the radical becomes legitimised. Youth may be wasted on the young, but the avant-garde is increasingly available for everyone.
Designers in search of creative fashion ideas are discovering them in London's East End clubs, which are more flamboyant and free-spirited than they have been for a decade.
Boombox, on a Sunday night, is a case in point. You'll see the good, the bad and the drag queens in self-made, self-styled outfits complete with candy-coloured haircuts and glitter make-up. It's what draws designers like Sophia Kokosalaki and Riccardo Tisci to go clubbing there.
Welcome to fashion's leading edge. Take a surreal peep into a subculture that is influencing international designers and brand identities across the globe. It is time to become familiar with the new avant-garde.
Jeremy Scott
As a multimedia artist, brand builder, social innovator, DJ, stylist, photographer and designer, Jeremy Scott won’t be pigeon-holed.
A Los Angeles-based fashion maverick who has become the iconic designer of the “now” generation, Scott is able to glide through the worlds of pop divas, hip-hop stars, Latino punks, indie kids and Hollywood It Girls. Like his contemporaries Bernard Willhelm and, more recently, London’s Gareth Pugh, he brings escapism, fantasy and increasingly a sense of humour to fashion.
“Making people laugh is the sexiest thing for me,” says Scott. “So much of fashion is too serious. We are not in church here. I like things to be bam!” Which reminds me of what I saw backstage at Scott’s 10th anniversary show in Paris this year. The model Coco Rocha morphed into an inflatable jukebox with an exaggerated beehive.
Model Agyness Deyn’s breasts became pressed headlamps in a taut pink Chevy-inspired dress, and nearby was a guy with a James Dean quiff and a cardigan emblazoned with Hot Rod flames. It was a 1950s Americana-themed surrealist meltdown and I was asphyxiated by hairspray.
Cut to Scott’s big brand collaborations, which have seen him create Keith Haring print trainers for Adidas and a seasonal range of unisex luggage for Longchamp. This month sees the international launch of a collaboration with Australian cult streetwear brand Ksubi. The Jeremy Loves Ksubi range sees colourful skinny jeans, £195, and fingerprint and wire-tap prints on 1980s revival dungarees, £260, for men.
Scott has also introduced a sartorial edge to his club-friendly menswear. A single-breasted blazer in a loose 1950s fit, £300, and a tux jacket in pink and black with playful prints, £375, appear in his autumn/winter 2007 collection, marking a conscious move towards designing for a male market.
“Most of my clientele are men,” says Scott. “A lot are wearing things I make for the girls, like the leggings. But I am doing more men-specific pieces. Right now I am working on some fleece tuxedo jackets.”
Jeremy Scott is available from: Kokon To Zai, 57 Greek Street, London W1D 3DX, tel: 020 7434 1316; Jeremy Loves Ksubi from Selfridges, Oxford St, WC1, tel: 0870 8377377
Alistair Allan
Young and gifted photographer Alistair Allan started his Dirty Dirty Dancing website just over a year ago to document the faces and fashion of London’s dress-up clubs.
“It’s fun for everyone to make an effort and then be flattered. It’s also about competition and community,” says Allan. Pictures go live the next day, offering instant profile, gratification and gossip for the scene. And what about the fashion? “Young people are not concerned with brands any more,” he says, “but they do respect good designers.”
The evidence is all there on www.dirtydirtydancing.com.
Geordon Nicol
New York’s Misshapes are a DJ trio whose eponymous nightclub at Don Hill’s in the West Village has been setting trends in the city for more than three years.
Jeremy Scott is a regular DJ at their Saturday night gatherings. Here Geordon Nicol , one third of Misshapes, tells us what he’s enjoying on the web right now.
www.misshapes.com This is for our weekly Misshapes party. We post a few hundred photos every week of everyone who attends, from Madonna to our local punk.
www.epiclylaterd.com One of the best blogs on the internet, this gives an intimate look into the lives of some of the most interesting people I know.
www.deerdana.com This is one of my best friend’s photo blogs. Dana takes beautiful photos of our friends and families. Her images are always personal, and she gets the best out of people. She is underground and always will be. A real spirit of the avant-garde.
www.myspace.com/theteenagers One of my favourite bands — all their remixes are amazing.
www.sophialamarwillkillyou.com My favourite person in New York, Sophia is a true New York legend who has hosted our parties since their invention. Her website is brilliantly designed, with inventive graphics and of course her music and artwork.
le go garçon 84
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i love his personal style, though he should start lifting some weights, not much just a little, he would look a lot better
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