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The world of men’s fashion has never been more in tune with contemporary art. Here Jefferson Hack spotlights Zoltar the Magnificent and Martin Margiela, two arty labels that take over galleries to unveil their collections
'Humour is deadly serious," deadpans Sir Norman Rosenthal, director of the Royal Academy and champion of new art talent. We are standing in the Soho showroom of Zoltar the Magnificent, the luxury men's label created by the artist and style provocateur Dan Macmillan.
Macmillan has brought us together for a preview of the label's new spring/summer 2008 collection and to screen a short art film he has directed featuring Rhys Ifans dressed in clothes by Zoltar. The humorous homage to the American performance artist Paul McCarthy impressed us both. "Art should be funny," says the venerable knight. "The fact that we are even here is funny."
Art connoisseurs are rarely interested in clothing trends, but the worlds of fashion and contemporary art are edging ever closer.
The last time I saw Sir Norman was in the summer at a dinner hosted by designer Miuccia Prada during the Venice Biennale. From the far end of the dining table, he noticed a detail on my T-shirt. He asked if the "Last of England" motif was a reference to the film by the 1980s art-house director Derek Jarman. And, of course, it was.
Macmillan's Zoltar label used to be more of an inside joke for the art world. Last year, during London's Frieze Art Fair, it hosted Anti-Frieze, an exhibition, clothing launch and live gig held at Edgware Road tube station. Today, it is a more serious luxury proposition.
The Zoltar line includes Harrington-style jackets, cashmere V-necks and quality denim – today's basic uniform for casually dressed men – infused with bold colours, provocative graphic detailing and a sense of humour. The current collection, called Baron Samedi and inspired by voodoo imagery, includes hooded tops with skeleton graphics. Pieces have already been seen on the likes of Damien Hirst and rapper Kanye West.
However, Zoltar's forthcoming collection, a collaboration with creative director Kieron Livingstone, is inspired by British illustrators, from 18th- and 19th-century satirists such as William Hogarth and George Cruickshank to newspaper cartoonists Giles and Alfred Bestall, who drew the Rupert Bear strip.
A T-shirt featuring enlarged medals of honour in bright pop colours catches Sir Norman's eye. "Aha!" he declares. "Now that's something suitable for my knighthood."
Macmillan, great-grandson of Harold Macmillan, is an artist as much as he is a fashion designer. "I'm a raving blender," he says, "a bit of Savile Row, a bit of punk rock, a bit of casual, a bit of football hooligan, a bit of Japanese street kid."
The ideal Zoltar client, says Macmillan, is "a man with taste who comes to London in Frieze Art week to drop a couple of grand on a painting; one who also wants to look snappy and have a conversation-igniting piece of clothing that reflects the art he's into.
"I'd love to open shops that are part-gallery, part-shop, part-teahouse, part-hangout. Right now I'm working with old English manufacturers in Savile Row and Jermyn Street and giving their designs a twist."
If Zoltar is the cocky, brash London label for art-world insiders, then Martin Margiela is the quietly confident international label for art-world outsiders. The reclusive Belgian designer has built up a solid following with his very wearable line for men who don't want to look as if they've copied their style straight out of a fashion magazine. His clever tailoring and humorous detailing speaks to real men who want individual touches in their clothing.
Margiela's current collection includes a cool, sand-coloured trench coat with a fur collar, a velvet cardigan, green cotton trousers, white leather boots and a key-holder shaped like white dice. My favourite is a burgundy three-piece suit, designed to be worn with a beaded tie but without a shirt. Both confident and casual, it works for the art dealer as well as the artist.
The new spring/summer men's collection was recently shown at a Parisian exhibition. Shoes were made from courier-parcel paper, echoing the recycling habit of Pop artists, while the printed shirts and T-shirts were influenced by 1960s Op Art. A flesh-coloured three?piece suit was slightly surreal, but still effortlessly cool.
I'm a big fan of Margiela's replica series in which he takes vintage pieces and remakes them in exact detail. Last month I wore a fabulous white tuxedo replica to the V&A's Golden Age of Couture gala. Now I have my eye on a leather patchwork jacket from his new collection, an exact replica of the one worn by Nicolas Cage in Wild at Heart.
Cage's most famous line in the film – "This jacket is a symbol of individuality and my sense of personal freedom" – says it all. I wonder if Sir Norman will guess that's where it's from the next time I bump into him?
• Zoltar's range is available to buy online (
www.zoltar.com) and will soon be sold in the Mayfair fashion emporium Dover Street Market (17-18 Dover Street, London W1; 020 7518 0680;
www.doverstreetmarket.com).
• Maison Martin Margiela (1-9 Bruton Place, London W1, 020 7629 2682;
www.maisonmartinmargiela.com).