Jil Sander Menswear Resort 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Beun]

I really struggle to understand who their menswear customer is, or is supposed to be... Has anyone here bought/desired to by Jil Sander menswear since the Meiers are at the helm of the house?

 

[GoldenTribe]

I don't mind OAMC, but I detest their Jil Sander. It's not minimal, it's not refined, the only word that comes to mind is bad -- every single season.

It has notes of other things, but they never work properly, let alone together -- oversized weirdified sweaters à la Raf Simons's own label, usually some kind of sleeveless tailoring or jumpsuit that wishes it was McQueen (which is also what I think of when I see those chunky combat boots with a faded pink skirt, never mind the gender); ugly haphazard graphics / shapes that remind me of Marni on a really bad day.

When Raf was at the helm, I actually bought things from Jil Sander. I barely remember the post-Raf pre-Meier years (I would have to check Vogue to remember what it looked like), but these days it takes a depressing effort just to scan through the lookbooks. It might as well be Balmain.

And the prices just keep going up -- $7360 for a lapel-less cashmere overcoat on Ssense.

 

[THD96]

It's not as good as their previous show, and the styling is messy. But it's a pre-collection so I'm not expecting much. There are lot of desirable pieces if you break it down into separate pieces.

They're more Phoebe than original Jil Sander spirit at this point, and that's fine by me.

With the price point, I rather choose this over The Row any day.

 

[Lola701]

I really struggle to understand who their menswear customer is, or is supposed to be... Has anyone here bought/desired to by Jil Sander menswear since the Meiers are at the helm of the house?

I actually know a lot of men who buys Jil Sander now.
I think it’s easy to understand and it’s a valeur sûre. I’m not sure people knows the connection between OAMC and Jil Sander tho.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I would buy their separates and accessories, the real sin is their womenswear IMO. I agree that their prices are excessive, particularly if you consider that Jil Sander used to be a very “everyday” kind of brand.

 

[andrew]

I like a lot of the individual garments they produce (both at OAMC and here) but their presentation is way too cold and the their obsession with weird photography perspective shooting and styling is getting old.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

In general I've liked a lot of their menswear but this is not a winner for me.

I find it extremely affected and superfluous for a brand that is all about purity.

 

[Norden]

I know a lot of guys who wear this, it’s all over bigger European cities. It’s worn skaterish often combined with the new Marni. It kinda fits into that. Lots of younger guys.
I think for what it is, it’s too expensive.

the collection is nice, some difficult shapes here and there with some signature crafty details. They carved a very specific look for the brand, which is a feat on itself these days. But this has a very strong expiration date, it’s very anchored in this time. The (limited) colors that they use are quite nice

 

[tricotineacetat]

To me, the aspiration level of Jil Sander under these two has gone missing completely. Their playful and rather fashionable collections don't have the "investment purchase" quality about them that made Jil Sander pieces the last word in refined, timeless dressing (and merited such high price points) - Can anybody imagine still wanting to wear these clothes when everybody's moved on from looking at Phoebe Philo era Céline for inspiration?

 

[Reggie63]

Despite the departure from the clean and refined spirit of the brand, at least as far as the fashion shows are concerned, the brand still makes fantastically crisp shirts and beautifully cut coats. It is sad though that they didn't make JS the ultimate minimalist brand since it is uniquely positioned for that and there will always be a market for it.

It's confusing though that they are choosing to create the clothes that they are and price them the way they do. It would make sense to sell a pure cashmere navy blue coat for 4000 EUR. A lot of people would not hesitate to invest on such a sharply cut coat made with a beautiful fabric. Selling a wool-polyblend leopard print overcoat for 4000 EUR (Sport Coat | COATS AND JACKETS | Mens | Jil Sander Online store) , not so much - I struggle to see the point of them competing directly and pricing themselves the same with LV/Dior/Prada.

 

[Beun]

Despite the departure from the clean and refined spirit of the brand, at least as far as the fashion shows are concerned, the brand still makes fantastically crisp shirts and beautifully cut coats. It is sad though that they didn't make JS the ultimate minimalist brand since it is uniquely positioned for that and there will always be a market for it.

It's confusing though that they are choosing to create the clothes that they are and price them the way they do. It would make sense to sell a pure cashmere navy blue coat for 4000 EUR. A lot of people would not hesitate to invest on such a sharply cut coat made with a beautiful fabric. Selling a wool-polyblend leopard print overcoat for 4000 EUR (Sport Coat | COATS AND JACKETS | Mens | Jil Sander Online store) , not so much - I struggle to see the point of them competing directly and pricing themselves the same with LV/Dior/Prada.

Agreed, but I don't find their menswear that well tailored. Everything is SO boxy. I've tried quite a few of their shirts, a coat and a sweater and everything was weirdly proportioned - extremely large, but also surprisingly short...

 

[tricotineacetat]

Despite the departure from the clean and refined spirit of the brand, at least as far as the fashion shows are concerned, the brand still makes fantastically crisp shirts and beautifully cut coats. It is sad though that they didn't make JS the ultimate minimalist brand since it is uniquely positioned for that and there will always be a market for it.

It's confusing though that they are choosing to create the clothes that they are and price them the way they do. It would make sense to sell a pure cashmere navy blue coat for 4000 EUR. A lot of people would not hesitate to invest on such a sharply cut coat made with a beautiful fabric. Selling a wool-polyblend leopard print overcoat for 4000 EUR (Sport Coat | COATS AND JACKETS | Mens | Jil Sander Online store) , not so much - I struggle to see the point of them competing directly and pricing themselves the same with LV/Dior/Prada.

4000€ on a classic cashmere Chesterfield coat is a very high price for a piece like that even by most luxury goods brands and it's for a good reason it is a tough job therefor to renew the Jil Sander story in the right way - Brands like Saint Laurent or Celine will have similar wardrobe classics with better tailoring and fabrics at a lower price while at the same time having a strong brand momentum to justify such a price. The fact that Jil Sander herself chose to go a completely other direction, democratizing her vision with Uniqlo doesn't help at that challenge. It just doesn't feel right to spend 700€ and more on a plain white poplin shirt.

The only designer who really managed to find the right balance to inject just the right amount of 'fashion' into Jil Sander was Raf Simons, but with these two, I really don't see what niche this brand covers today.