I know Delphine must be fuming for the lackluster beginning of JWA's tenure. She was expecting to have a smash hit between her hands and go viral with the debut womenswear collection, however she got a semi flop between her hands:
- CHANEL debut completely overshadowed any other brand (they should have started with Couture just like Raf, remember that Raf's debut is probably the most critically acclaimed show of Dior's history apart from the OG Monsieur Dior shows, also it was a best seller among clients and got huge PR / celeb coverage)
- The debut show was undeniably underwhelming. Let's be honest, no one was expecting frayed hems denim miniskirts paired with flower prints shirts. The bags were super weak and the shoes had that very cringe look. The show was basically a preppy "Miss Dior" interpretaton by Loewe
- The PR / celeb strategy was completely wrong. Endless custom looks released before the actual debut that looked either sloppy, unfinished, verging on costumey territory being too avant garde. They should have followed the CHANEL route by getting celebs to wear MGC’s latest creations. MGC released one of her best collection ever with that final Cruise + Couture and no one even dared to wear a single piece. Furthermore, the comparison between JWA and MGC custom looks is uncanny, MGC’s are perfectly tailored and look pristine, JWA’s look sloppy, ill fitted or just plain ugly.
- The celebs ambassador roster needs a completely overhaul: Rosamund Pike is not a JWA type of woman, Charlize is nowadays more suited to Givenchy, Jisoo doesn’t bring anything to the table. The disconnection between JWA avant garde approach / aesthetic and the basic celebs is very disorienting. At least under Galliano they had Eva Green who could pull off the couture grand looks.
- Let’s not discuss about the menswear cause that’s simply atrocious. The debut collection was all over the place with that twink bucolic sportswear vibe a la Hedi Slimane x Ralph Lauren. The newly released Roadie sneaker is ugly AF.
I don't want another celeb wearing a sloppy designed and sewn custom look, I want a better, more elevated and desirable version of the Lady Dior. Under Maria we had the 95.22 at least, ok it flopped but at least the effort to tweak and alter a brand staple was there. Under JWA we have juvenile looking tiny bows attached to the charms...come on.