Jonathan Anderson - Designer, Creative Director of JW Anderson & Christian Dior | Page 69 | the Fashion Spot

Jonathan Anderson - Designer, Creative Director of JW Anderson & Christian Dior

I know Delphine must be fuming for the lackluster beginning of JWA's tenure. She was expecting to have a smash hit between her hands and go viral with the debut womenswear collection, however she got a semi flop between her hands:
- CHANEL debut completely overshadowed any other brand (they should have started with Couture just like Raf, remember that Raf's debut is probably the most critically acclaimed show of Dior's history apart from the OG Monsieur Dior shows, also it was a best seller among clients and got huge PR / celeb coverage)
- The debut show was undeniably underwhelming. Let's be honest, no one was expecting frayed hems denim miniskirts paired with flower prints shirts. The bags were super weak and the shoes had that very cringe look. The show was basically a preppy "Miss Dior" interpretaton by Loewe
- The PR / celeb strategy was completely wrong. Endless custom looks released before the actual debut that looked either sloppy, unfinished, verging on costumey territory being too avant garde. They should have followed the CHANEL route by getting celebs to wear MGC’s latest creations. MGC released one of her best collection ever with that final Cruise + Couture and no one even dared to wear a single piece. Furthermore, the comparison between JWA and MGC custom looks is uncanny, MGC’s are perfectly tailored and look pristine, JWA’s look sloppy, ill fitted or just plain ugly.
- The celebs ambassador roster needs a completely overhaul: Rosamund Pike is not a JWA type of woman, Charlize is nowadays more suited to Givenchy, Jisoo doesn’t bring anything to the table. The disconnection between JWA avant garde approach / aesthetic and the basic celebs is very disorienting. At least under Galliano they had Eva Green who could pull off the couture grand looks.
- Let’s not discuss about the menswear cause that’s simply atrocious. The debut collection was all over the place with that twink bucolic sportswear vibe a la Hedi Slimane x Ralph Lauren. The newly released Roadie sneaker is ugly AF.

I don't want another celeb wearing a sloppy designed and sewn custom look, I want a better, more elevated and desirable version of the Lady Dior. Under Maria we had the 95.22 at least, ok it flopped but at least the effort to tweak and alter a brand staple was there. Under JWA we have juvenile looking tiny bows attached to the charms...come on.
 
Does anyone know if JWA's Dior sells better than MGC's? I know fashion people don't like MGC's bland stuff but her stuff has more mass appeal than the new ones. I think to the average customers, Dior is simply a elegant and beautiful brand which JG got it with his vavavoom take, Raf got it with his clinical take(the couture debut) and even MGC got it with her mundanity(but some undeniably beautiful garments), but JWA doesn't get it probably he overthinks too much about the brand. In essence, Dior above all is about embracing feminity and beauty in a quiet traditional way as we have seen in those clients throughout the years.
 
As the caption said, I really love all the details... they are really refined, that top with the pansies is incredible, the tweed, the 3D embroideries,
It's the full silhouettes that I dread.

Also I agree, communications need to follow the change of art directiion; Bialobos and Favier maybe out.
Yes, me too. I feel that he started his design with details, but he got lost in the forest along the way as he only looked at the trees.
 
I know Delphine must be fuming for the lackluster beginning of JWA's tenure. She was expecting to have a smash hit between her hands and go viral with the debut womenswear collection, however she got a semi flop between her hands:
- CHANEL debut completely overshadowed any other brand (they should have started with Couture just like Raf, remember that Raf's debut is probably the most critically acclaimed show of Dior's history apart from the OG Monsieur Dior shows, also it was a best seller among clients and got huge PR / celeb coverage)
- The debut show was undeniably underwhelming. Let's be honest, no one was expecting frayed hems denim miniskirts paired with flower prints shirts. The bags were super weak and the shoes had that very cringe look. The show was basically a preppy "Miss Dior" interpretaton by Loewe
- The PR / celeb strategy was completely wrong. Endless custom looks released before the actual debut that looked either sloppy, unfinished, verging on costumey territory being too avant garde. They should have followed the CHANEL route by getting celebs to wear MGC’s latest creations. MGC released one of her best collection ever with that final Cruise + Couture and no one even dared to wear a single piece. Furthermore, the comparison between JWA and MGC custom looks is uncanny, MGC’s are perfectly tailored and look pristine, JWA’s look sloppy, ill fitted or just plain ugly.
- The celebs ambassador roster needs a completely overhaul: Rosamund Pike is not a JWA type of woman, Charlize is nowadays more suited to Givenchy, Jisoo doesn’t bring anything to the table. The disconnection between JWA avant garde approach / aesthetic and the basic celebs is very disorienting. At least under Galliano they had Eva Green who could pull off the couture grand looks.
- Let’s not discuss about the menswear cause that’s simply atrocious. The debut collection was all over the place with that twink bucolic sportswear vibe a la Hedi Slimane x Ralph Lauren. The newly released Roadie sneaker is ugly AF.

I don't want another celeb wearing a sloppy designed and sewn custom look, I want a better, more elevated and desirable version of the Lady Dior. Under Maria we had the 95.22 at least, ok it flopped but at least the effort to tweak and alter a brand staple was there. Under JWA we have juvenile looking tiny bows attached to the charms...come on.
I wouldn't go as far as saying fuming considering that I didn't read one media review that didn't sing his praises. I think either Delphine has drank the JWA kool aid too much or she obviously sees something we don't. Maybe most of what we see in the runway is not going to make it into stores or than the denim pieces, the rugby shirts, the knits, and that ugly shirt that only Mathilde managed to make it look elegant and attractive.

She's letting him cook and I guess so should we lol

At the end of the day all she cares about is people buying what he's proposing, so we'll see the quarter after his first collection is released in stores what those initial numbers look like. Even a point increase in how Dior is currently doing will be seen as a win for them even if we keep thinking that his collection is abysmal and not true to the codes of Dior.

Bernard and Antoine did not look happy that entire show in Oct. though so I guess there are some people in that circle who thought the same as we did.
 
Does anyone know if JWA's Dior sells better than MGC's? I know fashion people don't like MGC's bland stuff but her stuff has more mass appeal than the new ones. I think to the average customers, Dior is simply a elegant and beautiful brand which JG got it with his vavavoom take, Raf got it with his clinical take(the couture debut) and even MGC got it with her mundanity(but some undeniably beautiful garments), but JWA doesn't get it probably he overthinks too much about the brand. In essence, Dior above all is about embracing feminity and beauty in a quiet traditional way as we have seen in those clients throughout the years.
We don't know yet. We're not going to know how commercially viable his Dior is for a little bit yet, when the rollover is more complete. As it stands, the majority of RTW being sold right now is still MGC's.
 

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