Life in 3-D S/S 09

[Spike413]

Seems like the architecture that popped up last season in collections like Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein has caught on. So far, designers are playing with extreme shapes, architectural pleating and sharp lines and creating some very interesting shapes in the process. With Paris next on the schedule, I have a feeling we'll see more of this.

Calvin Klein

Christopher Kane

style.com

 

[Spike413]

Dolce and Gabbana

Gianfranco Ferre

style.com

 

[Spike413]

Giles / Marchesa

Proenza Schouler

Versace

style.com

 

[gius]

is it revealed what they are using to sculpt the material that way..
it seems quite stiff but also pliable enough to walk in

an interfacing ?
or maybe the material is advanced + actually stiff

the gianfranco ferre sleeks are delicious

 

[mishahoi]

I hope I`m not jumping the gun, but this trend seems like something that could actually be considered `new` for the current decade. These extremely exaggerated shapes trickling down to so many collections...
...in a year or so, will we see zara-ites sporting square box shapes a la Calvin Klein off their sheath dresses?
Those shoulders at Dolce Gabbana are wild-- and lots of fun.

If it is advancements in textiles that have helped perpetuate this, then I say `life in 3-D` FTW

Thanks for bringing this up, Spike!

 

[Spike413]

I think the advancements in fabric definitely has something to do with this. All you hear about lately is designers working with fabric mills to produce all different types of fabrics that are bonded or mix different natural fibers with improved synthetics to give fabric enough stiffness that they don't require interfacing. I don't know if that applies to all of these looks, but the Dolce and Gabbana pieces for example don't look like they have any additional padding or interfacing to keep them stiffened. Same with the Calvin Klein.

 

[dancorpse]

I'm just pondering over this, and Robert Cavalli mini dresses also look quite stiff in shape, they may not be comfortable to wear down the street, anyway they look so magnificent on the runway. I love this trend!

 

[luckyme]

interesting conversation, thanks for starting this spike. as an obeserver, without any measurable knowledge in textile design, I cant see how some of these aren't somewhat stiff, not necessarily rigid but at least a thicker weight that takes a form. Marchesa and Versace seem so but Calvin Klein gives me a softer feel and the folds seem to have be sewn and pressed to get the shape.

it's so cool to see this new realm opening up...

 

[CallItTreason]

This is very 1950's idea of what our modern day would be dressed like. (Minus the flying cars ) But I really dig it.

 

[Spike413]

Gareth Pugh (so surprises there)

catwalking.com via OhJane

 

[saann]

the Gianframco Ferre are definately the best ones so far

CallItTreason - I loved your comparision to the 50's idea of the future

Mishahoi this is definately something that could be considered a new trend but I wonder how well these collections will sell since they're very extreme, I can see more modified versions getting big though

 

[gius]

^ also if it is even possible for street brands to produce this kind of technique
the alternative to using high-tec fabrics / blends would be tailoring, no ... which won't allow anyone to sell a shirt like this for $25 lol . nonetheless

two by Bruno Pieters

yahoo news

 

[kiddokiddo]

I think by geometrically cutting, concave darts and pleats, and origami techniques, this look would be achieved without using hi-tech fabric..but you're right, gius, that would mean more pieces and details which never is a good idea when you're trying to mass produce and sell things at $20 dollars. And realistically, these are not really for the faint of heart anyway

 

[mishahoi]

I think by geometrically cutting, concave darts and pleats, and origami techniques, this look would be achieved without using hi-tech fabric..but you're right, gius, that would mean more pieces and details which never is a good idea when you're trying to mass produce and sell things at $20 dollars. And realistically, these are not really for the faint of heart anyway

Yes this is exactly what I was getting on to. For those who follow HC, these shapes are nothing new. However, to see them show up on the runway- in so many shows at one time, and on mainstream labels such as Dolce and Gabbana and Calvin Klein, I think is definitely a step in the direction of *possibly* seeing it trickle down to mass appeal- with some modifications of course.

 

[kiddokiddo]

^def will see watered down versions of this trend in mass for sure

organza 3-D at Lie Sang Bong

coutorture

 

[MUXU]

about time!

speaking of trickling down to mass appeal. you can already see this kinda thing going on. i saw a leather blazer at h&m mid septemeber with square edged shoulder like the ones from bruno pieters (btw which i really like). but the fit for the h&m jacket was rather bad so despite the awsome look, it was not worth the money even at a high street price point.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I wish my entire wardrobe was full of this trend.
I just love those corners. I love that artificiality. I want to look like i've been built.

More from Gianfranco Ferre

style

 

[Spike413]

Comme des Garcons

style.com

 

[kiddokiddo]

this Lanvin look adore the 3-D pleating

coutorture

 

[gius]

bump*

i was going to start a new thread
but i realise this one is basically the same idea

the thing is, i find so many sculptural, architectural designs in SKIRTS.. and full looks with tops, jackets and such, where only the -skirt- is a sculpture..

here's a few
2009...

marni resort 09

these ones are pre-fall 09-

donna karan

oscar de la renta

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