Linea

you might come across a new label by Sara Lanzi, "SL" at some store like Lift.
this fall is her second collection.

there was a capsule collection only for A/W 04 derived from Linea (materials for it was the same as Linea). this line called "Geometric" was under her charge.

the designer is young in her own label and developing, but mabe it's worth checking.
 
also this is the first season for Fattoamano, something like a cross between Linea and Sartoria/Anatomico. it could be regarded as a new Linea to which some techniques from S/A are applied. one of the stuff is almost like Anatomic which was a trial product invented by Altieri's right-hand man, Amadei. so it's practically sort of a production version of Anatomico.
 
is there really such a lucrative market for the cult labels besides japan? all these young designers are 'flocking' out to set up their own labels... seemingly all in-line with their former employers/masters... all idealism or actually financially viable? sounds like linea's folding from a previous post... just curious how these labels manage and what their business models are... if there are any.

of course i'm all for the authenticity and creative processes these labels adhere to... and would hate to see one fold after the other due to lack of understanding, small market share, etc... i'm more than curious of finding out how these designers work, their thought processes, etc.. if anyone can shed more light that would be much appreciated.

recently i got in touch with paul harnden and he sent me a short movie he made; very 'him'... and such a nice guy :smile:

also, to anyone of you that is more in the know: can you put together 'family tree' types of graph relations regarding which labels originated from which? it would be a great study looking into the base influences and where each individual label has expanded to...

lastly, i'm putting together this design event that will include fashion as well as architecture, etc for shanghai - anyone interested please contact me so we can collaborate as a team.
 
how should "family tree types of graph" be written here, surver?
 
runner said:
how should "family tree types of graph" be written here, surver?

You might have Microsoft Visio if you have Microsoft Office - it's a software for drawing flow-charts, graphs, etc. :flower:
 
thanks faust
let me check (I may wind up something like just a chronological history though)
 
surver, I wrote the whole concept behind Linea and how it developed somewhere else before this thread.
if we see all the S/S 05 collection raijin posted in this thread, we'll know the stuff was a far cry from it's original concept. the development of his ideas had long since reached the critical state and Linea had not been able to hold all of them.
it was already too different to be called Linea. then it came out as Fattomano.

although Linea is on sabatical this season, along with Sartoria, that does not mean "folding". there is a possibility of Linea's resumption still. but at the same time it can happen that it turns out to be sabatical forever. nobody, including the designer himself, knows.
from the beginning of Linea, it was a little stormy.
they presented it as a new line with no name at first, but canceled all of it, then started over, with a name of Linea and some more refinements of the garments. and each pieces used to come with it's own garment case (whose fabric was made exclusively for each case) which you can wear as clothing because one of the original Linea ideas was "the second skin" and the case represented clothing. it's like the case in the shape of jacket for a jacket etc. but the idea of the case went soon. blah, blah
btw, once there was a Tokyo branch. it was to be used for Sartoria's fitting etc, but it went before the first anniversary.
this year, exceptionally Cd/LM stuff had lots of changes as well. so, that might be signs of something new.
his instinct and drive take priority over plans.

in that way, there is always a certain uncertainty or insecurity about his work, especially about the lines other than C diem/LMaltieri where you see his intentions and motives in a more intensive and purer way. that's one of the reasons even United Arrows, which had had dealings with him over here first, have not carried those lines. they are a bit too risky for UA to take up. but that is also where some excitement (or even"fueki") comes from, keeping it away from boredom.
it seems to me that, before marketability, there is a conviction that if the words, ideas or messages inside the pieces carry something genuine, then they will get a reality and finally find a place to be. even though it can turn out idealism.

of course artisans/local industry that bring the designer's vision into existence in the most uncompromising possible way are essential.
about the other labels, maybe some of those concept/process things were mentioned here and there.
for making a new pair of shoes, an attempt to always walk barefooted in order to define what he really wants and embody it in the purest possible way. to keep wearing the same clothes for months so that....and so on.

this link is about Sartoria/Anatomic.
the reason for the suspension of it is not related to what you are feeling anxiety about, surver. the one and only artisan who is able to make a Sartoria product, Mr. M Amadei, just left the atelier (he may return. but nobody knows, as is often the case with this company).

http://www.minorityrev.com/gallary/minority.mov



I gave up the graph.


.
 
this is from the days when C diem was called "Carpe Diem".
the other thread may be the right place, but I thought it's related to surver's post.




Every work is made only of natural materials, from leathers through sterling silver for accessories, to cotton guarantee labels.
making Carpe Diem means doing a lot of little things right. we start with the best components, then we have each and every product hand cut and individually sewn.
the bottom line is that quality control is everybody's job. we take tremendous pride in our details, however hidden they might be.
we support our customer customers through years by offering a repair service on holes and tears, and by replacing hardware, zippers and buttons, no matter how old these might be.
(1998)



.
 
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/\ Johnny, are you reading this?! You should send your shirt to have them reinforce the buttons!
 
thanks alot runner :smile: been learning a great deal from your posts :smile:
 
you're welcome surver



Fattoamano
buried deerskin reversible jacket
 
That looks like a very interesting texture. Thanks for posting, Runner. :flower:
 
runner said:
this is from the days when C diem was called "Carpe Diem".
the other thread may be the right place, but I thought it's related to surver's post.





(1998)



.

Turns out what they say in that exerpt is bullsh*t. I contacted them through the shop I got my shirt in and the answer was "we don't make buttons in that colour this season". I find that really annoying. Sometimes I feel like this is all a bit emporer's new clothes.... even though it does have a lot to commend it. But if part of their appeal (and justification for the high prices) is this commitment to quality, it doesn't seem to hold up in praactice.
 
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Johnny said:
Turns out that's bullsh*t. I contacted them through the shop I got my shirt in and the answer was "we don't make buttons in that colour this season". I find that really annoying. Sometimes I feel like this is all a bit emporer's new clothes.... even though it does have a lot to commend it. But if part of their appeal (and justification for the high prices) is this commitment to quality, it doesn't seem to hold up in praactice.
:o That is ridiculous. I'm very sorry to hear that, Johnny. What colour? Aren't they the standard sterling silver ones? What are they talking about?
 
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faust said:
:o That is ridiculous. I'm very sorry to hear that, Johnny. What colour? Aren't they the standard sterling silver ones? What are they talking about?

No the shirt I have is a lighter versin of the standard leather shirt - the sleeves aren't lined for example and the leather is thinner. So the buttons are not the silver ones but are the same colour as the shirt. IT is ridiculous isn't it - it's even more ridiculous that they don't provide ONE spare button with the shirt, esp if they stop making the and esp if they are all falling off (which they were on the shirts I saw on the hooks at L'Eclaireur in September. So - they know there is a quality issue and they know that they have limited runs on the buttons but they...erm, don't care. sh*t this is annoying me as I write it!!!!!
 
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mm, I love this line! Too bad it has been put on hiatus. Maxfield's has a few pieces and so does Atelier. Aside from them, it's scarce scarce!
 

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