Louis Vuitton F/W 12.13 Paris

Nice set, ugly clothes. But I love the bags and shoes. It's funny how I'm hating most of the clothes at Paris FW and loving the accessories.
 
Well, Marc sure is the king of unflattering silhouettes and hideous hats this season. Good for him. I really *really* hoped that he would do something more elegant for Louis Vuitton, something more ladylike and Parisian. This looks like his own line but with muted colors and smaller headpieces.
 
From the Style.com review by Nicole Phelps who has the decency to mention it, I found out that the steam train has been done before by Galliano for Dior Haut Couture 1998/99. Galliano's was a lot less precious, more relaxed and fun though, with tribal influences and savages, not overwhelmed porters :lol: ...such an atmosphere. Back in those days, his clothes were GENIUS too, so much simpler, so beautifully cut.... :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E501AeThBfY&feature=related
 
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good lord how redundant is this collection? does marc think that women paris don't have access to his own marc jacobs label? this set was awsome though-it reminded me a bit of hugo.
 
WWD review
“How can we outdo ourselves?” That was the question Marc Jacobs posed to himself and his team at the outset of fall’s creative process, which commenced as soon as the grand, gilded merry-go-round of his spring show was being disassembled. A deliciously wicked tale of two Belle Epoque archrival divas came to mind. Jacobs had read the story in a Louise J. Esterhazy column from the W magazine of yore, and retold it during a preview with the disclaimer that memory might not serve exactly. The gist: When one lady — was it Sarah Bernhardt? — got wind that the other planned to arrive at an important ball wearing her jewelry collection en totale, she promptly trumped her nemesis by showing up in a plain black dress trailed by her maid, who was bedecked in all her mistresses’s bijoux. “I thought, ‘No girl will carry a bag this season,’” said Jacobs. “It will be carried for her.”

Vuitton always starts with the bag, and the originals were real luggage — steamer trunks and cases meant for elite train travelers. So at five past 10 a.m. on Wednesday, two massive steel doors parted and a full-scale locomotive, navy blue with the name Louis Vuitton emblazoned on the tank in gold lettering, pulled into the temporary LV station at Cour Carree du Louvre, blasting steam into the front row as it chugged along. It was, in Jacobs’ words, “no joke.” All aboard were elegant ladies in crumpled ponyskin hats with fluffy floral add-ons and sky-high, square-toe Mary Janes. They disembarked one by one, each greeted by her own uniformed porter to handle her fantastic bags.

Stately suitcase-inspired styles came in ostrich, mink, and purple-sequined blanket wool. There were crocodile train cases with giant Swarovski closures — taken from the crystal giant’s bathroom department because the fashion assortment wasn’t big enough. The baggage spree went from miniature to oversize, each one a spectacular display of Vuitton workmanship, whether traditional or out-of-the-box, as in the “dogs,” done in shaggy, long blonde hair dip-dyed pink and blue like a prized and pampered Maltese.

And yet the accessories did not outshine the clothes, shown mainly as an elongated tri-layered look — coats over skirts over cropped pants — the sum of which was a gracefully exaggerated bell silhouette. A craftwork focus yielded extraordinary fabrications, such as jumbo mosaic beading, a floral ponyhair “plaid” on coats and skirts, and holographic tweeds in trippy shades of green and purple. Each square of the incredible patchwork leathers had been numbered and meticulously pieced together like a puzzle. The bejeweled buttons on jackets and the cuffs of pants were actually elaborate brooches. “Just naïve, simple decorative techniques,” said Jacobs, his words not to be taken literally.

Asked if he remembers what it was like to have no money, Jacobs didn’t hesitate. “I remember very clearly,” he said, adding that the difference between then and now isn’t as vast as one might think. “You do what you can with what you’ve got to work with,” he said. “And, here, you’ve got a lot to work with.” Enough to outdo himself one more time.
 
God forbid this man ever taking the helm at Dior..:sick:
Great show, great shoes, great accessories but Im pretty sure he has a good team around him that is responsible for these aspects of the whole shebang..The clothes? Frumpy period derivatives.
 
The clothes were okay, it's hard not to like anything Downton Abbey inspired:blush:. I also got kind of excited about the level of snobbery shown with each model having her own bellboy :P.

You can tell Jacobs is catering to Mr. Arnault due to the heavy amount of bags. Arnault knows the money comes through the accessories, so each look had to have multiple bags to show off to customers. Frankly it's smart and it's something one of their biggest rivals now, Hermes, isn't doing.
 
While watching this collection the only thing I could think of was the episode of "I Love Lucy" when Lucy gives Ethel these hostess pants and Ethel preferred a toaster over them.
 

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The runway production was beautiful, the only sartorial item I liked across the board were the hats, although I don't expect to see the hats in real life but perhaps in eds. I liked most of the shoes and handbags. Re the clothes, while there were some looks I liked, for me it is a case of Marc Jacobs exporting the ugly aesthetic of his eponymous line across the pond and appropriating some ugliness from his idol Miuccia Prada and packaging it in an amazing show featuring a lot of ugly clothes.

I think the collection was full of ugly but I hesitate to give it a thumbs down because it is ugly based on my taste but I can't fault the collection for its execution, editing, proportions (although I hate that longer skirt-shorter coat look) or textiles (although I hated some of the prints, but I must say that there were also some textiles I really liked).
 
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it's so bad , but some piece can look good with decent pairing
 
This collection was so gross. The colors were gross. I thought that it was way too similar to NY, and that was the worst thing about it. But I thought this wasone of his worst collections to date.
 
The shapes and some of the patterns are rather unfortunate and most of the garments would definitely look unflattering on a mere mortal (not like most designers care anyway...). I, among others, can certainly see Prada all over this collection as well. what the eff is going on with PFW?
 
It's quite humorous with that valets carrying the bags and the exaggerated accessories and shapes. I think it's fun but it's suspiciously similar to Prada.

And for those who are "tired" of the Prada comparisons need to understand that just because you're tired it doesn't mean that it's not true.
 
The Marchesa Casati, that's what kept popping into my head while watching the video.

I'm not so sure that the clothes alone would bring her to mind, but between the clothes that recall the early inter-war period right right before the fashions associated with the twenties began to take hold, the completely bonkers and very deliberately "off" styling, the hats, the steam engine and the porters carrying all sorts of miss-matched travel bags and purses, she's the only real reference I could think of (although Mary Poppins crossed my mind briefly in some of the silhouettes). I'm also not sure that I'd really like this if it wasn't for the presentation because, quite honestly, the clothes themselves are kind of stupid looking, for the most part anyway. It's only been a month and I'm already over the whole deliberately quirky/ugly/odd thing that Marc and Miuccia seem to love so dearly.

Overall though this collection is disappointing, and the best part of the entire show -- the show itself -- isn't even an original idea. Fourteen years ago when John Galliano arranged to have a steam engine full of supermodels pull into a train station at the start of a fashion show, the showmanship must have left people's jaws on the floor. Fourteen years later, it just invites comparisons to a master showman, and on that count I doubt that Marc Jacobs could ever truly top Galliano at his best.
 
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This show doesn't remind me of Prada; it reminds me of Marc Jacobs Fall 2012. They're quite similar. The layers, the bejewelling, the big buttons, the retro feel - here the colours are more earthy, and rather than referring to the Edwardian period, this collection refers to the 1920s. But otherwise, there is a lot of overlap. Marc has always worked with layers, volume and rich fabrics, but this is just too similar to his signature collection imo; I'd like to see more differentiation.
 
Always such a good show, the bags are amazing. I was just so obsessed with S/S so i had high standards.
 

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