Louis Vuitton F/W 2021.22 Paris

[gossiping]

step back from last season! i do not like bubble hems, the pants are lovely though. the dresses at the end are ... questionable

 

[GivenchyAddict]

That being said, I feel bad for the stylists because there’s a lot of food to work with but they will be limited with the full look policies....

I don't respect the full look policy for Prada, so I will not for Louis Vuitton's one. I feel the need to take off few extra layers put by MAS .

 

[MulletProof]

Some of these jackets .... where's the drool emoji when you need it.

 

[THD96]

I don't respect the full look policy for Prada, so I will not for Louis Vuitton's one. I feel the need to take off few extra layers put by MAS .

With MAS having a comeback at VP, I can feel another Léa Seydoux disaster coming up next seasons. Can't wait tbh.

 

[WAVES]

it’s a little better (if better is the word) than the previous seasons but it’s overall... not beautiful.
the fabrics are there, the colours, the 16 year old looking models but everything (most of it), is ‘unpretty’ . its not ugly but it’s not beautiful either.

yeah a couple of nice coats, couple of boots... couple of jumpers... the leather goods of course... that’s it.
and I do think that styling wise it was toned down.

oh Nicholas...

 

[jeanclaude]

The Fornasetti prints here and there give the collection a heavy and suffocating look (and they are tacky as hell!).

The deflated balloon look, with layer after layer of oversized clothes, gives a homeless look that I don´t like at all.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I miss a bit the aspirational aspect about Nicolas' work that made his earlier tenure at Balenciaga really take off. There was really something about the Parisian woman like Emmanuelle Alt (or elsewhere, L'Wren Scott or Kate Moss) in a Balenciaga jacket with a perfectly leg-lengthening trouser that again was of course Balenciaga, that was a blueprint for women around the world wanting to look just as effortlessly cool.

But perhaps while the first 10 years of the 2000s were dominated by actual women being the most opinionated role models in the fashion industry, I am getting the feeling that designers like Nicolas and many others are talking to a much younger demography these days or at least seeking their approval more so than that of the women that can actually afford such clothes.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I'm glad to see I have not lost my mind and other members also found this show to be compelling and exciting.

Not everything works but to me it's a step in the right direction in that I see a willingness to take risks silhouette wise that I didn't perceive before...and I do love the jackets and the baggy treatment of shape, which is not at all sloppy but rather sculptural. I also liked to see touches of Gaultier's The Constructivist show, which Loic Prigent just shared, in the graphics.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The other day, one friend told me that his theory is that Nicolas does clothes for « collectionneuses ». Balenciaga was almost niche and some women devoted themselves to the silhouettes and to his work.
Vuitton is mass and it feels like he wants those true fashion lovers to find gems in the sea of bags, logos and products...

And I liked that theory. It’s not as easy to wear as SS2020 but the pleasure to have strong pieces will be the same.

I was talking about this also with a well-stocked fashion archivist who owns a lot of trophy pieces (both RTW and shoes) from some of Nicolas' most memorable Balenciaga collections and he stopped collecting once he moved over to Vuitton.

I'd be inclined to agree, thinking that few of his pieces from his Vuitton tenure have the potential to gain the same recognizability as those from his most memorable Rue Cassette shows.

 

[mistress_f]

The styling is a giant eyesore for me, and while i eventually found many desirable pieces (like this dress, heavenly!, and this fantastic look), i had to take a real close look. It does this mostly good collection a big disservice, as usual. And i must add that as a giant Fornasetti fan, they could've made it work wonderfully in so many ways, but this really wasn't it, for the most part. Disappointing, but of course i'd kill for this coat

 

[caioherrero]

Nothing good again

 

[fakeawake]

Its excellent. Very different from his previous collections. Lots of great pieces. Those parkas with the crushed metallic lining are fantastic. The boots and dress section is also very nice. I hope Nicolas has found his 'look' at LV.

 

[Nomar]

I'm not a fan of the prints but the overall textures and silhouettes are quite lovely.

 

[Lola701]

I was talking about this also with a well-stocked fashion archivist who owns a lot of trophy pieces (both RTW and shoes) from some of Nicolas' most memorable Balenciaga collections and he stopped collecting once he moved over to Vuitton.

I'd be inclined to agree, thinking that few of his pieces from his Vuitton tenure have the potential to gain the same recognizability as those from his most memorable Rue Cassette shows.

That being said, I’m not buying clothes (vintage or current) with the mindset of a collector. The end goal is to wear them...

But while his Balenciaga pretty much was the timeless and ultimate reflection of modernity, I think that his work at Vuitton, much like Alessandro Michele will represent a certain idea of audacity that we don’t necessarily attached to giants like Gucci, Vuitton or other brands.

I think Marc was about pop culture and Nicolas is about audacity. And it’s interesting to see how the financial success influence their work: Marc’s work became more pictural, gigantic and about story telling. Nicolas’s silhouettes are becoming more and more inaccessible...

I’m waiting to see what Gucci, Bottega and Balenciaga will propose but Vuitton standout for it audacity next to Chanel, Dior, Celine...etc.

 

[tricotineacetat]

That being said, I’m not buying clothes (vintage or current) with the mindset of a collector. The end goal is to wear them...

But while his Balenciaga pretty much was the timeless and ultimate reflection of modernity, I think that his work at Vuitton, much like Alessandro Michele will represent a certain idea of audacity that we don’t necessarily attached to giants like Gucci, Vuitton or other brands.

I think Marc was about pop culture and Nicolas is about audacity. And it’s interesting to see how the financial success influence their work: Marc’s work became more pictural, gigantic and about story telling. Nicolas’s silhouettes are becoming more and more inaccessible...

I’m waiting to see what Gucci, Bottega and Balenciaga will propose but Vuitton standout for it audacity next to Chanel, Dior, Celine...etc.

I think what you refer to as audacity is a notion of ugly that has been the antithesis to the fashion we knew up until the mid 2000s that was, like I said earlier, much shaped by the look of women like Kate Moss or Emmanuelle Alt, who wore this certain kind of 'Parisienne' uniform of skinny trousers with a trophy jacket and heels/boots. While this look was accessible and flattering (as in, making a woman look tall and skinny like a runway model), designers like Vetements, Alessandro Michele and also Nicolas Ghesquiere (including his last few Balenciaga shows which already seemed a departure from his earlier collections) were starting to show increasingly more challenging runway propositions that are often far from the perception of what is widely considered as 'beautiful'.

It is very much obvious to me that the criticism regarding the audacious styling seen in all of Nicolas' collections is to some extend pointless as the look is meant to communicate exactly that and the consideration if it dresses a woman in a cosmetically flattering way is not of importance (or else a lot of these pieces would not be shown as they were)... the question is, how long will this look remain in fashion or are we already at a turning point towards something else?

 

[RaisinBoy]

Styling VERY heavy handed, but love the collection

 

[tourbillions]

Some of this looks shouldn't be working but they kind of do? Even with all the layers the collection still look luxurious and desireable. A few dresses seemed like they belong to Chanel.

 

[CholoChic]

These are Galliano rules from thousands years ago

 

[Mathewthew]

I love the clothes, it gives me a the NG Balenciaga vibe, but the styling is too much.
I feel like they are trying to prove something instead of creating something desirable.
They clothes have so many details already, I don't get the styling.

 

[fakeawake]

These are Galliano rules from thousands years ago

Nicolas was always like that though.