Louis Vuitton F/W 2023.24 Paris

[gazebo]

The women who buys the very boundaries-pushing pieces aren’t women you see walking in the same streets as us like a very wise man said.

Do they walk at all? Or do they float?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I don’t believe any user of this forum thinks that people buy the whole outfit exactly as they see it on the runway. especially if it’s previously LV collections by NG. one of the best examples is how ridiculous those celebrities looked like in LV straight from the runway head to toe at the last presentation.
also, because the clothes were overall bad.

however, for many many years that was the idea and desire of creators when conceiving a collection. to have women around the world fully dressed on their clothes, owning and parading their designs. this mindset has obviously changed a little but not as much as one may think. I still see people who buy luxury brands wanting a full look like they see on the website or on a fashion magazine or on the runway. and if the look is perfect, why not?

it is true that NG is a real professional and I’m sure they will renew his position at LV and it’s more than worthy and he definitely deserves it. he’s an amazing designer, one of my favourites, despite having a few bad collections in the last years.
he has it in him, and this collection shows it perfectly.

I once saw a girl at the airport dressed head-to-toe in his LV: sunglasses, clothes, bags shoes---everything was from the runway.

She looked like a young Bridget Fonda.

I assumed she worked for them.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I thought it was pretty good and was pleasantly surprised.

It's worth watching the video. It looks alot better in motion.

 

[Bernie Flood]

It’s still the same designers at the end of the day even if the visual language is very different IMO.
Nobody, except the executives of LVMH or those who are shareholders, knows.
It’s just known that they made 20 billions of sales last year.
However, through his position at the maison, his creative control and some industry whispers (even those who works for Vuitton), it’s known that it is doing well. Doing well for a house like Vuitton is not the same as doing well for Versace for example. It’s a luxury good company first but the investment they made for Nicolas paid up. He wanted them to really develop the RTW and they installed a structure that is quite similar to what he did at Balenciaga tbh.
When your bosses are happy, you can collaborate with an artist to install a weird installation, that probably only you are excited about, inside le Musée d’Orsay.

In my wild conclusion, the last time The Arnault and LVMH is this happy was when John Galliano started putting Dior on the map with his early 2000’s collections that was indeed a best seller

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It’s still the same designers at the end of the day even if the visual language is very different IMO.
Nobody, except the executives of LVMH or those who are shareholders, knows.
It’s just known that they made 20 billions of sales last year.
However, through his position at the maison, his creative control and some industry whispers (even those who works for Vuitton), it’s known that it is doing well. Doing well for a house like Vuitton is not the same as doing well for Versace for example. It’s a luxury good company first but the investment they made for Nicolas paid up. He wanted them to really develop the RTW and they installed a structure that is quite similar to what he did at Balenciaga tbh.
When your bosses are happy, you can collaborate with an artist to install a weird installation, that probably only you are excited about, inside le Musée d’Orsay.

One thing that I greatly appreciate about Ghesquire's Vuitton is that you can see his hand and impact on every single product on the women's side.

Irregardless of of how well his ready-to-wear sells, you can go to any bread and butter store in middle America and you can see he's touched every product.

I know many of you complain about the heaviness and overworked nature of his clothes, I don't particularly like it either, but that sensibility translates really well to bags and accessories.

 

[Lola701]

In my wild conclusion, the last time The Arnault and LVMH is this happy was when John Galliano started putting Dior on the map with his early 2000’s collections that was indeed a best seller

Marc Jacobs and Hedi Slimane made them happy too. The rise of LVMH in the early 00’s was particularly interesting. Marc designed only the runway shows collections and it was barely produced or available (when it was, there was a real frenzy to get them) but they had an impact that trickled down on all categories. It was quite interesting.
Galliano and Slimane really revolutionized Dior. A level of responsability and power (he was involved in everything) never seen again at Dior.

One thing that I greatly appreciate about Ghesquire's Vuitton is that you can see his hand and impact on every single product on the women's side.

Irregardless of of how well his ready-to-wear sells, you can go to any bread and butter store in middle America and you can see he's touched every product.

I know many of you complain about the heaviness and overworked nature of his clothes, I don't particularly like it either, but that sensibility translates really well to bags and accessories.

That’s what I like too.
I wasn’t that much of a Vuitton person. I loved Marc’s bags because they weren’t the classics with logos. He did beautiful bags but everything was seasonal.
Beyond the runway show, there’s a real wardrobe approach to Nicolas’s work that I love. Most of the bags him and his team have designed are now part of the permanent collection and the commercial collections does reminds me a lot of his Balenciaga’s capsules. They even often re-release some pieces from his Balenciaga days. They did last year a nautical capsule with the pants and shorts of the SS2005 collection. It’s a real proposition…
Tbh, while I ordered two pieces from the current SS collection, I was surprised to learn and see how much of it was produced. There are waiting lists for the big bags but I was very surprised that those big zippers made it into production.

The unity is definitely great. And while they do sell a lot of the capsules logo oriented RTW pieces, I like that he is not a prisoner of that. He is pragmatic too.

 

[Bernie Flood]

Marc Jacobs and Hedi Slimane made them happy too. The rise of LVMH in the early 00’s was particularly interesting. Marc designed only the runway shows collections and it was barely produced or available (when it was, there was a real frenzy to get them) but they had an impact that trickled down on all categories. It was quite interesting.
Galliano and Slimane really revolutionized Dior. A level of responsability and power (he was involved in everything) never seen again at Dior.



That’s what I like too.
I wasn’t that much of a Vuitton person. I loved Marc’s bags because they weren’t the classics with logos. He did beautiful bags but everything was seasonal.
Beyond the runway show, there’s a real wardrobe approach to Nicolas’s work that I love. Most of the bags him and his team have designed are now part of the permanent collection and the commercial collections does reminds me a lot of his Balenciaga’s capsules. They even often re-release some pieces from his Balenciaga days. They did last year a nautical capsule with the pants and shorts of the SS2005 collection. It’s a real proposition…
Tbh, while I ordered two pieces from the current SS collection, I was surprised to learn and see how much of it was produced. There are waiting lists for the big bags but I was very surprised that those big zippers made it into production.

The unity is definitely great. And while they do sell a lot of the capsules logo oriented RTW pieces, I like that he is not a prisoner of that. He is pragmatic too.

But Marc Jacobs Vuitton clothes really makes no impact…
Though I’m imagining that Arnault is trying to make LV a Prada like brand since Prada’s clothes can stand by itself.

 

[Drusilla_]

But Marc Jacobs Vuitton clothes really makes no impact…

That's because LV was/is primarily a bag brand with some bonus clothes. The label was never about the clothes, it was about bags/accessories first.

And he still did some great collections with those constraints, meanwhile his clothes under his own label basically shaped the decade from 2003 onwards. Nicolas's brief, just as Marc's was, is to design bags that sell - and they delivered.

 

[Lola701]

But Marc Jacobs Vuitton clothes really makes no impact…
Though I’m imagining that Arnault is trying to make LV a Prada like brand since Prada’s clothes can stand by itself.

But in a way. Vuitton clothes will never stand by themselves because they are attached to the creative director in a way, no matter how Nicolas tries to instill an identity to it.

With Marc, no season looked-a-like. I think the precollections designed by Julie de Libran and Peter Copping had more of a handwriting than the main collections…

But maybe you have a point because when I think about Marc clothes at Vuitton, even those I own, I’m thinking about shows or moments, not pieces. It was a great moment almost in a pop culture way rather than « fashion ». I have 4 collections I absolutely adore from his time at Vuitton… But as a whole I feel like it was a big spectacle.

Looking back It’s almost bittersweet for Marc. He has created a body work that doesn’t rely on clothes in a way…

But as @Drusilla_ said, Vuitton was a different brand under Yves Carcelle than what it became during Michael Burke/Delphine Arnault. It has a more lifestyle approach now…
Back then they were just happy to have the impact of MJ shows to sell the classic Alma, Keepall and Lockit. Under Nicolas, the goal is different…

 

[WAVES]

some of Marc collections for LV were INCREDIBLE people were just not ready for it because LV carried the stigma of being an accessories brand.

wearing LV clothes was just ‘OK good’ whereas wearing the latest LV bag was WOW.
it has changed a lot of course. change that happened when they called a big one - NG - to replace Jacobs. the suits were extremely strategic/ smart with this.

I’m happy Nicholas took a different turn this last collection and I hope he goes that way.