Louis Vuitton F/W 2023.24 Paris

[THD96]

Let be realistic, even if he has a close relationship with the Arnault, there is no way he staying for more than 10 years at LV (Bernard crown jewel) if nobody buy his clothes. He always delivered what he was asked.

Anyways, the LV ambassadors are in good hands for the Fall/Winter season.

Beside some occasional custom-made, I always love the fact that he never care if the LV ambassadors look good in his clothes or not, it's not his job to design a red carpet collection. His job is to deliver fashion that only a certain people with style can pull off (I can think of a few people like Marina Fois, MAS or Delphine, etc...). And if those actress want something safe on the RC then they should think twice before signing that contract. I mean they always have Elie Saab tho lol.

 

[Ruito]

wow so many bad ideias into one collection

 

[Ruito]

There are clothes to be worn in the future except in the future nobody will be dressing them

 

[Ruito]

Jokes stuff, there's some good looks in here, I was happy for a moment

 

[Ruito]

At this point though, we should all be grateful we have Nicolas Ghesquière as creative director of the women's collections because the men now have to deal with Pharrell...

 

[Norden]

This is a very interesting collection. I feel very obvious connections to his balenciaga years, the shape language is more formalist and tied to design as a form instead of reference. The references that are there are very filtered. I see flecks of furniture. Britishness, the street and a really diverse silhouette.

I welcome the simplicity of the looks, to overcrowd such a designed collection would be foolish, for me it could even be more minimal.

Some looks work better than others, look 4 is fantastic. It could be translated to really beautiful merch.

what a weird collection. But good to see experiment! We miss it these days.

 

[Blaiseybabey]

at least he's true to what he does. Not a fan of all these silhouettes but- hey! - he researches stuff, tries it out. Coats are great. And the bags were quite fun but yet not Harris Reed's Nina Ricci fun

 

[Lola701]

Let be realistic, even if he has a close relationship with the Arnault, there is no way he staying for more than 10 years at LV (Bernard crown jewel) if nobody buy his clothes. He always delivered what he was asked.

I think people have this fake perception that people buy the whole outfit and wears it like it is. People buy pieces…And there’s the runway pieces, the commercial version of those pieces and then the capsules for a more wardrobe approach.
The women who buys the very boundaries-pushing pieces aren’t women you see walking in the same streets as us like a very wise man said.
I remember I was surprised to learn that the extravagant tshirts from the collection showed at La Samaritaine were produced and sold.
Even if Ghesquiere’s clothes alone represents 15/20% of sales, we are talking about a brand that made 20 Billions last year.

Nicolas is good because from a fashion pov, he keeps the conversation going. I like that he is not playing safe.
They sales a ton of bags and he is unproblematic. Thank god they have him and JW Anderson in the group…

 

[Joromana]

The shoes are superb!
But I'm not seeing what everyone else is.... Isn't this just 'good' because we've come to expect LV to be so bad? It has a few hits here and there but overall... It isn't as exciting as I'm seeing some of the comments make it out to be, in my opinion.

 

[WAVES]

I don’t believe any user of this forum thinks that people buy the whole outfit exactly as they see it on the runway. especially if it’s previously LV collections by NG. one of the best examples is how ridiculous those celebrities looked like in LV straight from the runway head to toe at the last presentation.
also, because the clothes were overall bad.

however, for many many years that was the idea and desire of creators when conceiving a collection. to have women around the world fully dressed on their clothes, owning and parading their designs. this mindset has obviously changed a little but not as much as one may think. I still see people who buy luxury brands wanting a full look like they see on the website or on a fashion magazine or on the runway. and if the look is perfect, why not?

it is true that NG is a real professional and I’m sure they will renew his position at LV and it’s more than worthy and he definitely deserves it. he’s an amazing designer, one of my favourites, despite having a few bad collections in the last years.
he has it in him, and this collection shows it perfectly.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

*At least* there is some evidence of softness here, unlike the cardboard-looking, utterly unflattering, boxy LV outfits he's been churning out for much too long.

 

[jeanclaude]

It is very good he likes experimenting and giving us new proposals (he is truly someone who likes making clothes...unlike Demna).

BUT...his experiments at Balenciaga were desirable, beautiful and wearable (for the most part). And I cannot find all that here.

 

[Fiercification]

A challenging collection that I didn't really like on first view, but is growing on me now. I think the set design threw me off initially.

I feel like there's not merely play with silhouette but also different textures and materials? I mean I'm no expert on that side of things, but that's what seems apparent from the runway photos.

I like the look with a waistcoat and oversized dickie and Mona's coat/jacket in particular. The eyewear feels a little gimmicky/2007 but I dig it.

As usual I'm just grateful for NG pushing the fashion conversation forward. I pretty much always enjoy his collections these days, even if I still can't really stomach some of the stuff he was putting out in 2015-17.

 

[FashionFanatico]

he's one of the few nowadays who we can call a visionary of fashion.

no matter if you love, sometimes like or hate his clothes.

it's astounding that he's still challenge himself, his team (and us!) every season again and again.

I love his work ethic and restless creativity so much.

 

[Bernie Flood]

This is just Balenciaga for LV.

Hows the revenue of the LV clothing line?!

 

[disco54]

Dull and stiff clothes, the bags and shoes are the only highlight anyways on and off the runway.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The dress on Rianne I like a lot. And the ruched leather boots are kinda cool in that off way.

But I don't know about the rest of this. Every now and then they show a collection that looks and kind of feels hastily made. This is one of them. It's like all the accessories came in and they went "crap, gotta get the clothes with these now" with them stitching things together and going "yeah that'll work why not, the suits will find something commercial within this".

 

[Drusilla_]

A challenging collection that I didn't really like on first view, but is growing on me now. I think the set design threw me off initially.

I feel like there's not merely play with silhouette but also different textures and materials? I mean I'm no expert on that side of things, but that's what seems apparent from the runway photos.

I like the look with a waistcoat and oversized dickie and Mona's coat/jacket in particular. The eyewear feels a little gimmicky/2007 but I dig it.

As usual I'm just grateful for NG pushing the fashion conversation forward. I pretty much always enjoy his collections these days, even if I still can't really stomach some of the stuff he was putting out in 2015-17.

I may be alone in this but I loved his pandemic collections, all the way into A/W 2022-23 (and he still has the power to move needles and cause a ripple effect in the fashion industry, in his own way - anyone else clocked how many brands are putting neckties on the runway this season? McQueen, Dior, Valentino and that's just the ones I remember). I suspect something similar might happen with those skinny belts this time and the way they're tied.

 

[Lola701]

This is just Balenciaga for LV.

Hows the revenue of the LV clothing line?!

It’s still the same designers at the end of the day even if the visual language is very different IMO.
Nobody, except the executives of LVMH or those who are shareholders, knows.
It’s just known that they made 20 billions of sales last year.
However, through his position at the maison, his creative control and some industry whispers (even those who works for Vuitton), it’s known that it is doing well. Doing well for a house like Vuitton is not the same as doing well for Versace for example. It’s a luxury good company first but the investment they made for Nicolas paid up. He wanted them to really develop the RTW and they installed a structure that is quite similar to what he did at Balenciaga tbh.
When your bosses are happy, you can collaborate with an artist to install a weird installation, that probably only you are excited about, inside le Musée d’Orsay.

 

[Kennnnn]

I was just looking at the Phil Oh photos on Vogue, of the people who attended the show dressed head to toe in LV. They looked utterly ridiculous.