Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2014 Paris

[Prairie]

style

 

[nita-karoliina]

I love those coats and jackets!

 

[disco54]

wonderful! Finally flattering pants!

 

[Prairie]

style

 

[Prairie]

style

 

[Flea]

finally~!!!! this is what i call "fashion show"...

 

[Miss Dalloway]

This is what Raf at Dior tried but failed! Experimentation with fabrics, silhouettes, and proportions, except its so much better executed here.

 

[Moofins]

I'm digging the shoulder cleavage.

 

[Vitamine W]

Wow, this came out of nowhere. Very impressive and cohesive, even a bit sexy here and there. Agree with MissDalloway, would have loved to see this at Dior!

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I really like looks #8, 12 and 16 for the layering as well as the dress in #26, but some of the layering doesn't work imo, and I can't decide on the sleeves without shoulders; I like the idea but don't think the execution always works here (best in #27 and 28 with the pinstripes and bejewelling).

 

[Morphe]

Ahahahahaha this is $hit. Terribly executed, without a concept and a tacky mess.

 

[jeanclaude]

For me, this is only Margiela, because the tag says it so. I don´t see anything from the old Martin Margiela, not his style; nor his conceptuality.

 

[masquerade]

I don't know if I am looking at the same collection that some of you are. This is alright, nothing special, certainly not as good as Dior. I agree with jeanclaude, I think I would like this a lot more if it was under another name. It is not Margiela at all.

 

[Scott]

i dunno i have to say i really like that she's trying to utilise and interpret the archives while still finding a new direction for the house. is it preferable to what MM did himself? not at all....but no one can do true MMM and get away with that except for the man himself and sadly he's not here. also,it's pretty evident that rosso and those running the house now are trying to push it into a commercial territory which is probably why it looks more generic. but i'm afraid MMM will never be the same as it was.....trust me i've had to come to those terms myself.

 

[mspieller]

For me, this is only Margiela, because the tag says it so. I don´t see anything from the old Martin Margiela, not his style; nor his conceptuality.

agree..

 

[elle_gb]

It's not the best but still great clothes. Mostly are wearable especially the jackets.

 

[Bernadette]

This circus-inspired collection was the equivalent of walking a tightrope a few feet off the ground — rather safe yet still a balancing act between commercial imperatives and the conceptual legacy of the founder, who made his last disappearing act in 2009.

Strip away the replica big-top items — bedazzled cabaret corsets, trapeze trousers and a tattered ringleader jacket — and this Maison Martin Margiela show was mainly about tailoring inspired by men’s wear and then dissected.

Tuniclike jackets were sliced open in the back and fastened loosely with black ribbons, as were a series of sparkly vests and bustier dresses. A pinstriped blazer, sheared off at the bosom and without sleeves, became an unusual shoulder-baring tunic held up by overall-like straps.

Suits sleeves, in fact, became free-floating elements lassoed to the neck with ribbons. A handsome black tailcoat, among the best looks in the show, came without sleeves and was paired with terrific trousers. On tuxedo pants, contrasting harlequin shapes replaced satin stripes.

Some of the eveningwear was dead simple and striking, particularly the strapless evening columns in peach satin or black chiffon, their tops cinched with black elastic. They didn’t need any circus ballyhoo.

Source: style.com

 

[davidhe]

The strapped sleeves are definitely in homage to Martin Margiela's previous work. The beading work reminds me of the house' previous haute couture collections.

I would say the house is now more commercial in its strategy nowadays, where they show you how the fashion is made: debut in haute couture and then trickled down to ready to wear.

 

[sore]

There actually were a few very good collections after MM himself left.
This is not a bad collection, but I really don't get why they try to sell it under the name of Maison Martin Margiela. It has rien à voir, why not just bury the brand altogether?
(I mean, it's not as if the typical Margiela customer from the old days would buy something like this anyway.)

 

[MMVV]

Carry Over

I think it's very MMM. And you know Why? because it's just copy of Martin's work.
Circus cabaret one in FW 06
Ribbon in the back: Done from A/W 89 To A/W91 Collection
Half Dress Stitched: Done in The Artisanal collection years Ago
Trench As dress: Done while Martin was working for Gaultier. GIBO in 87
Back to Front Jacket: Done it F/W 94

I understand when you have to take some Cult pieces for Collaboration For H&M for exemple, But i don't see the point wasting money taking designers like Matthieu Blazy And Ivana Omazic, when you just have to go to the Archive to reproduce garnment.