Marc Jacobs F/W 2016.17 New York

gazebo

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Marc Jacobs F/W 2016.17 New York










vogue.com
 
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Not gonna lie, whether you like the show or not it was a feast for the eyes.
From the hair to the makeup to the music (?) to the costumes, a spectacle to watch.
 









vogue.com
 
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A mix of Louis Vuitton Fall 2012/Marc Jacobs Fall 2012/Louis Vuitton Spring 2014/Marc Jacobs Fall 2015. It's almost like the maniacal, opulent woman from Fall 2015 has fallen on hard times. What I loved about last season was how wildly varied each look was; this all just sorted of blended together and grew monotonous.
 
I'm sorry but most of this is tragic. there are some nice, even beautiful, pieces here and there, especially the outerwear and the most put together dresses towards the end - but a lot of it felt so try hard and out of place, from the ridiculously bad footwear to the styling. Especially the first part felt like this:

oppoaq.gif

giphy.com

in fashion form.
 
I think there are beautiful hints of Galliano Margiela's, Vetements and Comme des Garçons, too many references, yeah, but still one of the best show of the season. Granted the presentation is a bit messy but the ideas are overflowing and the construction and materials are exquisite. This is the fashion I miss these days, real fashion.
 
My first impression of this was his famous Fall 2005 collection with those oddball, oversized proportions and generally dark color palette. There are also, as others have mentioned, hints of other collections he's done -- Vuitton Fall 2005, Vuitton Fall 2011, his own Fall 2012 and Spring 2014. There's also plenty of Rei and Yohji in there both in the scale and the shapes.

I'm sure there are gonna be the inevitable (and tiresome) comparisons to Vetements because apparently that brand is single-handedly responsible for everything Fashion has ever done, but I do see quite a bit of Marc's own extensive history in this. And if nothing else, thank GOD someone out there remembers that fashion needs to be something more than just a parade of overpriced clothing on sad looking little girls.
 
This is a very MJ collection. I have been following his work for almost 15 years online. This is has many elements of his past shows. I like this very much.
 
I don't see anything Vetements about it. It's not like they have invented that look (Marc was doing that 10 years ago).
Marc is the best DJ of fashion. He has always been consistent about his influences (Miuccia, Martin Margiela, Yohji, CDG). The difference between him and the others is that he is talented enough to make it his own.

This is totally MJ: slightly macabre but festive, a bit perverse but demure. The clothes moved beautifully and it was very powerful.
Some silhouettes are quite MiuMiu-ish (from the spring 2016).
The puffer on Mica, the look on Julia Nobis and the dress on Binx are just to die for!

Everything looks so expensive, precious and detailed that i have a much harder time trying to imagine which pieces will have lower prices. It looks less High/Low than the spring one.
 
What can I say? I loved it.
At first, I though it was kind of excesive, but more I see it, more I like it.
 
Haha.. why oh why have you not used where it belongs (Hedi Slimane threads)..

lol well, that's default hedi, if i had any photoshop skills i'd put hedi's face on steve's.... but it was truly the first thing that came into my mind when watching the first part of the collection
 
I mean, this amazing. It's just literally amazing. These punk rock, bombed out Victorian chicks just had me at first stomp out. I haven't had that giddy, shiver of excitement run down my spine since who knows when. This delivered on all accounts.
 
I'm kind of into it. Certainly one of those collections that's bound to divide opinion.

The footwear gives me stress.
 
He knows how to put on a show with clothes alone, I'll give him that.

...I just can't take this seriously though. And I wanted to... because I can glimpse how breathtaking it would be if he dialed it down a notch. So many gorgeous elements.

Not mad though, still one of the top 3 of the week.
 
His design has become so flat this season. See how narrow everyone is in motion. And I don't think that's intended. Eye catching theme and ravishing outcomes nonetheless.
 

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