Marc Jacobs F/W 2019.20 New York

[TheoG]

nowfashion.com & vogue.com

 

[dior_couture1245]

Very dull.

Alessandro's Gucci, Demna's Balenciaga and Pierpaolo's Valentino are all I see here.

Marc used to have so much to say about everything, and all of it was pushed through into his clothes. I mean...his collections really were so potent. Exploding with ideas...clever, hilarious, poignant, smart....you just don't get that from him work now. It's a shame.

I was recently going through old style.com videos of his shows from the 2006-2014 era. Such strong work both at his own label and at LV. Not only strong, but SO memorable it's insane - I can recall almost every detail of his Fall 2006 Grunge revival, or every second of his Spring 2008 Dali extravaganza (including the 3hr delay!), or the absolutely infectious Spring 2009 lurex fantasia, or the eerie Fall 2013 sepia-toned sun. I could go on and on. They were all such MOMENTS.

I'm afraid since his dreadlock fiasco (which was an absolutely ridiculous manufactured outrage), the work has never been the same. I feel in some ways, it broke his spirit. Maybe I'm just projecting that hypothesis on him. Who knows.

But the last several collections...I'm just not sure what these clothes are supposed to say? Do they mean anything? I'm certainly not getting any ideas from them...whether they be surprising ideas about how women could dress, or interesting comments on culture, or just simply capturing an attitude that feels now. And these were all things that Marc could do almost reflexively at one point not that long ago.

 

[TheoG]

vogue.com

 

[TheoG]

vogue.com

 

[perhydrol]

It's a mess. You have everything from a very basic Prada look to the big volumes of Valentino with some Balenciaga here and there, both by Demna and Cristobal. There's some Chanel, Rochas and Dior, too. But it doesn't make any sense as a collection, it's just too eclectic with no editing and as a result there's no message. At least the ghost of Montana is gone but I still don't understand how collections like this one can save Marc's business.

 

[Wintergreen]

Holy crap, Christy Turlington runway comeback! When was the last time she had walked a show? 1993? I wasn't even born yet lol

Don't care for the collection at all but that dress on Adut looks stunning.

 

[Lola701]

Beautiful production...Marc is the best at « no budget Drama ».

The collection is fine. It’s not terrible but it doesn’t really change or add anything. It’s just a fine collection supported by a stellar cast and a fantastic production.

There are just too many elements there and even if most of them comes from Marc’s previous work, the fact that he is putting himself in the Valentino conversation of Glamour and volumes is a bit weird.

There’s something unresolved about this.
I wish that for the next season, he goes back to normal shapes and maybe something less grandiose.

The feathers dresses are fantastic. I hope to see one of them at the Oscars!

Now let’s talk about the cast! That was A CAST. It’s good to see 90´s girls that we haven’t seen that much before.
And Christy! Since 1994!
Her last season was Couture FW 1994!

Well done Marc!

 

[ghostwriter10549]

Its a good collection if you are only targeting your friends that are going to the Met Gala this year. This collection actually looks perfectly designed for that event, its weird.

I dont think that I can call this looks of 'oversized look', this is more like a 'excess of fabric'. I really like the tamed looks like this one, and this dress is the real star of the show, stunning!
The rest is weirdly executed, unflattering and sometimes ugly. Sorry Marc, maybe next time..

 

[dfl-001]

This doesn't look like MJ at all.

This looks dated, and unfocused dated at that.​

Some trends that need to die a fast death are; oversized whatever, see-through everything and arm sleeves that drop past the hand to the knee.

 

[Norden]

I think the coats are fantastic and highly covetable. The sweater over the skirt is basic, but just right in the context. It’s moments like that that could have made this show. The high camp dresses are a miss to my taste. Also he should do more insane accessories.

 

[whippie]

A few looks from Prada, a few from Giorgio Armani, Pier Paolo, a little Giambattista Valli... but most all what I see is Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2010.

 

[dodencebt]

Any vintage store looks more current than this mess.

 

[blusheels]

Actually this show just sums up how bad and uninspiring this season at NYFW was...

 

[Lola701]

I think the coats are fantastic and highly covetable. The sweater over the skirt is basic, but just right in the context. It’s moments like that that could have made this show. The high camp dresses are a miss to my taste. Also he should do more insane accessories.

The sweater over the skirt is actually my favorite look of the show and my favorite look from NYC so far.
It reminds me so much of chubby Marc with the glasses and the Stan Smith.

I love how normal and yet quite fresh it looks. The proportions are right and the fabrics are surely great. This is what I might buy from this show...with the suit after!

 

[AD011620]

It's beautiful but lacks distinctiveness...
but I forgive him because he convinced Christy to walk for him <3

 

[Scotty]

Random hideous mess. Hate the chicken-fest dresses.

 

[Ruito]

I think it's a superb collection!

 

[StoneSkipper]

It's weird, I love all of these looks separately, but I don't like this as a collection. There's a few looks that I'm head over heels with - the wintergreen-ish sparkly dress on Bente, the mint green wrap coat on Mayowa followed by the yellow off-the-shoulder dress on Adut, and the red wrap coat on Grace followed by the mint green dress on Sara Grace... those are all stunning, some of the best pieces of the season, and I wish he'd gone in that direction for the rest of the collection.

 

[TheoG]

It's weird, I love all of these looks separately, but I don't like this as a collection. There's a few looks that I'm head over heels with - the wintergreen-ish sparkly dress on Bente, the mint green wrap coat on Mayowa followed by the yellow off-the-shoulder dress on Adut, and the red wrap coat on Grace followed by the mint green dress on Sara Grace... those are all stunning, some of the best pieces of the season, and I wish he'd gone in that direction for the rest of the collection.

I feel the same. There's ton that I like, particularly the looks you highlighted. The look on Sara was one of favorites this week. It was all beautifully made.

But I feel for Marc, I don't think he knows exactly where he fits in.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

nice to see christy again