Marc Jacobs S/S 08 NYC

[ilaughead]

I find it strange that they say just the fabrics are made in Italy - when a great deal of his clothing is actually manufactured in Italy too. A lot of the Marc by Marc Jacobs stuff is manufactured in Poland and Europe. As I understand it, the buyer's showroom is in Milan, the shoe, knitwear and accessory factories in Italy also. Marc forget New York, show in Paris!

I think they were talking about the fabrics in particular because the sample studio where they make the clothes for the show is in New York.

 

[spottie]

As for the fabrics being Italian made as an excuse for MJ's lateness, is he implying that none of the other designers had the same issue? I think not! He's being *such* a primadonna!

 

[kuba01]

To those people that don't understand this collection, I think Sally Singer puts it nicely:

"(Marc Jacob's) idea of luxury that is beyond what needs to work on the street"

I truly believe this - Marc is trying to create opulence, sexiness, luxury etc etc in his collections - but in a completely different, unique and surrealist manner.

It might not be that wearable, but its moving fashion foward - and we need that!

If you wanted wearability in Marc's clothes, you'd go to Marc by Marc Jacobs

 

[Guessgirl96]

I don't understand why everyone hates this. I don't love all of it but as a whole I do like it.

 

[Zazie]

Pastry, You nailed it - I think Cathy Horyn *needs* to be in denial because as a good friend of MJ no doubt, it would contradict her journalistic integrity to "see" it and not critique it. It's one thing to be indignant at Century21 and another to swipe at a fashion heavyweight like MJ. I think some of the pieces are really nice, very wearable interpretations of the "surrealist" over-the-top CdG, but most, like the trompe l'oeil underwear dresses are stupid and hideously cut. I wish for his sake that he'd rip off more down-to-earth designers like Marni, Prada or the new Chloe - it's simply technically too difficult to rip off the Martin Margiela, CdG or Yohji Yamamoto, the proportions, cut, etc. need to be impeccable.

I don't buy MJ simply because at these prices, he simply isn't worth it. I'd only pay H&M prices for "interpretations", if you'd know what I mean.

But I agree completely that the other NYFW shows are mostly worse, with the exceptions of Zero, etc.

 

[Zazie]

To be honest, I don't like the past 2 Cdg collections because of the "post-modern", "witty" quotations and dada-ist juxtaposition design "concept" - very old 80s hat-trick.

 

[Caffeine]

CDG etc did deconstruction doesn't mean Marc can't do it. If you go to his stores every season, you should have seen deconstructed items here and there in each season and his work was developing secretly (those items were never shown on runway). Trust me, it's too easy to do deconstruction. Take a look at Frank Gehry rip-offs...it's really easy! He doesn't need to do this every season gradually. If he wants to copy, he can just do it without those hassle. But Marc has been developing his own deconstruction for years and that's MARC's OWN.
For the people who complain about the delay...how come Louis Vuitton is never that late? I think that the delivery time IS an issue especially when Marc presents more looks and accessories than other NYC designers. The August break is a killer and I just hope that he can get one more week next time. Just one week!

 

[gius]

yes yes if you mean CDG did not invent deconstruction
i wholeheartedly agree

 

[Zazie]

Hmmm....I definitely didn't think of his plagiarism in terms of "deconstruction" (which has been done by the Japanese since the 80s and most of the Belgiums) but the concept of "surrealism/dada-ism" in the form of parts of various identifiable garments haphazardly fused together, which is blatantly CdG from 2 seasons back. The small bag/big bag thing is cute though, and at least not something I remember from that particular CdG collection.

 

[chloehandbags]

Chloehandbags:

It actually WAS at the end for many, many years. I believe it changed when Helmut Lang moved his collection to NY.

Really? Sorry, I didn't know that.

Well, maybe that order should be reestablished, then?

It seems like the logical solution, doesn't it?

 

[spottie]

I *thought* the reason NY moved up their fashion week was because the Euros accused NY of copying them. So NY said (in effect), "We'll show you...", and decided to show before the Euros.

 

[chloehandbags]

To those people that don't understand this collection, I think Sally Singer puts it nicely:

"(Marc Jacob's) idea of luxury that is beyond what needs to work on the street"

I truly believe this - Marc is trying to create opulence, sexiness, luxury etc etc in his collections - but in a completely different, unique and surrealist manner.

It might not be that wearable, but its moving fashion foward - and we need that!

If you wanted wearability in Marc's clothes, you'd go to Marc by Marc Jacobs

I think it's very interesting that there appears to be a general assumption that people who don't like this collection, don't understand it.

Wasn't that also the scoundrels' implication, if members of the crowd were honest enough to say they couldn't see the Emperor's New Clothes?! That only the ignorant and the incompetent wouldn't be able to see them?


http://deoxy.org/emperors.htm


As Marc mentioned the Emperor's New Clothes reference, himself, surely it could be argued that the fashion journalists are being tested for their honesty and integrity and that only the ones who can't see the merits in the collection have passed the test?

In which case, the ones who coo and fawn over its merits are the ones who don't understand it.

Of course, where that leaves the saleability of a collection like that, is a very good question; but maybe it would be an interesting collection to collect, if only for its novelty value?

 

[chloehandbags]

I *thought* the reason NY moved up their fashion week was because the Euros accused NY of copying them. So NY said (in effect), "We'll show you...", and decided to show before the Euros.

In which case, as most of the NY designers are now being accused of copying last season's European collections; they might as well move it back again, mightn't they?!

 

[Zazie]

In which case, as most of the NY designers are now being accused of copying last season's European collections; they might as well move it back again, mightn't they?!

Aww...to be fair to the NY designers, I'm sure there are many good ones who have not been featured by the NY media and the likes of Anna Wintour. Unfortunately, the media darlings like Ralph Lauren, DvF, Marc Jacobs and Zac Posen get to define what NY fashion is about.

 

[chloehandbags]

^ I'm not saying, for one minute, that there aren't any good NY designers, or that they all copy; but as most of them get accused of it anyway, whether they show before or after Europe, why not make their lives easier?

 

[fashionista-ta]

Which is why I was surprised that Cathy Horyn failed to see any CDG connection at all. She said so herself.

"And I did not, at least in this Jacobs, see a reference to the last Comme des Garcons show, apart from the big hair. Tell me I’m wrong, but I didn’t see it."

I really don't get the big deal, but I just want to say that Marc Jacobs isn't neutral or original at all. This man is simply really good at picking up on the latest thing. He feels the pulse before many others in the western world do.

Everyone is doing monochrome? I'll do florals.
Everyone's dresses have cute detail and sleeves? I'll create some slip dresses; very 90's Prada.
Everyone's tops are long? I think i'll make belly tops.
So, again, as Zazie said, the DNA or formula behind his collections is quite predictable and transparent.

Furthermore, he's really good at creating desirable items. But you do know what happens to "hot" items and impulse buys...you get tired of them really fast and end up looking like a fool.

Looks like Cathy and Zazie are talking about different CdG seasons ...

I don't think that's fair to Marc ... it's not quite that simple. What he did with the gothic collection, what he did last fall ... that's far more complex and far from "quite predictable." If it were that easy, everyone would be doing it ... Knowing "what's next" is nothing to sneeze at ... plenty of people would love to be able to do that & can't.

 

[MUXU]

^i always thought there were meetings and "guide" books to tell the previliged designers what the up and coming trends are...something like the G8 meetings

anyways, i dont feel like commenting on this collection because i think im bored with the clothes. but wicked kicks, i would love to try them on

edit: i have to agree that deconstruction is rather easy, but it can also be hard to show beyond just deconstructing a known garment like a white button down shirt.

 

[Pastry]

I feel like the gothic collection (we're talking fall 2005, right?) was different. That one actually has a special place in my heart. It's so recent, but it might as well have been ten years ago, so many things have changed since then.

In fact, I see that collection as somewhat of a turning point for Jacobs' body of "work". I think he realized that he caught onto something, with the collection being so poorly reviewed and all. But then everyone started loving the weird, the ugly, the offbeat. And so, he went with it; he changed his formula.
these past few collections have been different. they will never have the air of paris fashion week about them. I don't even think he would fit in if he moved his show there.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^i always thought there were meetings and "guide" books to tell the previliged designers what the up and coming trends are...something like the G8 meetings

That's what I keep hearing, but when people here post from the trend books ... I have never seen anything so vague and yet derivative in my life

Personally I think the folks who keep beating that drum are the ones who have no clue what's next

I mean, I can often sense it myself, I'm sure many of us can ... and no one told us, right?

Pastry, we're agreed on that, that was one of my favorite collections of his, if not my all-time favorite. I liked this past spring quite well, so I'm sure this too shall pass. I question to what extent he has a formula though ... except he loves to shock & surprise & likes to play off criticism sometimes ... and come to think of it, the "reaction" collections (Yes, I am American ... yes, I can do "sexy" ...) are the ones I've disliked the most.

I do know this about Paris ... he certainly wouldn't be king of the hill there, though Vuitton holds its own and I imagine this would too. But he would have to line up behind Lanvin, Balenciaga, et al ... if I were Marc I wouldn't give up my spot at the head of the New York class ... even if it is the short bus of the fashion world ...

 

[Pastry]

^keen observation, ta-ta