I don't really know if I agree with the negative criticism in this thread. I think this is a very good collection judging from past collections and especially the last one.
In some way it feels like a "safe" collection, keeping quilted materials, lots of black, early modern silhouettes, grunge, punk and a bit of skin (as in punk skinhead...) with the boots. Not very innovative, but wearable enough to represent the cheaper of Mr. Jacobs two lines.
It feels as if Marc might have evolved his personal relation to grunge and punk slightly, and I can see why people might interpret such tendencies as schizophrenic (even though they mean MPD) when he mixes it with his more clean cut looks.
I'm a big fan of Marc Jacobs (just like everybody else) and I was worried about him, and his creativity when he according to the press and his own statements fell back after 7 years of sobriety.
The collections he presented for SS08 was not bad, it's Mr. Jacobs, but I thought that they seemed to lack a thread and a "visual semantic". It seemed as if he as Creative Director and Designer had overseen compromises and crossovers. I can only speculate in why, but I'm so glad this collection is more structured.
I felt as if the ss08 "Marc by" was more genuinely created, with more depth and thought than the ss08 Marc Jacobs main line.
But now I'm really excited since he chose to show the "Marc by" first, and judging by the look of FW0809 I hope I'm right about it being a sign of a fantastic collection to come!
Marc! You are amazing, an inspiration and a creative legend.
PS. Of course a lot can be found at thrift stores as some have written, most clothes can, except maybe Gareth Pugh and Margiela and other highly avant designers.