MARC JACOBS
MARC JACOBS' autumn/winter 2008-9 show was slated to begin at 7pm Friday night, so naturally, given last season's two-hour wait (when the 9pm show didn't start till after 11pm), guests arriving at the Lexington Avenue Armory at the appointed hour were ready for anything. Rumours had begun swirling earlier in the week that Sonic Youth might play the show (yea,
right), and the leather banquettes and cafe tables set up between the stage and the metal bleachers - topped by buckets of Moet-minis - coupled with the Sonic Youth-emblazoned canvas bags placed on every seat, indicated the rumours might just be true. (The microphones, speakers and instruments on stage were another big clue).
Quelle surprise! Another
quelle surprise: at exactly 7pm, Jacobs himself - looking calm, cool and collected - sprinted from behind the scaffolding with a big grin on his face and did a lap around the stage waving to everyone in the audience. (What better way to dispel rumours that you're out partying at the Mercer Hotel?) At 7.15pm, an announcement was made asking everyone - including Victoria Beckham, Deborah Harry, Gretchen Mol, Ellen Pompeo , M.I.A., Molly Sims, Selma Blair, Ellen Pompeo and, yes, K-Fed - to take their seats, and five minutes later, when only a few people had complied, another, sterner warning was issued: "Ladies and gentlemen,
please take your seats. The show is about to begin." And out came Kim Gordon & co. They had barely launched into the first song when the runway show started, with the models walking at the edges of the stage while the band played in the middle. So what of the clothes, you ask? Well, the largely ivory and grey collection - full of Eighties-era pleated peg-leg pants, boxy Margaret Thatcher coats, dropped waist jackets, and the kind of dowdy-chic skirts and dresses Jacobs loves, many with gathered, voluminous backs or contrasting side panels - wasn't as off-the-wall inspired as spring's outing (and we're not quite sure what to make of the Tricorn hats and puffy sweatbands worn with most of the looks). We did, however, love that Jacobs tweaked his critics (who often lambaste him as a "borrower" of other designers' work) with an ivory and nude giant-shouldered dress that was, in both cut and colour, a winking paean to Martin Margiela. And who but Marc Jacobs could make grandma shades of pale coral, lilac, mint green, and gold lamé look cool? Overall, though, the presentation - which concluded when the models all climbed the towering scaffolding that stood in front of a video screen and turned, en masse, to face the audience - was far more engaging than the clothing presented. "I really wasn’t very inspired this season," Jacobs admitted, post-show, with a laugh before being bear-hugged by Suzy Menkes. "You know, I just lived my life and reacted to the things that are happening in my life and the world in general." Here's hoping for a more exciting reaction come spring. (We do, however, have to admire the man's honesty.) (February 8 2008, PM)
Lauren David Peden