Maria Grazia Chiuri - Designer

[chalayan]

J’adior, the book tote and even the saddle are super passé. The belong to minimum 5 years ago.

the saddle bag is anything but passé. you may dislike it but it's one of the hottest bags in the vintage second-hand market. chiuri wouldn't have relaunched it if what you're saying is correct. you're flat out wrong.

 

[fashionmarketeditor]

it took Dior a week after Kim’s last show to announce his departure. Lauren Sherman says it will be announced in the next 7 days.

 

[Nimsay]

Yet they sassed Hedi slimane by announcing ol boy 30 mins after hedis depature post.

 

[FashionPower]

It is underperforming now vs previous years. And there’s a lot of brand fatigue between loyal customers.

J’adior, the book tote and even the saddle are super passé. The belong to minimum 5 years ago.

I think someone purchasing a Jadior in 2025 is a little bit lost tbh. The book tote is perfect for traveling, I hate from a fashion point of view but I like from a user point of view. It’s passé tho. You don’t see people carrying it as a daily bag anymore (too uncomfortable if you don’t put it on your Rimowa).

And in terms of old lines and new lines, sometimes they coexist. Although it’s difficult to imagine Jonathan redoing the Book Tote.

At the end, I think most suits and brands would love to have the same brand fatigue as Maria Grazia's Dior, with the tariffs drama emerging every other week and all the conflicts, I would never sacrifice a safe bet against an unknown bid...but that's just my opinion.
Jonathan will most probably discontinue the book tote: firstly for an ego reason (he wants to make his own best seller and don't rely on someone else success), secondly I think with Jonathan Dior will shift more towards leather accessories (maybe just mimicking the Loewe narrative on leather craftmanship). I think he may just agree on keeping the toile de youy motif as part of the permanent collection and declining it in different colors for summer capsule and other easily merchandisible collections. Lastly, I think Dior management wanna get rid of the infamous bag sold at 2,7k with 53 euro production costs: 5000% margin! By the way, I lived for the clueless delusional customers who literally fell from the clouds after the news spread...if only they knew Gucci canvas bags made in Prato have a production cost of 30 euro and they end up being sold at 2,3k and up...
Totally agree with you about the book tote being perfect travel bag: it's like the Dior version of a Keepall and for some aspects, even better! More practical and less heavy, the only cons is the absence of a zipped / more secure compartment but most people get bag organizers.

 

[Creative]

the saddle bag is anything but passé. you may dislike it but it's one of the hottest bags in the vintage second-hand market. chiuri wouldn't have relaunched it if what you're saying is correct. you're flat out wrong.

It was hot in 2019 till 2022. After that it was passé. It didn’t age well. If you carry a Saddle in 2025 you have a very independent or particular taste (which is extremely rare) or you are a super late adopter.

Customers that bought the Saddle in 2019 don’t use it anymore.

It’s like the B23 sneakers… who would want to wear that in 2025? They belong to another era.

I think the best MGC did (and Pietro) was making the Lady Dior an iconic bag. Before 2016 it was a very old lady bag that young girls or women (Chinese customers aside) didn’t want to have. Now it’s a staple and has a timeless allure.

 

[Frederic01]

The end is nigh!


WWD

 

[FashionPower]

It was hot in 2019 till 2022. After that it was passé. It didn’t age well. If you carry a Saddle in 2025 you have a very independent or particular taste (which is extremely rare) or you are a super late adopter.

Customers that bought the Saddle in 2019 don’t use it anymore.

It’s like the B23 sneakers… who would want to wear that in 2025? They belong to another era.

I think the best MGC did (and Pietro) was making the Lady Dior an iconic bag. Before 2016 it was a very old lady bag that young girls or women (Chinese customers aside) didn’t want to have. Now it’s a staple and has a timeless allure.

It's a pity that the Lady Dior 95.22 bag released in 2022 flopped, the design was strong and with the right identity and could have worked as modern reinterpretation of the iconic design. Dior biggest missed opportunity is definitely the Diorama from Raf Simons however, Dior is the only brand who's not making its postman / Boy bag version. Celine has the Triompe, Valentino has the Vain, CHANEL has the Boy...

 

[Creative]

She's officially out!!!!! YAYYYYY!!

 

[marines]

 

[VogueDisciple93]

All the Horcruxes have finally been destroyed!

 

[Creative]

Tbh, I have to say that it is a GREAT example of how to stop a collab with a designer. Very well managed, at least publicly.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

We often overrate Maria Grazia 's commercial success.

She was there, at the right place, when the luxury market boomed.
The first collections of Virginie were also more comercially successful than Karl's. Was she better?
I don't think so. It has more to do with general consumer trends.
Many houses experienced a similar growth during those years, and the ones that didn't was probably because extremely chaotic management (Lanvin, I can imagine also Givenchy).

Now the general consumer trend is receding (to analyze the reasons would be complex).
Can we blame Maria Grazia for the disappointing results at Dior?
Neither.
She is the same, like ten years ago.
To blame her for consumer fatigue... it's unfair. Either you were exhausted already at the third show or you just loved her style. She is not lacking fantasy since five or six seasons: she never had any.
There is more imagination in one of the outfits of Il Casanova di Fellini than in the whole collection that we just saw (to pick a movie done in Cinecittà, at Rome)

The only real comercial-success makers in the last decade were Slimane and whoever is behind the Miu Miu boom.
All the rest were surfing the wave.

 

[youthinasia]

For 10 years I did not CONSENT to MGC at Dior

 

[aracic]

Well... that's happened. I can't say I'm excited by the prospect of Jonathan Anderson at Dior having never been a fan, but I guess it's exciting to be able to anticipate a change at last. Maybe it'll be good, who knows. I do wonder where she might go next.

 

[GreyVetiver]

Well... that's happened. I can't say I'm excited by the prospect of Jonathan Anderson at Dior having never been a fan, but I guess it's exciting to be able to anticipate a change at last. Maybe it'll be good, who knows. I do wonder where she might go next.

Hopefully nowhere.

 

[Salvatore]

I fell to my knees in my home in complete and unbridled elation ! FINALLY !!!! 😭

Please let me change the title. 😭

 

[Xone]

Well... that's happened. I can't say I'm excited by the prospect of Jonathan Anderson at Dior having never been a fan, but I guess it's exciting to be able to anticipate a change at last. Maybe it'll be good, who knows. I do wonder where she might go next.

@Thefrenchy stated that could be Fendi...i hope they do announce that and JWA fast so everyone can have a relax summer...lol

 

[Creative]

We often overrate Maria Grazia 's commercial success.

She was there, at the right place, when the luxury market boomed.
The first collections of Virginie were also more comercially successful than Karl's. Was she better?
I don't think so. It has more to do with general consumer trends.
Many houses experienced a similar growth during those years, and the ones that didn't was probably because extremely chaotic management (Lanvin, I can imagine also Givenchy).

Now the general consumer trend is receding (to analyze the reasons would be complex).
Can we blame Maria Grazia for the disappointing results at Dior?
Neither.
She is the same, like ten years ago.
To blame her for consumer fatigue... it's unfair. Either you were exhausted already at the third show or you just loved her style. She is not lacking fantasy since five or six seasons: she never had any.
There is more imagination in one of the outfits of Il Casanova di Fellini than in the whole collection that we just saw (to pick a movie done in Cinecittà, at Rome)

The only real comercial-success makers in the last decade were Slimane and whoever is behind the Miu Miu boom.
All the rest were surfing the wave.

I almost always agree with you but I have to differ here.

MGC had a very clear vision of her Dior (even if I hated it) and she boosted the business because she's a great marketer. She did a boutique line for RTW, which Dior never had before, it was called 30 Montaigne and was a commercial success. RTW exploded under her, Tshirts, jeans, skirts, the new bar jacket, windbreakers, dresses...

For the bags, she did amazing. The launch of the Book Tote, the saddle, the new editions of the Lady Dior (with the flap), in canvas... The 30 Montaigne was also quite huge.

For the shoes as well... She had the Converse, the J'adior being a success from minute 1.

The fashion acc were better curated than before and the category also exploded.

VV at Chanel is a completely different story. She followed what Karl did and her collections did better because of the brand itself (openings, marketing and businesses strategies, etc). She didn't have a vision. She didn't change Chanel. She didn't launch anything (the garbage bag aside).

People don't know how small Dior was before MGC. Now it's a top 5 brand and I must say it's thanks to her vision and Pietro's. If there's something undeniable is that she was a great commercial success and that she had a very sharp vision regarding product and the business.

And for fashion fatigue, it's her fault actually. Since she's a one trick pony, you get tired. JW at Loewe was there for 10 years and tbh, there was no fatigue and it felt fresh all the time.

Edit: I forgot that she was the one redoing the oblique. Before her, it didn't exist in people's minds. Now it's a staple and as famous as the LV monogram.

 

[Simera]

So happy it’s official! I could take her white, black and beige looks anymore!
Beyond excited for JW’s Dior.

 

[Xone]