Martin Margiela - Designer

Here is my summation of MMM...past, present, and future.

I'm not exactly sure what the title of this post was intended for. Please forgive me if this post belongs somehere else, under a different post.

Considering I might be one of the earliest collectors of Martin Margiela on The Fashion Spot, I have watched the evolution of Martin's company, for many, many years.

I have made comments on several posts about MMM and other designers as well, throughout the years I've been on TFS.

It's sorta complicated to describe and encapsulate over 25 years of fashion, specificly MMM, in one single post...but I will attempt to give my condensed version of my story, and my perspective.

Martin Margieal and his peers..including Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkemberg, Walter Van Bierendonck, Marina Yhee, and Ann Demeulemeester began their careers inthe early 1980's...a time in fashion that could be viewed as considerably commercial. It was a time where Versace, Thierre Mugler, J.P. Gaultier, etc etc reigned surpreme. During that time, most of the fashion industry was not overly concerned with a group of designers who presented too much black, and too much elusiveness within their fashion aesthetic. That realm of fashion was mostly reserved for designers such as Comme Des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyaki, Matsuda..and they catered to be very specific clientele, that being not the mass-majority. Whenever the Belgians presented their collections, many of them were not looked upon, or seen as, being significant. Most of them refused to conduct interviews (many of them still do)..and many of them were not particularly interested in describing the story within their collections.

The fashion industry in itself can be a very difficult world to live in. As many of you (I'm sure) understand, it can be a diffult place where one can survive. There is plenty of competition out there, and it takkes plenty of money in order to survive. In order for someone to make money..one nneds to have money. As they say.."It takes money, to make money."

There are many designer collections who's main focus is to generate profits. You see their 5-page spreads in every fashion magazine that you might flip through, because the subject of fashion (in itself) has become "more fashionable." There are many many more people who love fashion, than there were 20 years ago. Fashion has become, more fashionable. In order for someone to survive (especially today), one usually needs heavy financial backing, a great PR system, at times a celebrity (or runway-supermodel) to atttact attention. All of the aforementioned, are subjects that many of the Belgians (and the Japanese) didn't aspire to. None of them used logo's or advetisements to attract attention, or status. Their primary objective was to follow their hearts, not following current trends, using fabrics in non-traditional constructions, etc etc. Every designer certainly needs to make money in order to survive...but, it can also be like a catch-22. Do you sell your company for millions of dollars to a corporate company that can make your collection grow...or, do you refuse to "sell-out", rely upon word-of-mouth in order to be recognized, collecting small profits from a very small clientele, and a very tiny demographic??

As far as Martin Margiela...I knew I could smell trouble on the horizon after the Diesel Corp buy out strategy. The Diesel Corp is certainly a great company, so I'm not going to tarnish its image, or its history (I was wearing Diesel jeans in the late 1980's)...but Renzo Rosso has become a power-house buyer within the fashion industry.

I genuinely believe that Renzo Rosso never meant to harm Martin Margiela. For a long time, MMM was suffering financially during its early years. Renzo himself has always encouraged and supported creativity. I think the only irony about MMM and the Diesel Corp are their aesthetics. Bluntly speaking, Renzo loves (and realizes the need in today's world) to advertise...MMM, is the opposite.

If Martin Margiela walked away from what he created, he definitely in NOT the first and only designer, to do so. It has happened in the past with Helmut Lang (Prada bought his company, disected it, then sold it)...also, Jil Sander (also bought by Prada) who refused to negotiate, sold her company, and walked away (which is now being designed by Raf Simons, another Belgian designer.)

Sorry if this post is a bit confusing and in-coherent...but I'm finding it difficult to explain what I'd like to explain. Sorry.
 
Ugh, if this is true that he walked away, it's really sad.... I wasn't too sure of the finale of this show, too derivative, but I still wouldn't think that this is too far from his vision. Though he was more startlingly creative before in his other collections. Please don't disappear....:(
 
i don't know if he's gone away or not ...
and is this really sad ?

I'm not that much into MMM history and etc. so I know little comparing MM2004 or Scott or anyone here ... but
if his asst./collabs take part into the collections is this really 'dangerous' for the label ? I'm asking ...

And eventhough these rumors are not new ... don't you think the fact several journalists are talking about him going away right after this show ... couldn't it be true ?
I'm asking ...

two REAL questions ...


* i'm surprise not that much people are really into this affair *
:ninja:
 
I'm just waiting for official word on the situation, rumors are rumors. I just hope that whatever happens (or happened) is best for MMM.
 
margiela is definitely out of his company since last spring/summer's show... a team is now designing the collection. apparently, after approaching raf simons for the job, they also tried to tap haider ackermann, who was as well not available (anne chapelle has a rigorous hand on her talent)... so i assume, a team is designing the collection, as most of his lines have been for the last few years.
 
they should get jurgi persoons....he's been out of fashion too long and i think he can bring along some of those similar aesthetics as MMM.
 
margiela is definitely out of his company since last spring/summer's show... a team is now designing the collection. apparently, after approaching raf simons for the job, they also tried to tap haider ackermann, who was as well not available (anne chapelle has a rigorous hand on her talent)... so i assume, a team is designing the collection, as most of his lines have been for the last few years.
so i wonder what mr. margiela will be doing next, if he has retired from designing for the maison
 


Barbie’s 50th birthday celebrations continue with a Paris exhibition of new pint-size designer looks for the plastic diva set to be unveiled at Galeries Lafayette on Monday. Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier and Sonia Rykiel count among around 50 designers to have downsized signature looks for the “Barbie Fashion Show 2009” event. Meanwhile, Maison Martin Margiela offered an incognito Barbie who comes dressed in a flesh-tone face mask and bodysuit, a pair of black fishnet tights and a shaggy coat crafted from glossy blonde wigs. Ending April 25, the show will travel, according to a Mattel spokeswoman.
source | wwd.com
 
According to a friend of mine who is doing an internship at MMM, Martin is less and less present in the studio... The situation is getting worse and worse
 

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are you attending,runner? would love if you could do some reporting for us all :wink:
 
flipped through some old catalogues home ...

and found this - not sure if this has ever been posted ...

9-16 oct. 1993
Présentation Martin Margiela
55, rue de Meaux 75019 PARIS
Photo by Anders Edstrom







- snapped by berlinrocks / from L'Hiver de l'amour - bis (1994, Paris, ARC, Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris - cur. by Elein Fleiss, DGF, Bernard Joisten, J.L. Vilmouth and Olivier Zahm) exhibit' catalogue
sorry i was sort of lazy to turn the images ....


 
6254_111590808784_92588673784_2088707_8003027_n.jpg


MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
By Maison Martin Margiela

With contributing essays by Jean Paul Gaultier, Andrée Putman, Vanessa Beecroft, Susannah Frankel, Carine Roitfeld, Lele Acquarone, and more

“Margiela belongs to a trend of artists, such as Jean Dubuffet or Robert Filliou, who are the bearers of counter-culture. “Making” is more important than “savoir-faire”.
The idea surpasses the means.” – from contributing essay by Chris Decron, August 2008

With its loyal, cult-like following, Maison Martin Margiela has transformed the global fashion world with its aggressive restatement of traditional fashion design and a somewhat contentious approach to luxury trends and ideals. The first book to document the work of the enigmatic fashion atelier, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA (October 2009; $100; Rizzoli) offers a unique look at the design process from a collective known for its originality and provocative daring—oversized construction, monochromatic palate, non-traditional fabric—to create a singular enigmatic look.

Pulling from Maison Martin Margiela’s own personal archives, many of the images in the book have never been seen before and showcase a collection of photographs encompassing shows, exhibitions, editorials and beyond, each one opening the doors to the daring, secretive and iconoclast world of this famous atelier. In the spirit of Margiela’s garments, this book is a work of art in itself. Designed exclusively by Margiela, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA comes complete with silver inks, ribbon markers, a variety of lush paper types, twelve booklets, and an extraordinary embroidered white fabric cover.

Adding to the book are numerous essays by some of the world’s design luminaries: Jean Paul Gaultier, Andrée Putman, Vanessa Beecroft, Susannah Frankel, Carine Roitfeld, Lele Acquarone, Didier Grumbach, Olivier Saillard, Sonia Rachline, Vincent Wierink, and Chris Decron. A truly intimate look into the house’s unique and singular world, this book gives readers a glimpse into the creative genius and vision that is Maison Martin Margiela.

About the Author: Maison Martin Margiela was founded in 1988 in Paris by Belgian designer Martin Margiela. Unique in the world of high fashion, Mr. Margiela uncharacteristically eschews personal accolades, deferring instead to his design team as a collective entity responsible for the house’s collections.

Images from Maison Martin Margiela are available to accompany your coverage. To arrange, please contact Nicki Clendening at 646-330-4878 or [email protected]. Credit for images from the book must read: © Maison Martin Margiela by Maison Martin Margiela, Rizzoli New York, 2009.

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
By Maison Martin Margiela, with contributing essayists
Hardcover 10” x 13” / 368 pages, including twelve booklets and ribbon markers / 400 color photos
$100. U.S., $122 Canadian
Rizzoli New York
ISBN: 978-0-8478-3214-9
Release date: October 2009
http://www.rizzoliusa.com
facebook.com/maisonmargiela
 
he is sickly fabulous!
even thought I'm not a huge fan of all things extravagant, mais j'adore MMM!!!!!
 

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