Martin Margiela - Designer

[mikka000]

I'm going to pre-order that book right away!

 

[BerlinRocks]

really expensive book !!!

i don't really understand what's going on with MMM right now.
two or three exhibit' the past months, some books ...

wow !

it's really the end of MMM ...

anyway ... I would love to read the contributions writings ...

someone said on SZ, it wasn't that great.
or maybe it was another book. can't really remember ...

 

[fashion.fashoff]

here are a couple i picked up today.

does anybody know what seasons these are from?

painted vintage denim jacket. it was hand-painted (you can see the brushstrokes on the buttons). it is an artisanal style piece, on the interior you can see where the atelier removed some patches that had been sewn onto the piece.

pvc fake snakeskin jacket. it has only one button, under the collar. on the inside of the back are two fabric straps you can tie to tighten the back.

pix by me

 

[margielamike2004]

Hello F. Fashoff.....I think the pieces that you have are dated from around 1994/95. The faux-snakeskin jacket is a piece that I have seen before, but not done in this kind of material. Actually, I've never seen the classic Margiela cigarette-sleeve jacket done in this kind of fabric (snakeskin). I own a navy blue, heavy canvas tuxcedo jacket with the same sleeve construction, and mine is dated "Automne/Hiver 1995" on the label. I've been collecting Margiela pieces since 1989 (MargielaMike2004 on here cuz I joined the fashionspot in 2004)...so I'm quite certain when this piece originates.

The painted jean jacket that you also have is classic Margiela...but it's not an artisinal piece. in order the the piece to be "Artisinal"...the label would have the numbers 0-23...and the zero would be circled. This is blank-label Margiela, which categorizes this piece in the woman's main line (best quality) collection.

Both of your pieces are SPECTACULAR!!!

Definitely NEVER sell them....definitely hold onto them. Both pieces are incredibly rare, and they are also very musuem-quality.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

mike, thanks as always for sharing your margiela knowledge! glad to have an approximate date of my finds. definitely not going to sell them--i already hanging in the margiela section on my wall!

i know the jacket isn't actually artisanal, but in the same spirit/technique. also the tag says "made in france" so i think it was probably made at the atelier, not the factory in italy like most pieces are? the france and care tags are sewn on with two white threads. i have sold later pieces that were similar but from the 6 line--so not as much handwork, and they were also spray painted. this piece's painted surface is uneven--blobs of paint in some places, thinner paint in others, indicating that handwork.

when did mmm start using the circled 0 tag?

do you know what the theme of the fake snakeskin piece's collection might have been?

 

[gius]

just curious.. how does the paint feel, f.f ? i can see some chips, the denim coming through --but at first i thought the jacket was leather. is there any tag saying it's washable? ^^

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo56/fashpic/mmd1.jpg

 

[user500]

good idea to hang them on the wall, fashion.fashoff. very appropriate for outstanding pieces. its like having a small private museum...

 

[BerlinRocks]

love the denim jkt.
what's the technique and what material is used for this "painting" ?
would love to do the same ...

 

[fashion.fashoff]

the denim jacket is VERY stiff. the paint was rather thickly applied. suspect it is acrylic paint. probably with regular wear, stress areas (elbows, shoulders, etc.) would soften and the paint would flake off, giving it an aged look. as it is now, i don't think it was ever worn. there is no paint wear/damage.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

just curious.. how does the paint feel, f.f ? i can see some chips, the denim coming through --but at first i thought the jacket was leather. is there any tag saying it's washable? ^^

gius, the tag says hand wash only. no bleach, iron, machine washing/drying.

upon closer inspection, i think a fair amount of paint was applied to the surface (perhaps poured on), and then allowed to soak for a little, and then the excess wiped off. that is how the surface and texture strike me. i have some acrylic paint, so i'm going to try that technique on something i never wear.

 

[gius]

thanks! it sounds nice.. i've done it before too, with acrylic on muslin. still stiff and stiffer in some parts even after days of curing and several machine washes. no shine like your jacket here though.

this would make a good new topic.. ^^

 

[soul_brutus]

I have a couple of Margiela jeans just like this, hand painted. One is black an the other is white. If I were you I'd never wash it. Perhaps you can use a wet clothe... Try to be carefull and keep it as it is. Patina is a Margiela's ever present concept and reality (at leats at that time).

 

[droogist]

mike, thanks as always for sharing your margiela knowledge! glad to have an approximate date of my finds. definitely not going to sell them--i already hanging in the margiela section on my wall!

i know the jacket isn't actually artisanal, but in the same spirit/technique. also the tag says "made in france" so i think it was probably made at the atelier, not the factory in italy like most pieces are? the france and care tags are sewn on with two white threads. i have sold later pieces that were similar but from the 6 line--so not as much handwork, and they were also spray painted. this piece's painted surface is uneven--blobs of paint in some places, thinner paint in others, indicating that handwork.

when did mmm start using the circled 0 tag?

do you know what the theme of the fake snakeskin piece's collection might have been?

If the jacket was made in France, it's indeed most likely artisinal. The numbered tags first appeared in 1999, so if it's an older piece it would still have the blank tag.

 

[soul_brutus]

You'll find out all the information you're looking for at the official web site (cv section). The artisanal collection started to be produced before garments were labeled with the numbers 0-23.

At present, men lines have just the season value. Women's is still good to collect (last collection is really good) but I do not do it anymore since 2007.

 

[runner]

kci.or.jp

 

[Scott]

if none have yet,please get the new MMM book. it's beautiful and covers everything from his earliest till the anniversary celebration last spring. i think all faithful fans should have this in their collection,especially in light he departing. it's authored by margiela and has contributions for gaultier,andree putman and the ever-wonderful vanessa beecroft.

 

[ponytrot]

is it in borders? I will try to have a look

 

[margielamike2004]

I have seen the book, but never in-person. Mostly just several pages on line, from the book.

I'm not sure if the book is available in the USA. If available here, most likely it would be found in NYC, or any of his boutiques in the USA.

I've seen the book being sold on-line through a major action website 9not sure if it can be mentioned, here...so I'll refrain)...but whenever the book is being sold, the seller is always outside of the USA...usually from the UK, in particular.

 

[runner]

mot-art-museum.jp

 

[Scott]

actually i pre-ordered from barnes & noble...so if you can't find it in-shop you can get it online.