Suzy Menkes on MMM
i absolutely agree on the decline of deconstraction, it almost bores me to be honest much more when it just repeats itself.. and i certainly wouldnt enjoy the cabins idea myself
i need uplifting atmospheres and fresh ideas
Martin Margiela has soon to make a decision: whether he is going to keep in aspic his cool factor, acquired through off-kilter shows, where the clothes are conceptual to a fault; or whether to admit that he has matured into a fine designer, backed by Renzo Rosso of Diesel and with a slew of fans for his modernist take on classics.
The show he sent out over the weekend was maddening: in a giant hall in Paris's outskirts, black curtains turned the vast space into claustrophobic cabins, with airplane supply boxes as seats. The lights then were turned on and off to give a brief glimpse of rather lovely clothes. Why?
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Margiela feels a need to obscure the talent that creates a slither of a satin dress, a perfectly cut pair of pants and even his new endorsement of color. Draped dresses in scarlet and jade green were dazzlers, even with a wire coat hanger and a bit of another garment attached. Enough already with garments made out of panty hose. Deconstruction is starting to look like yesterday's trend and Margiela's talent deserves a better showcase than he is giving it.
i absolutely agree on the decline of deconstraction, it almost bores me to be honest much more when it just repeats itself.. and i certainly wouldnt enjoy the cabins idea myself
i need uplifting atmospheres and fresh ideas