Matthieu Blazy - Designer, Creative Director of Chanel

[PDFSD]

Im speaking in terms of aesthetic.
Everybody has their own design language ultimately that will make them standout as individuals.
In terms of quote on quote aesthetic. What he proposed at Margiela Artisanal was different from what he ended up doing at BV.

Maybe you didn’t get what I meant. Tom Ford at Gucci or YSL or Tom Ford was doing Tom Ford. But essentially, his work and approach for each brand was sensibly different.
Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Fendi, Chloe, Karl Lagerfeld was doing Karl Lagerfeld. He has his signature shapes, his own approach to flou, to decoration and all but it essentially looked different at each brand.

Miuccia Prada is doing Miuccia at both of her brand but the approach is different and then the result is sensibly different.

Hedi and Alessandro’s work are however interchangeable no matter where they goes.

There’s a difference between a sensibility and an end result. I rarely look at a Vuitton collection thinking that it could have been Balenciaga. The same way that I never looked at a Chanel collection thinking that it could have been Fendi.

i think blazy did always blazy the overworked craft at margiela we can see from his academie years as to now at BV ....and he had a hard time letting his shows or look book stylings breath or make a cohesive or edited chapters in his collections ...so clearly he has his signature (Obsessions with overworked and craft )

don't you think his aesthetic is that: overworked crafty ?

 

[PDFSD]

Right now that the “Cat” is out of the bag!! What I would like to really know will we finally have Chanel menswear under blazy? Will Jacob follow as an ambassador? Who will style the collections? (Better not be Mckimn)!! Who will photograph the campaigns?! Haha these are the important questions!!

Jacob is already in the Chanel nr 5 adv this season 🕺 lol

 

[PDFSD]

I’m so confused at this appointment, and I think a lot of these brands will realize they are shooting themselves in the foot by hiring old-Celine proteges. I don’t think that it’s necessary for a CD to be front facing, but he lacks personality imo. His designs have whimsy, in an overally intellectual and retrospective way, but lacks the coolness and humor I’m used to from Lagerfeld’s Chanel.

I really thought Hedi had it, but I think he’ll do wonders at Armani too.

even if i don't like Walters tods it sold (speaking to the team there) the current version of Tods is having a hard time selling RTW because its too conceptual and the clients want some reality and every day clothes but elevated italian flair.

 

[proseccotabis]

even if i don't like Walters tods it sold (speaking to the team there) the current version of Tods is having a hard time selling RTW because its too conceptual and the clients want some reality and every day clothes but elevated italian flair.

was it selling?? thats a pleasant surprise. i find Walter's work so unbelievably bland its actually upsetting as he's such an awesome person

 

[PDFSD]

was it selling?? thats a pleasant surprise. i find Walter's work so unbelievably bland its actually upsetting as he's such an awesome person

yes i was surprised as well because it was so old fashioned and a mix of wannabe moder and frida idea of lux ......

awesome person .....lol i say no more 🤐 ...

 

[vogue22]

Right now that the “Cat” is out of the bag!! What I would like to really know will we finally have Chanel menswear under blazy? Will Jacob follow as an ambassador? Who will style the collections? (Better not be Mckimn)!! Who will photograph the campaigns?! Haha these are the important questions!!

He needs to get Templer on the phone right now!

 

[PPPT]

I get that Chanel picked him because he's easy to manage and doesn't cost a fortune, but I really hope the suits stay out of his creative process and pay him what he's worth.

I read somewhere that they're only planning to pay the new CD 2-3 million.

 

[plentyofhorns]

Right now that the “Cat” is out of the bag!! What I would like to really know will we finally have Chanel menswear under blazy? Will Jacob follow as an ambassador? Who will style the collections? (Better not be Mckimn)!! Who will photograph the campaigns?! Haha these are the important questions!!

Bruno’s message did mention the “women who surround and inspire him” so maybe no menswear immediately. I really hope Jacob doesn’t follow… I find it boring when designers bring their muses house to house. It makes all the campaigns feel the same

 

[Xone]

awesome person .....lol i say no more 🤐 ...

Please do...hahahaha

i don't know him but saw him recently near San Babila and he was exploring the Saint Laurent windows....

 

[fenty]

KEEP ALASTAIR MCKIMM AWAY FROM CHANEL

 

[Xone]

 

[jeremydante]

No Galliano, no Tisci, no Theysken,...but this guy ???

There's this really misaligned idea that, because someone did really well at one house that they will do well at all other houses and that is simply not true. Olivier did well at Nina Ricci by changing things up, executives didn't like it. So, even with his track record- why would Bruno/Chanel decide to bring him to Chanel.

Galliano is too radical an artist and too deep an artisan to manage the rigor and restraint of Chanel and its militant codes. Tisci was a genius with Givenchy but was very terrible at Burberry, we must admit that. It was not the right fit.

Blazy's past portfolio and gigs align him well. Sure, he's not as outright well known as those listed; but he's got the chops. Chanel is picky, they took 6mo to get this going and announce it. As NYT's Vanessa wrote, Virginie was very much a placeholder. Which was sad for her, but not a surprise. The ways that her collections just weren't enough compared to Karl - that's important observation.


I am excited to see what Matthieu does. And, you know what, at least he's french taking over a french house.
I hope this draws more meaning, culturally, for the house in a new way. Karl forever. Virginie, thank you for your work.

Mattieu - don't f*ck it up.
Appointment announced. Let's move forward.

 

[jeremydante]

I actually think that Blazy's appointement is intended to mark the beginning of Chanel 3.0.

While it's unsure as to whether Blazy will be "The Next Karl" or not, it's obvious that Chanel is making the move to put Karl's era in the vault and modernise the brand to get ahead of the brand fatigue.

This is such important context to delve into, thank you @LadyJunon for binging this forward.
We have to, as Karl himself would've done, let go of the past and be of today. Look ahead.

I, myself, can't picture what will be done- I can't predict it. And I feel excited by that, the slate is wiped clean. There are limitless possibilities at Chanel because the house code is soooooooooooo strong. I really am so excited for what's to come.

It's a new beginning. Chanel 3.0, we're ready.

 

[proseccotabis]

yes i was surprised as well because it was so old fashioned and a mix of wannabe moder and frida idea of lux ......

awesome person .....lol i say no more 🤐 ...

haha judging from your latter sentiment i guess youve an interaction/s with him i caught him in a good mood i guess

 

[jeremydante]

Going through the thread and seeing how many people are confused by the appointment is a clear indicator that so many really do NOT understand fashion, or its need to move the future forward.

Hedi was never going to get it. Please shut up saying that.
Any and everyone saying that, it didn't happen. It won't happen. It shouldn't have happened. Glad it didn't.

 

[proseccotabis]

Going through the thread and seeing how many people are confused by the appointment is a clear indicator that so many really do NOT understand fashion, or its need to move the future forward.

Hedi was never going to get it. Please shut up saying that.
Any and everyone saying that, it didn't happen. It won't happen. It shouldn't have happened. Glad it didn't.

i mean i think a lot of people are confused because of how conventional bland Chanel can be as a brand, rather than lacking knowledge and basic understanding about fashion. having said that - thank GOD Hedi wasnt hired. now THAT would be a car wreck of an appointment. I was also dreading the potential Jacquemus appointment mdr

 

[jeremydante]

i mean i think a lot of people are confused because of how conventional bland Chanel can be as a brand, rather than lacking knowledge and basic understanding about fashion.

I don't think that's it. I think people struggle to understand that the house comes before the designer.
The designer needs to fit within house code. Not the other way around.

Bland is subjective. A storied fashion house may feel dated to some, but inspiring for others.
So this point doesn't move the conversation forward as it may have been intended.

 

[proseccotabis]

I don't think that's it. I think people struggle to understand that the house comes before the designer.
The designer needs to fit within house code. Not the other way around.

Bland is subjective. A storied fashion house may feel dated to some, but inspiring for others.
So this point doesn't move the conversation forward as it may have been intended.

out of curiosity, who do you think would be a good CD for Chanel, apart from Blazy of course? every opinion is subjective

 

[jeremydante]

out of curiosity, who do you think would be a good CD for Chanel, apart from Blazy of course? every opinion is subjective

Honestly, I was thinking Chitose Abe of Saçai could've been an unexpected and beautiful addition.
I considered Chanel's dominance in Japan, her decronstructed outerwear and unique view on silhouette. She was not someone who others even mentioned, but I would've loved what she could have done at Chanel, and know that she was friends of Karl. But, they didn't pick her. I went off of her technical skills, being a patter matter for CDG working under Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanbe. But, y'know- maybe too under the radar a choice for some. @proseccotabis

 

[proseccotabis]

Honestly, I was thinking Chitose Abe of Saçai could've been an unexpected and beautiful addition.
I considered Chanel's dominance in Japan, her decronstructed outerwear and unique view on silhouette. She was not someone who others even mentioned, but I would've loved what she could have done at Chanel, and know that she was friends of Karl. But, they didn't pick her. I went off of her technical skills, being a patter matter for CDG working under Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanbe. But, y'know- maybe too under the radar a choice for some. @proseccotabis

Thanks for sharing, Jeremy! Chitose is an excellent designer, although i dont follow her actively. Definitely an unconventional choice for Chanel. On my end I was rooting for Simone Rocha! I feel like her vision would be perfect there, alas...