Chanel is a challenge itself.
Chanel is still a brand that, after all, still sells a lot of clothes and so innovation is at the service of commercialism.
There are the main collections, with their retail adaptations, the runway pre-collections, the pre-collections, the capsules Coco Neige/Coco Beach.
Except for Celine, Balenciaga under NG and RAF’s Calvin, his 2 main positions where he was in charge weren’t really apparel focused.
That being said, he is talented.
I think I’m more afraid of his collaborators (stylist and photographer) than I am of his capacities as a designer. I like his clothes at BV. I didn’t care that much for the trompe l’œil because Jean Claude Jitrois has been doing this for years. He even did the machine washable leather jeans so…
I know he will eliminate some of the tacky elements I hate about Chanel.
And I hope he will channel his inner Daniel Lee and deliver some great knitwear. Because Chanel in stores is essentially about tweed and knitwear.
At least we know Mat is gonna discontinue that hideous Chanel 22 bag from Virginie (aka the 5k garbage bag) and come up with a new it bag. Also the reissue of the Gabrielle bag and a new push on the Boy would be a nice surprise.
You know what, at first I hated the 22. But he reminds me of an old bag I have, the Coco Cabas from FW 2006. I think if they redesigned it in that way (a matelassé bottom part, no logo engraved in the leather) it would work. It’s a cute mini bag.
I hope they will bring back a new version of the GST and maybe push the 2.55 again.
I have always found interesting that in that push for quiet luxury, Chanel didn’t put a 2.55 on the runway. They have reduced the production so much now that they are all made in France now lol.