Matthieu Blazy - Designer, Creative Director of Chanel

[Caffeine]

First Blazy's white shirt about her love for Boy Capel. Next Margaret Qualley being proposed to by ASAP 🙄

Anti-monogamy seems to be the pattern now?

 

[Caffeine]

C’est un mal nécessaire!
Drastic but necessary. Less Erica the IG woman.

I’m not at all attached to the image that Chanel has had in the last 5 years at all. It’s great that Virginie sold a lot of clothes but you won’t convince me that it’s not a good thing to move from that.

I also experienced a time when Chanel was less logo-fied and when a good CC button was enough.

This palette cleanser is a win for me. I welcome that with a great joy.
And if they have a little dip in sales because of that? Ok and then!? They will comeback around. Fashion is a cycle anyway.

For the first time in a long time I’m actually interested in going to go to a Chanel store to buy RTW. I couldn’t care at all that some clients don’t like it lol.

You are not alone.
The purse forum buyers share your disdain for logos, for the most part. As someone posted earlier, the Dakar collection was the worst in terms of sales. It was obvious from the feedback on tPF. This one, I suspect the same. (Interestingly, the Dakar collection also had a focus on beading and craft, but some were done Temu-like, a total disrespect of the Ateliers.)

We hate logo pieces doesn't mean that we have to subscribe to the new (in reality, old BV/Phoebe), sloppy, and sad looks. The bar has to be higher.

 

[hamburgers]

This sounds like classic JWA, and that may explain why the quality of Dior's red carpet teasers was so terrible. Don't forget Blazy has couture background, and he's much more nerdy when it comes to fabrications and techniques than Anderson. When compared, Anderson's work is superficially nerdy, and he's more of a curator than a real designer. That worked well at Loewe, but the longer he is at Dior, the more I doubt about that approach being the right one. And if anyone lacks technical knowledge, it must be him.

Yeah I'm a fan of them both, but the original commenter clarified it's JW. PvO, who consulted for both Loewe and JW mainline, also being shady in comments unfortunately.

 

[PDFSD]

The dress he did for Nicole is really mediocre, if not bad. I expect more than sloppy draping from someone whose supposed obsession with craft is his only characteristic.

he likes abstracted prolapse flowers in silk or made from straw or other materials there is no inbetween lol...... because god forbid coco chanel has signature flower !!!!! not good enough ...man has to redesign it to be another type of flower because woman didn't know better.

that's the power of the 3.

the flowers on these dresses he did look like what a 12 year old can make from their bed sheets in 10 seconds

 

[PDFSD]

The dress he did for Nicole is really mediocre, if not bad. I expect more than sloppy draping from someone whose supposed obsession with craft is his only characteristic.

like dont get me wrong i love a helmut lang knot dress 2005 or yamamoto 1998 knot flower dress

but that was in concept with a whole research and purpose to those shows and looks.

 

[PDFSD]

My problem with logo has less to do with logos themselves than the aesthetic used to sell them.
From the moment I started to buy Chanel RTW to the moment I stopped, there were logos. The Chanel I know has always been very logo-fied, done with more or less success, sometimes with a lot of humor.

I have said it many times here but unlike a lot of Chanel fans, I despise the SS1995 collection. It’s a fun show to watch but my favorite outfit is probably the look Victoire de Castellane wore closing the show: a Chanel bar suit in tweed with wide leg pants lol.

But for a lot of Chanel fans, that collection, that aesthetic is the kind of epitome of what they likes or would like to recapture from Chanel. And in some ways, Virginie tapped into that.

Virginie was capable of that:
Modern and timeless, rather chic

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But she was also capable of that, which in return was a lot more commercially successful:
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I think there are more interesting ways to do logos au demeurant…

The reality is that, this is Chanel. You can’t remove logos. There are everywhere. I have a lot of blouses with seasonal prints and there’s a CC in them in between the prints. You can also elevate the exercise.

But I agree with the idea of frumpiness. I almost think that it’s something that goes with Chanel whenever volumes and the lineance to the very bourgeois (and conservative) side of Chanel are involved.

There were moments when Chanel was truly modern. When it was sexy and young. Karl did that perfectly in moments during the 80’s,90’s,00’s and 2010’s and there were moments where no matter how new he tried to be, the clothes looked like they were coming straight from Bernadette Chirac’s wardrobe.
I love the Tour Eiffel in the Grand Palais couture collection. But that collection would only work on someone with heavy modifications and great style.

The frumpiness with Blazy was more with the length of the skirt. It’s very Coco. That length only works with sexy shoes. And the classic Chanel slingbacks aren’t sexy.

Maybe that’s what is needed back. A kind of tacky sexiness to balance the whole thing. Blazy’s collection would look even more good with some tacky sex Christian Louboutin heels. The So Kate are too obvious..So the Cassia would do the job well lol.

agree 1000000000000000000000000000% VV did lots of ugly logo prints and basically ugly prints & graphics, blazy does the same even without logo

Hidden logos or prints with a CC in between the prints is normal and its a normal thing in silk prints even hermes signs of each print or play s with h or full name or horse,every brand with some print or logo plays with this some better than others sure etc and all brands do it its expected play of branding designs, i think nobody has an issue with this logo lover or not and to expand on it in other categories its fine sure.

this is not the issue logo or no logo when the complete vision or lack of it is the main issue.

Frumpiness with Blazy is not just skirts lengths be it Chanel or not, it has to do with all proportions and volumes and color choices and bulkiness and overall lack of sharpness in cut and silhouette and rigor and edit and concept.

Same as VV it was not just her use of white stocking or skirt length or drop waist ...its was a list of design choice...she is 63 years old , blazy 40 you would expect more modernity in cut and position then just copy trace of Phoebes work. badly done.

Even Phoebe has better cuts, even when she does drop waist peplum silhouettes etc that can be tricky, or grandy stuff in boring colors thees is a balance of risk and proportions to make something feel modern and fresh again.

We are not measuring with same parameters as VV got criticized etc when it comes to any critic of Blazy´s crafty work.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Call me a millenial with an outdated sense of taste, but I will always prefer the trim cut of Karl's early 2000s Chanel jackets over the droopy proportions Blazy insists on.

These two RTW jackets from the FW'02 collection are still as good looking today than when they were first presented - Most women would probably prefer to wear them over anything Chanel has shown in recent time.