Michael Rider - Designer, Creative Director of Celine

[tricotineacetat]

Hmm… that is his choice and way of working to be at the helm of a house and to have no respect whatsoever to the previous CD and to aggressively changed everything into his own. And somewhat managing to find some links between the house’s codes and his. This is his strength and also his weakness.

And many criticised him for that because he did not give a f to the successful tenure of PP.

There is nothing wrong to have a smooth transition and to respect what he established at Celine.

Vaccarello did it and for years now it is easy to distinguish Slimane’s SL from Vaccarello’s SL.

However I dont like how the Celine campaigns by Sadli scream ‘shot by Slimane’s team’.

So 60% disagree, 40% agree. (Sorry in advance for any typo)

I would have wholeheartedly joined that sort of criticism, had he done this remake at a house like Jil Sander, succeeding Jil - Or for that matter, any other namesake designer with an identity solidified over decades, with the founder still very much alive.

Phoebe had a good run at Celine but she served among many other designers before her, totally remaking the brand to her taste much in the same way as Hedi did after her. It’s not her house so I trust LVMH was perfectly aware and in agreement for Hedi to come up with a very different take on Celine.

Michael Rider’s assignment now is to build on the branding and classical products introduced under Hedi while at the same time allowing him to pick whatever he feels makes sense from the Phoebe years he was a part of - We can see that in the monogram canvas of Hedi coming in new colors as well as the Triomphe emblem that featured heavily in Hedi’s Celine iconography to remain the key house logo.

 

[tricotineacetat]

As much as there’s ego with Hedi, he always wants to keep good relationships with people. Does someone know if he’s still good with Toledano or Delphine? In the end he gave them a solid brand.

I feel like that was the assignment from the very beginning - To let Hedi solidify Celine as an eatablished Parisian luxury goods maison on par with the biggest names.

All of this was of course made possible on the niche success of Phoebe’s tenure, the first time in ages (or maybe even the first time) that Celine had credibility among the fashion scene - Before that, it was an equally hopeless case as Loewe before the arrival of J.W. Anderson.

 

[marines]

 

[yslforever]

Looks like 100% Parisian basics of the season, from a Galeries Lafayette medium range brand, but I don't unterstand their Zizi rip-offs, there are already 9 Repetto boutiques in Paris. Do they think it's exotic and new for the foreign customers ? Because it is certainly not from a Parisian POV.
And neither from an Asian market POV, I have just checked, there are several dozens of Repetto stockists in Korea and Japan alone.

 

[Lola701]

Michael is very charming and I like the interview/article. The photos are a non event though.
It looks very teenagers on this cast of models. And that’s everything I simply don’t connect with.

 

[PDFSD]

Michael is very charming and I like the interview/article. The photos are a non event though.
It looks very teenagers on this cast of models. And that’s everything I simply don’t connect with.

Ralph loathes the intellectualization of fashion,” says Rider. “The first thing he said to me at a presentation was, ‘Michael, why do you want to confuse people? You shouldn’t have to explain something. You should feel it.’ He was so right. That’s why so many people can project themselves into this lifestyle that he does, because it’s authentic.”

but he did not learn what ralph though him lol

his collection is confusion and not authentic (personal vision of a life style/world)

“Celine makes strong fashion out of real clothes and doesn’t need to distract or push into the realm of abstraction in order to excite,” says Rider.
and his odd tight pants and acc and styling does the opposite of his goal

“What scares me most is the lack of possibilities,” says Rider. “I like things that feel open-ended.”

this is a cop out for i have no clear distinct voice but will borrowing from everywhere everything i like and see in hope something will stick.

i am glad he talked because it's exposing my push back on his appointment from day one.

its great to be nice (person) but i would be nice if the vision was great !

 

[Kanzai]

Phoebe-ism, Hedi-ism, Ralph-ism here and there but where is the Ghesquière-ism (not like I want another Rabanne 2.0). The styling of his debut collection was Marie-Amélie Sauvé in a way imo.

 

[TianCouture]

Existing as Heidi must be a very, very difficult and tiresome task.

 

[style_expert]

The styling of his debut collection was Marie-Amélie Sauvé in a way imo.

I see what you mean, and if they had actually hired the OG MAS, the end result might have been at least acceptable.
For me, Brian Molloy does have his good moments at The Row, but the way he styled that debut show felt like an Emily in Paris pastiche of Celine — needless to say, that’s not a compliment.

 

[PDFSD]

Phoebe-ism, Hedi-ism, Ralph-ism here and there but where is the Ghesquière-ism (not like I want another Rabanne 2.0). The styling of his debut collection was Marie-Amélie Sauvé in a way imo.

NG touch are there we discussed them in the show tread i think with side by side looks

Brian Molloy should be a sculptor not a stylist forcing endless layer to be something interesting in the end its nothing but a pile of clothes and nothing to say.

 

[yslforever]

Ralph loathes the intellectualization of fashion,” says Rider. “The first thing he said to me at a presentation was, ‘Michael, why do you want to confuse people? You shouldn’t have to explain something. You should feel it.’ He was so right. That’s why so many people can project themselves into this lifestyle that he does, because it’s authentic.”

but he did not learn what ralph though him lol

his collection is confusion and not authentic (personal vision of a life style/world)

“Celine makes strong fashion out of real clothes and doesn’t need to distract or push into the realm of abstraction in order to excite,” says Rider.
and his odd tight pants and acc and styling does the opposite of his goal

“What scares me most is the lack of possibilities,” says Rider. “I like things that feel open-ended.”

this is a cop out for i have no clear distinct voice but will borrowing from everywhere everything i like and see in hope something will stick.

i am glad he talked because it's exposing my push back on his appointment from day one.

its great to be nice (person) but i would be nice if the vision was great !

Michael must be reassured: Ralph Lauren is at no risk to be intellectualized, ever, it's just "pretty" things, "pretty" in the most common sense.
I will wait for his second show and will evaluate it with basic and common standards too, for the sake of fairness, I am sure there will be "pretty" little things too.