Miu Miu showing in paris?

[Lena]

speachless.. what's next?
all shows moving to Paris?

PARIS — Miuccia Prada, one of the pillars of Milan Fashion Week, might be moving her Miu Miu show to Paris.

Sources here said the influential Italian designer has requested a time slot on Sunday, March 5, at the climax of Paris Fashion Week for her more affordable second line. A possible roadblock is said to be finding a suitable location for her Paris debut.

A Prada spokesman in Milan would only say the firm has optioned Feb. 24 in Milan as the date for its fall 2006 Miu Miu show.

But should Prada take the plunge, it would be a blow to Milan's much-criticized fashion week. It would also leave a gap toward the end of the Milan schedule, recently a bugbear for Italian designers given that some major editors prefer a shorter week and flee town before the shows wind up.

With a condensed five-day Milan season last September deemed a disaster by both organizers and designers, all had committed to seven days of shows this season. Giorgio Armani was tentatively looking at showing on the opening Sunday, Feb. 19. However, Armani now plans to show on Monday, Feb. 20, as the Milan calendar continues to shift.

Prada's main collection, one of the most closely watched on the circuit, is scheduled for Feb. 21 in Milan.

Meanwhile, having Miu Miu in Paris would be another coup for the fashion capital, whose show week already boasts major designers from England, Japan, Belgium and beyond. Last October, Brit Antonio Berardi and Frenchman Gilles Rosier were the latest to leave Milan and join the Paris calendar.

Miu Miu would also crowd an already jam-packed Paris week. The day it picked typically includes houses such as Louis Vuitton, Valentino and Lanvin.

Didier Grumbach, president of the French Fashion Federation that organizes the Paris shows, has long said he expects more international players to gravitate to Paris, possibly even some American brands.

Named after its creator's nickname, Miu Miu was introduced in 1992 as "anti-fashion fashion." The label has a habit of globe-trotting and moved its show to the U.S. for three seasons starting in 1994. It was one of the first of a number of secondary Italian lines to hop over to New York Fashion Week. In 1997, Miu Miu showed in London for one season before returning again to Milan.

extracts from wwd

 

[liberty33r1b]

but....why??

 

[Lena]

i think Paris sells better..
due to the crisis, buyers have been negletting Milano Fashion Week..
and who can blame them, it's so uniform and predictable

still miumiu in paris will be a huge loss for milano fashion week

 

[tricotineacetat]

YAY, I think it´s just a gain for Paris as a fashion capital and a good sign against the trend of menswear designers moving from Paris to Milan... maybe this will influence the other way around?

 

[Meg]

I find this odd.....I think Miu Miu would be much more suited to Milan and if anything, Prada more suited to Paris. Miu Miu, in my opinion, fits in much better with the 'fresher' brands in Milan like Marni, Jil Sander, Burberry Prorsum. It's so aggravating that these brands are based in one place but show in another. I don't like this

 

[Mr-Dale]

This would mean another crash for Milan. It's not the most applauded week in fashion already, but if one out of the few headliners of the week decides to leave, it would be even worse. And if Miu Miu goes, I'm sure there will be others. Which means Milan's week will get smaller, Paris' week will get bigger and then they will have shifted the problem. After a few seasons the discussion starts again and everyone starts moving back. Back to London, back to Milan, or where ever. London was left also by numerous designers and is not of the great importance it used be. I adore Paris, but a monopoly in fashion would not be good.

 

[Meg]

^
exactly mr.dale? What is so wrong with showing in London and Milan? If more labels moved there, the weeks would be better divided and buyers would still see the collection (i mean, if there are more than two good labels there). I just don't think stylewise that miu miu belongs in Paris.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Actually, I only felt this way since I knew from several very established designers in Paris that they were thinking about moving their business to Milan entirely... Yohji Yamamoto almost shut down their Parisian branch entirely and they are now selling all their lines in Milan as well, they would even go as far as to show the mainline womenswear in Milan if they could... isn´t that even worse than Miu Miu in Paris...

Just from the collection point of view, I found Miu Miu very much in tune with some other, very influential Parisian designers - namely Vanessa Bruno and Isabel Marant, but also Martine Sitbon. They certainly address a similar woman, don´t they?

I absolutely agree about the fall of London Fashion Week, I got an invite but I simply don´t know for whom to come anymore... all of the exciting people already left, as with Sophia Kokosalaki, Roland Mouret, Boudicca or Hamish Morrow (not to speak of McQueen, Stella and Hussein Chalayan) but also those that brought at least some excitement - and probably even buyers - to London - as with Matthew Williamson and Luella (even though I am not a big fan).

 

[melt977]

Do you think that there is a possibility of ending up having only 2 fashion weeks per season? One in the states (NY) and one in Europe (Paris)?

 

[Meg]

I thought williamson still showed in London? But is he in nyc now? Can't ever remember where he is. I still think there are people to get excited about for London fashion week but I do understand. I just think if big names would move back....obviously would re-inject life into it.

I do understand the comparisons to Bruno, Marant, Sitbon and others but still those labels are quite a bit smaller than Miu Miu who I feel does fit in much better with the aforementioned Marni, Prorsum and the likes. In fact, I was just getting excited again about Milan showing some fresh talent. Would hate to see it disappear.

edit: Melt, that would certainly make things easier in a way but it's also sort of sad. Is it not so much work and time and money to move your collection from your base to your showing city? I think it would make it much more difficult for young and new designers. Plus each city has it's own beat/vibe. Hate to see that disappear as well.

 

[tricotineacetat]

No, I don´t think so because the money power is still with the Italians, after all, most of the corporate brands are operating from there and they also have licensing deals with influential designers in other cities - Viktor & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan, Micheal Kors, Marc Jacobs (mens), John Galliano (mens), Antonio Berardi, Narciso Rodriguez, McQueen, Stella most of them and then others are partially owned - as well as distributed and produced - by Italian companies.

 

[melt977]

Plus each city has it's own beat/vibe. Hate to see that disappear as well.

I'd hate that too....

 

[Meg]

Well I wouldn't say most of the companies are based there.....really on Gucci Group and clearly the Prada group doesn't care about moving to another fashion capital if they are willing to relocate Miu Miu. LVMH is Paris based. But I agree the likelihood of that happening is slim.

 

[Lena]

Do you think that there is a possibility of ending up having only 2 fashion weeks per season? One in the states (NY) and one in Europe (Paris)?

..it could happen..
see buyers dont really enjoy flying from european city to city at the time of the collections, plus there are expenses involved and all companies seem in a folding mood..

true that most production is left to the Italians (who in their majority forward orders in third countries )
its a completly different issue to produce and to create..
Paris holds the reigns in creativity, thats where all the fresh trend/style directions come from, makes sense to attract the interest in times of economic crisis. Milano has managed to transform itself to a huge mass production showroom, which is not so attractive (or nessecary) at this moment, much more while buyers are urged to cut down budgets.
As for London, it already seems on the fringe of the fashion beat..

i'm not pro or against to Paris as a fashion pole, it's not something one can take sides.. when a company decides to cut down expenses, they will certainly prefer to place orders in Paris than in London or Milan.
Its only business after all... and cutting down expenses

 

[Meg]

Do you really think it's the creative centre lena? Esp. after articles we've read about how difficult it is a young designer to start up there? I think the creatively is evenly spread but Paris gets the most attention, esp. with everyone flocking there. Not sure Milan or London even are quite willing to give up their fashion weeks without a fight. But London isn't quite winning it's battle....

 

[susie_bubble]

It kills me that London fashion week has become the joke of the fashion world. Just because not many of the labels are world-renowned or of commercial interest does not mean it's not worth bothering with.

 

[Spike413]

I too was curious as to why Miu Miu would go to Paris as opposed to Prada. Prada is certainly Paris material being that it's one of the most directional and influential labels every season. Miu Miu, while influential in it's own way, doesn't pack that power that Prada does which is why I find it to be such an odd choice.

Anyway, Milan really has gone downhill since the departure of a certain superpower, and Prada also holds that title so you've got to wonder if Milan will become the next London in terms of the fashion week schedule.

 

[Lena]

Do you really think it's the creative centre lena? Esp. after articles we've read about how difficult it is a young designer to start up there? ....

yes, i still think that Paris has the fresh ideas and the best shows..
for indie designers its the best, most 'welcome' market, so much 'easier' to be accepted in Paris than in Milan..
all Milan wants from a new designer is volume orders and quick bucks, in Paris there is a more sentimental approach if they like your work..

see Nicolas Andrea Taralis and Charles Anastase..
they could only 'happen' in Paris

 

[Pastry]

yes, i still think that Paris has the fresh ideas and the best shows..
for indie designers its the best, most 'welcome' market, so much 'easier' to be accepted in Paris than in Milan..
all Milan wants from a new designer is volume orders and quick bucks, in Paris there is a more sentimental approach is they like your work..

see Nicolas Andrea Taralis and Charles Anastase..
they could only 'happen' in Paris

was just gonna say..

overall, i mean it's all been said so far. should it happen i certainly think it's a good fit. i don't even understand what labels like jil sander and marni are doing in Milan anyway. their philosphy suits the nonchalance of paris better.

italy should be left to such glamazons as Cavalli

 

[Mr-Dale]

I agree with Lena. Paris is the most creative in it's collections, ideas and the way they are worked out. I believe Paris is most responsable for the trends that end up in the shops and on the streets. Paris has the biggest influence, without doubt. And that is attractive for fashion businesses... if only because they can then say that they are in Paris. Your image immediatly changes from what ever to chic, elegant, exclusive and classy. For the consumers that is.
On a small note, if there is one Milan based designer to move to Paris... I think it is Antonio Marras. He fits the image completely... His work for Kenzo is working quite well too. He would make a bigger bang in Paris every season than he would in Milan.