Olivier Theyskens - Designer

[Cocteau Stone]

I’m happy to see him get something to further his vision, but happy isn’t the exactly right word either.

His tenure at Azzaro surmounted to nothing. His namesake just disappeared from the calendar and was more by appointment/friends of commissions. He had full capacity to take this approach as a way to inject it into the finances and reach of the name sake but is doing it now as a rebrand? Or is it a diffusion? What happened to “Olivier Theyskens” or did he accidentally sell the trademark?

The business of this is a little concerning. Excited to see what’s presented, but how long is this really going to last…

 

[LadyJunon]

I’m happy to see him get something to further his vision, but happy isn’t the exactly right word either.

His tenure at Azzaro surmounted to nothing. His namesake just disappeared from the calendar and was more by appointment/friends of commissions. He had full capacity to take this approach as a way to inject it into the finances and reach of the name sake but is doing it now as a rebrand? Or is it a diffusion? What happened to “Olivier Theyskens” or did he accidentally sell the trademark?

The business of this is a little concerning. Excited to see what’s presented, but how long is this really going to last…

I do agree that it is kind of weird:
- Azzaro's fashion division just sort of... stopped. No announcement, no press release, nothing. I sort of assumed that it was due to lack of funding, but they've been owned by L'Oréal (alongside Mugler) since 2020, so I doubt that's the case.
- As for his eponymous line, I figured that it was also a funding issue. It's was an independent label surviving on only ready-to-wear that was relaunched a couple of years before the pandemic. It wasn't going to make it.
- As for Boloria, it's an externally owned brand that he has been hired to work for as a CD.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Can somebody enlighten me of the use regarding these visuals? A few videos and photos of models wearing a large suit covered in loose basting stitches, patches and post-its does not come across as a confident preview for a brand we will not see a collection from for the next few months. The fact that Theyskens and Vanderperre are involved does not hide the fact that this gives off an awkward first impression…

 

[Kanzai]

Olivier Theyskens with Willy is an off-putting combo for me. He better goes with pillars of melancholy photography like Sarah Moon and Roversi or even younger faces like Elizaveta/Carlijn Jacobs.