Paul Harnden Shoemaker and more...

[*sayan]

hi runner,
thnx so much for all the info, your sharing.
I ve noticed the picture in your profile, very inspirational...

I think we should start a whole thread about this new feeling wich is taking more and more place in modern aesthetics. Dont u think? There are so many threads already, Im a newbie here i wouldnt want to start something unless people share the love.

im making my research. Trying to connect photografy, art history or even texts.

sayan

 

[surver]

dear runner,

so do you have more info on paul harnden? from things such as full catalog/images of his collections to scope of his work to make of his atelier, background, etc?

 

[raijin]

He often buries his shoes for one year before selling them.

 

[AlexN]

He often buries his shoes for one year before selling them.

Interesting concept...certainly something I'd never think of doing if I made clothing/shoes. Imagine if Karl buried the Chanel haute couture dresses for a year before the show.

 

[raijin]

That would be really interesting, I think.

Maybe if I become a rich man I'll try it..

 

[brian]

Imagine if Karl buried the Chanel haute couture dresses for a year before the show.

they'd look great.

 

[softgrey]

i thought that some of the carpe diem stuff was buried...
is this a new trend...?...

 

[Sybarite]

Interesting concept...certainly something I'd never think of doing if I made clothing/shoes. Imagine if Karl buried the Chanel haute couture dresses for a year before the show.

Maybe Karl should start by burying himself.

 

[kit]

Maybe Karl should start by burying himself.

I don't think the soil could tolerate his acidity , it's already got acid rain to contend with !!!

 

[runner]

hi sayan, thank you
I'm sure people here will share, whether the founder of the thread is new or not, if it is interesting. and I would like to participate if I can be of any help.

hi surver, when I find those I'll post them as soon as possible.

you are welcome AlexN, sayan

 

[surver]

thanks runner. i'm really curious about this paul harnden dude.

 

[kit]

i thought that some of the carpe diem stuff was buried...
is this a new trend...?...

I think it's all to do with the ' luxury ' artisanal thing that Tom Ford blathered on about in Paris at some conference for luxury goods manufacturers a couple of years ago . He maintained that high - end consumers are demanding unique , artisan - made pieces that they are unlikely to see others wearing , carrying etc etc .

For Ford this meant Gucci mtm suits for men and bespoke Alexander McQueen suits tailored by Huntsman , the most expensive bespoke tailors on Savile Row .

For people like Mauritzio Altieri , Luca Laurini of Label Under Construction , Carol Christian Poell and Vincenzo de Cottis of Haute , this ' artisanal ' quality is achieved by experiminting with textiles , leather , knit etc , to achieve a unique quality that is time consuming , labour intensive and usually prohibitively expensive .

The point to remember is that Hussein Chalayan began the ' bury it in the soil for 6 months ' technique in his graduation collection at Central St. Martins College , and I have my suspicion that even he was plagiarising ideas of Martin Margiela and the other deconstructionists .

This ' fashion kick ' reached its ludicrous apotheosis at the high - end in the ludicrously expensive ' destroyed ' jeans by Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme . Hundreds of pounds for jeans that could have been found after 150 years down the bottom of a gold mine in the far west of the USA , treated by hand in Japan to look like Skid Row throwoffs .

It's obviously a youth kick , judging by the vehemence with which some youthful members of TFS defend their favourite exclusive ' objet trouve ' designers .

It's all a bit beyond me , and certainly my pocket , but perhaps this IS the future and soon EVERYONE will dress like a hobo or bag-lady .

 

[*sayan]

here are some P. Harnden shoes,
I am fascinated by the Louis shoes..really amazing weathering treatments too.

 

[*sayan]

here they are

 

[kit]

Thanks for the pics , Sayan


These shoes are ok . but I would prefer a pair of bespoke ones from John Lobb , London , for whom Paul Harnden used to work as one of their craftsman - cobblers - shoemakers ..........

 

[raijin]

Dear kit,

C Diem should have started quite a few years before Chalayan's graduation.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

Chalayan graduated '93...

 

[raijin]

I guess its debatable then who did it first.

I believe C Diem officially started a year or so after his graduation, but Altieri was already working with leathers. (he started chrome hearts).

 

[surver]

in this light, wasn't rei kawakubo boiling wool to alterate tailored form like ions ago? and issey miyake's various experiments with fabric and the body, etc...

 

[softgrey]

seriously...

i think that deconstruction is enjoying a sort of renaissance lately...but anyone who is old enough or has done the research will realize that it is certainly not a new concept...

if anything...i think this is at least the second generation of designers working this way...