Peter Copping - Designer, Creative Director of Lanvin

[GoldenPetals]

I mean he's certainly the best appointee since Elbaz, no? Although I really didn't mind Bouchra Jarrar and thought the criticism she got was a little overblown.

 

[bc collector]

Finally an experienced designer is given a chance and called back from the bench, I'm getting really fed up with kids messing up with jobs they're clearly not ready for. I hope it's a trend.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

We love to see it!!!

 

[jeremydante]

Excited to see what he does at Lanvin, it was feeling shakey there when they let Future collaborate on a collection.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I just hope he doesn’t get stuck in that stuffy lady like bourgeoisie mindset he had at ODLR. He needs to bring a fashion edge to it, otherwise it’s going to be the same old same old.

 

[Lola701]

I just hope he doesn’t get stuck in that stuffy lady like bourgeoisie mindset he had at ODLR. He needs to bring a fashion edge to it, otherwise it’s going to be the same old same old.

Judging by his Nina Ricci, don’t worry!

 

[JohannesL]

but even with his talent, he doesn’t have the most attractive track record to incite anyone to take over a house…

I guess they want a safe bet (one of the reason Oscar chose him as successor) who can continue what Alber left behind instead of trying to push the boundaries.

 

[Lola701]

I guess they want a safe bet (one of the reason Oscar chose him as successor) who can continue what Alber left behind instead of trying to push the boundaries.

I don’t see it like that.
I actually think that in order to build a long standing brand identity, it’s better to have designers that speaks the same language, even if it’s with a different accent.

Lanvin has been in trouble for 8 years now. And let’s be honest, except for the Alber years, we have to go back to the Claude Montana era to remember a time when the brand was seen highly.

Alber has created modern Lanvin. It took time for them to realize that but going towards his direction is the way to go.

What is seen as safe for me has more to do with brand integrity. And Peter copping is doing HF. ODLR wasn’t edgy enough for him.

It’s very difficult to find a balance between being edgy and having a lady like aesthetic. He is really one of the few who got that in him. I loved him Nina Ricci as much as I loved Pagliangula’s Vionnet! What a time it was!

 

[tricotineacetat]

I agonized for him having to report to Demna at Balenciaga but I guess he's not the only storied designer we may have formerly known as a creative director now working in senior positions under people like J.W. Anderson or others of even lesser talent...

From that perspective, I am pleased to hear they have chosen him. I strongly disliked what Bruno Sialelli came up with as well as the tendency of all these young designers being chosen in an attempt to speak to a Gen Z customer - We see what a fiasco that has caused at Gucci so I can only hope Lanvin's choice with Peter Copping signals a change in the industry and the possible comeback of other designers we haven't heard of in a while, back into the limelight.

 

[yslforever]

I agonized for him having to report to Demna at Balenciaga but I guess he's not the only storied designer we may have formerly known as a creative director now working in senior positions under people like J.W. Anderson or others of even lesser talent...

From that perspective, I am pleased to hear they have chosen him. I strongly disliked what Bruno Sialelli came up with as well as the tendency of all these young designers being chosen in an attempt to speak to a Gen Z customer - We see what a fiasco that has caused at Gucci so I can only hope Lanvin's choice with Peter Copping signals a change in the industry and the possible comeback of other designers we haven't heard of in a while, back into the limelight.

Yes it was harsh but in the same time, he had the very rare opportunity to set a Couture atelier from scratch with some of the most talented workers in Paris, I am speaking about the seamstresses and tailors I know at Balenciaga.
I really hope he will be able to take some with him at Lanvin, I am ready for a demi-couture floor at the Fbg St Honoré Lanvin building, no need fro Couture now, its not viable.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

After being a 2-time creative director, I have a lot of respect for him for taking the Balenciaga gig. I wonder if he needed the cash or was just bored and wanted to work.

Yes, his days at Ricci and Oscar were just okay compared to Marc's Vuitton or JW's Loewe, but I can't imagine Olivier Theyskens also being a 2-time creative director working under Demna. Just the thick skin and sheer determination he has got is quite admirable

 

[rowjellies]

Yes it was harsh but in the same time, he had the very rare opportunity to set a Couture atelier from scratch with some of the most talented workers in Paris, I am speaking about the seamstresses and tailors I know at Balenciaga.
I really hope he will be able to take some with him at Lanvin, I am ready for a demi-couture floor at the Fbg St Honoré Lanvin building, no need fro Couture now, its not viable.

Balenciaga haute couture resources are probably way higher than what he was working with at Oscar de la Renta or even Nina Ricci. The conglomerate resources are no joke.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Yes it was harsh but in the same time, he had the very rare opportunity to set a Couture atelier from scratch with some of the most talented workers in Paris, I am speaking about the seamstresses and tailors I know at Balenciaga.
I really hope he will be able to take some with him at Lanvin, I am ready for a demi-couture floor at the Fbg St Honoré Lanvin building, no need fro Couture now, its not viable.

What interests me the most in such a case is what kind of lasting infrastructure and savoire-faire remains with a designer the moment he moves elsewhere - Case in point, with someone like Anthony Vaccarello who must have strongly benefitted from having the tailoring building blocks from Hedi to work with when he took over Saint Laurent. I had the huge privilege many years ago to learn from a YSL Premier d'atelier, if even just a short amount of time, and consider that a key moment in the formation of my fashion training.

I was not very much taken by what Balenciaga's couture looked like and even less so in this most recent collection, which makes me even more curious about what Peter Copping's design for Lanvin will look like!

 

[yslforever]

Balenciaga haute couture resources are probably way higher than what he was working with at Oscar de la Renta or even Nina Ricci. The conglomerate resources are no joke.

They hired 100 people solely to open their couture atelier before the first show, people who started their apprenticeship at YSL, Gaultier and Lacroix couture then went to work at Chanel and Dior HC, some to Alaia too, and they added 50 qualified people the second year with nearly 40 new apprentices. So it's certainly much more than Ricci or OdlR had.
They took the creation of Balenciaga Couture very seriously, too bad it was for Demna...
I fully understand that someone like Peter, not completely ego-driven, would like to be part of that and head the department, just for the experience and the skills and the connections.

 

[Lola701]

What interests me the most in such a case is what kind of lasting infrastructure and savoire-faire remains with a designer the moment he moves elsewhere - Case in point, with someone like Anthony Vaccarello who must have strongly benefitted from having the tailoring building blocks from Hedi to work with when he took over Saint Laurent. I had the huge privilege many years ago to learn from a YSL Premier d'atelier, if even just a short amount of time, and consider that a key moment in the formation of my fashion training.

I was not very much taken by what Balenciaga's couture looked like and even less so in this most recent collection, which makes me even more curious about what Peter Copping's design for Lanvin will look like!

We have to keep in mind that Peter Copping has worked all his career at French fashion houses. And, the seamstresses in a lot of fashion brands comes from the Ateliers of old Couture houses. He did Sonia Rykiel, Louis Vuitton, Nina Ricci…So 3 European brands where he was already familiar with high standards of quality in terms of execution.

He is experienced himself.

But when you look at his work for Vuitton and Nina Ricci or even ODlr, it seems like that’s his sensibility.
But at Balenciaga, he was definitely following Demna’s vision. He is good at Flou and Balenciaga is so terrible at Flou.

I’m curious to see the influence of Cristobal in his aesthetic now though! Because Balenciaga Couture was for a large part reproductions of Cristobal’s archives.

 

[lowfive1715]

Why did he leave ODLR? It came so sudden.

 

[yslforever]

A little bit more about his personal taste :
- his interior in Normandy
- https://www.habituallychic.luxury/2017/05/revisiting-peter-copping/
I always judge the houses, so I am pretty sure he has the necessary level of refinement for Lanvin, just hope he also has a vision of what to do, what Lanvin needs and what is adequate to the public in 2025.

 

[tricotineacetat]

They hired 100 people solely to open their couture atelier before the first show, people who started their apprenticeship at YSL, Gaultier and Lacroix couture then went to work at Chanel and Dior HC, some to Alaia too, and they added 50 qualified people the second year with nearly 40 new apprentices. So it's certainly much more than Ricci or OdlR had.
They took the creation of Balenciaga Couture very seriously, too bad it was for Demna...
I fully understand that someone like Peter, not completely ego-driven, would like to be part of that and head the department, just for the experience and the skills and the connections.

When I keep in mind how very few people the Rue Nollet ateliers of Rochas consisted during Olivier Theyskens time with the house (the only time it could be considered a house, since the days of Marcel Rochas!) it‘s laughable to what result Demna used these resources!

Demna‘s so-called couture becomes a worse and worse joke, the more we learn from within. About time this travesty comes to an end!

 

[LadyJunon]

The appointement of Copping was definitely the final act to Lanvin's return to the romantic modernism of Alber's tenure. They were already signs of that strategy with the changes in Sialelli's aesthetic and Bernard Dubois' work on their retail spaces.

Copping should be a very good fit for Lanvin. His tastes veer towards the pretty and ladylike, which should resonate very well on the shop floor. That said, he'll definitely need the right team to help him modernise his aesthetics. Looking at the interim collections, the design team seems to be very strong, so it's a matter of choosing the right stylist and art director for shows and advertising.

His first move should be to find a cash-cow to support the company. There's this bag with a metal cat handle that they could push with a beautiful ad campaign. According to WWD, his first collection is for PF25 and I'm assuming that a runway debut will folow that, so he can do it then.

I agree with @yslforever. They should take advantage of his experience at Balenciaga and put together a dedicated Couture atelier. They don't need to do Couture collections, but a small Demi-Couture line for their flagship stores should do wonders for elevating the brand.

 

[LadyJunon]

The title of this article by Dazed makes me ill:
Is Lanvin about to become the new Balenciaga?