Peter Do - Designer, Creative Director of Helmut Lang

[Lola701]

^^^ Hedi does come to mind as being influenced by Helmut. However, I always saw early-2000 Gaultier men's in Hedi’s foundation and as a greater influence: Sharply, impeccably tailored and classic bespoke at its roots; an almost idiosyncratic marriage of traditional, proper with the more archaic sensibility both in design and color-palette; the most luxurious, even couture-y approach to texture and fabric; and an masterclass in dramatic silhouette that’s extremely commercial as separates; and both are very, eternally French. The distinction was that Gaultier ’s tend to be always more fantastical in presentation, while HEcdi’s Dior Homme was very much the zeitgeist of how a certain generation of guys were dressing and identifying with: Skaters, indie bands, junior creatives. WIth a collection like “Luster”, it was very early-2000 Gaultier. And Riccardo’s men's was straightup, wholesale Gaultier men’s— down to the casting of classically gorgeous multiracial men. He wasn’t even hiding it.

Maybe…
For me, Hedi has always been very Helmut coded: the black & white, the underground music scene, the very particular link with a city, the commissioned soundtracks, the castings and the way their presentations were very specific.
I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that Hedi was a customer of Helmut when he was working for Jose Levy and Jean Jacques Picart. And also how real their approach to fashion was.

I don’t see that much Gaultier even if that idea of androgyny is something that Gaultier played with. But I think Gaultier is insanely more French in his approach to fashion than Hedi.

But indeed when you see Riccardo Tisci, is obvious: Gaultier, Gianni, Lang.

For me, the main thing that separates Hedi and Helmut is how asexual Hedi’s characters looks. So much inspirations from the Rock Scene and yet, I think that Hedi’s woman will always look like a groupie and his man like a teenage rocker.

Because Helmut dressed men and women, there was a great sense of confidence that exuded sensuality.

 

[StylishCynic]

Has the experiment failed again? Helmut Lang hasn't presented anything for Spring 2025.

Do also deactivated his personal IG, which was heavily promoting HL over his own label.

 

[Thefrenchy]

What they did to this brand is shameful.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Helmut Lang is one of the most difficult brands to design for because it was a real moment in Time it represents a moment in time and the people really don't exist anymore you can't just look back you have to look forward with the aesthetic which is very difficult

 

[brandon J pierre]

There's something cool and sexy about it which Peter couldn't grasp his woman is not cool she strict she's well dressed but she's not cool you don't want to go to a bar with her.

 

[Lola701]

Helmut Lang is one of the most difficult brands to design for because it was a real moment in Time it represents a moment in time and the people really don't exist anymore you can't just look back you have to look forward with the aesthetic which is very difficult

Is it? Or the owners don’t put enough money for the right talents to come?
It’s always a half project anyway.
Helmut Lang is European fashion at it core. So it needs to sell that fantasy from a HF POV to sell jeans and stuff.

What’s the point of having a barely decent overpriced American sportswear at high prices at Helmut Lang?

They should maybe follow the FRAME model for a bit and rely on archives. And they should relaunch the fragrances once and for all.

The writings were on the wall.
Do was presenting in Paris when Helmut Lang was in NYC. Talk about relevance.

They should call Italo Zucchelli to consult for them.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Is it? Or the owners don’t put enough money for the right talents to come?
It’s always a half project anyway.
Helmut Lang is European fashion at it core. So it needs to sell that fantasy from a HF POV to sell jeans and stuff.

What’s the point of having a barely decent overpriced American sportswear at high prices at Helmut Lang?

They should maybe follow the FRAME model for a bit and rely on archives. And they should relaunch the fragrances once and for all.

The writings were on the wall.
Do was presenting in Paris when Helmut Lang was in NYC. Talk about relevance.

They should call Italo Zucchelli to consult for them.

Well yes I think the most important thing is to go back a little bit on an archive I know people don't like to do that but the archive is so fabulous and it can be modernized with the right designer.

 

[Phuel]

Unfortunately, greater talent will not take on this brand: It’s been so relentlessly cheapened by such lesser talents, that other than OG Helmut Lang being sought by a new generation of collectors, no one will touch whatever is next in “doing” Helmut Lang.

And Helmut is absolutely the most difficult brand to be interpreted in the right spirit. Perhaps not so much by the greater talents of the past, but of the newcomer lessers of today. A.F. Vondeverst would have stood a chance in progressing the Helmut sensibility without devolving into flat caricature…. Phoebe and Hedi have been the only talents working today that are capable to show that they understand him. You know, that removable flap hanging of the shoulder of some of her recent jackets looked so familiar… Maybe it was an homage to Helmut’s 2002 A/W offering? Helmut’s versions were glorious and evoked a glamorous WWll— even a French revolutionary officer’s coat, reimagined as a luxurious and couturey offering. Phoebe’s was less convincing, but still interesting.

The brand is too deceptively sophisticated for the basic cartoony sensibilities of these times, as clearly been shown by all the lessers that have attempted at the brand. It needs to be put away until better fashion days come around again.

 

[brandon J pierre]

This was horrific

 

[LadyJunon]

Another issue with trying to revive Helmut Lang is that their approach is just too American. HL heavily references American sportswear, but that harsh slickness is distinctly Germanic. Americans have a more relaxed approach to design. If Fast Retailing really wants to revive HL, they need to use Courreges as an example.

This was horrific

View attachment 1321118

If the construction was better, it could've worked. Unfortunately, it isn't, so it just looks like sloppy trash. That bra bag is kinda cool though.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Another issue with trying to revive Helmut Lang is that their approach is just too American. HL heavily references American sportswear, but that harsh slickness is distinctly Germanic. Americans have a more relaxed approach to design. If Fast Retailing really wants to revive HL, they need to use Courreges as an example.

If the construction was better, it could've worked. Unfortunately, it isn't, so it just looks like sloppy trash. That bra bag is kinda cool though.

I remember years ago I had a Vogue magazine when I was a kid and lang started doing custom suiting I believe the mock-ups had 42 sizing measurements for each body type. It was couture in New York City. The reason he fit New York so well was because he actually did have a European flair that wasn't overblown and that's what made him great. I agree with you

 

[Phuel]

Quite liked Shayne’s Helmut LMFAO It was horrifically a mockery of Helmut— and hilariously unintentional, like porny costumes for Amanda Lapore and her gang of OF performers. (…Remember someone pointed out the one male model that caught my eye was indeed a p*rnstar LOL)

Anyone that proposes more cartoon bondage/punks/military for the brand— or any fashion brand for that matter, needs to be blacklisted from the industry asap.

Maybe not Italo, Lola. But a more classic, studied, and disciplined refinement would be a worthy risk for th brand. Frankly, Helmut was not the embodiment of luxurious and a masterclass in tailoring and construction, despite the rose-tinted nostalgia. In his final days, his offering of gowns and a more couturey luxury may perhaps tinted people’s impression of him. But he was never as an impeccable tailor and dressmaker as Tom and Stefano at YSL, for example, at least not with his RTW. That would be such a gorgeous risk for the brand after all these juvenile takes. Maybe in another decade… LOL… weeps...

 

[90sfan]

Wait, is Peter Do finally Peter Did not at Helmut?!?

 

[andrew]

all i need from these faux-langs are remakes of accessories/outerwear/denim that dorks are hawking for 10x retail on grailed. this can't be that hard.

 

[brandon J pierre]

all i need from these faux-langs are remakes of accessories/outerwear/denim that dorks are hawking for 10x retail on grailed. this can't be that hard.

Right 😂

 

[velvetandsilk]

The problem is that they all think that it's an avant-garde fashion house and they try to do some weird, pointless things, when in reality it's clothes of a slightly more crazy bourgeois. These people don't understand the idea of the European bourgeoisie, the lifestyle and wandering aimlessly around the city on a free day. They also lack the Germanic aesthetic sense, which is very specific.

 

[velvetandsilk]

This is my favorite Helmut silhouette from Helmut Lang Spring 1998. This material that imitates a tuxedo cummerbund is actually a jacket that is designed to be folded.

Vogue.com

 

[LadyJunon]

The problem is that they all think that it's an avant-garde fashion house and they try to do some weird, pointless things, when in reality it's clothes of a slightly more crazy bourgeois. These people don't understand the idea of the European bourgeoisie, the lifestyle and wandering aimlessly around the city on a free day. They also lack the Germanic aesthetic sense, which is very specific.

I would describe HL more as high-end urban than bourgeois. That said, it's still far from the avant-garde ideal that's often placed on the house. Sure, he made bulletproof vests and dresses out of ribbons, but his brand was based off creating a modernist wardrobe.

 

[rowjellies]

Any one have tea on what’s happening inside Helmut Lang?

 

[Kennnnn]

This is my favorite Helmut silhouette from Helmut Lang Spring 1998. This material that imitates a tuxedo cummerbund is actually a jacket that is designed to be folded.

Vogue.com

Thank you for the memory. I had that jacket, which was great, but so much more chic as a cummerbund.