Peter Do - Designer, Creative Director of Helmut Lang

[Lola701]

^^^ Hedi does come to mind as being influenced by Helmut. However, I always saw early-2000 Gaultier men's in Hedi’s foundation and as a greater influence: Sharply, impeccably tailored and classic bespoke at its roots; an almost idiosyncratic marriage of traditional, proper with the more archaic sensibility both in design and color-palette; the most luxurious, even couture-y approach to texture and fabric; and an masterclass in dramatic silhouette that’s extremely commercial as separates; and both are very, eternally French. The distinction was that Gaultier ’s tend to be always more fantastical in presentation, while HEcdi’s Dior Homme was very much the zeitgeist of how a certain generation of guys were dressing and identifying with: Skaters, indie bands, junior creatives. WIth a collection like “Luster”, it was very early-2000 Gaultier. And Riccardo’s men's was straightup, wholesale Gaultier men’s— down to the casting of classically gorgeous multiracial men. He wasn’t even hiding it.

Maybe…
For me, Hedi has always been very Helmut coded: the black & white, the underground music scene, the very particular link with a city, the commissioned soundtracks, the castings and the way their presentations were very specific.
I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that Hedi was a customer of Helmut when he was working for Jose Levy and Jean Jacques Picart. And also how real their approach to fashion was.

I don’t see that much Gaultier even if that idea of androgyny is something that Gaultier played with. But I think Gaultier is insanely more French in his approach to fashion than Hedi.

But indeed when you see Riccardo Tisci, is obvious: Gaultier, Gianni, Lang.

For me, the main thing that separates Hedi and Helmut is how asexual Hedi’s characters looks. So much inspirations from the Rock Scene and yet, I think that Hedi’s woman will always look like a groupie and his man like a teenage rocker.

Because Helmut dressed men and women, there was a great sense of confidence that exuded sensuality.