Peter Hawkings - Designer

^ fully agreed with you dear and good riddance, I was skeptical since day one about him.

Vauthier is free or they will snatch Vaccarello (hope not).
 
^ fully agreed with you dear and good riddance, I was skeptical since day one about him.

Vauthier is free or they will snatch Vaccarello (hope not).
Vauthier is over there mingling with ADR lol. I can only hope.
But yes, they needs a stronger voice. Tom Ford menswear is very consistent anyway. They haven’t changed the shapes or anything like that since Tom left and I believe most of the team in menswear has remained the same. They can just elevate Hawkings number 2 to design director.

Any brand that has ambitions of growth bet on womenswear and you needs a strong voice in womenswear. And for god sake, a better accessories team.

The campaigns are great but that’s it. So no show in September…
 
Realistically, the first designer that comes to mind is Anthony Vaccarello, which means top-tier image direction for mediocre clothing. That said, he probably has a non-compete agreement, so it could be someone from the YSL team.
 
Well that was quick! I’m sure they consulted Tom and wouldn’t be surprised if he actually point them out to the right (YSL studio) direction who to pick and appoint…
 
That's very random, I'm curious to know what's the reason behind. Surely can't be related to anything regarding performance as it's too early for that.

I don't care about this brand without Tom anyway, so best of luck to whoever comes next...

I wouldn't mind if that brand was design-studio led. Tom is still around and is aura is still quite strong in the industry, no one will ever compare. And if any designer tries to make it theirs, TF will be quick to jump in to say something...
 
That's very random, I'm curious to know what's the reason behind. Surely can't be related to anything regarding performance as it's too early for that.

I don't care about this brand without Tom anyway, so best of luck to whoever comes next...

I wouldn't mind if that brand was design-studio led. Tom is still around and is aura is still quite strong in the industry, no one will ever compare. And if any designer tries to make it theirs, TF will be quick to jump in to say something...
He stated in his interview that he wants a shock and that he is ready for it.
He said Hawkings collection was good and safe so if he wants something more fashion forward, I doubt something studio-led would make him proud.

I mean i know it would frustrate me to see better interpretations of my work in other brands than at my own…
 
Oh, I cannot really say I am surprised, but it seems so short. I am curious to see how this develops.
 
I don’t even know what to say

Same. I find it all rather bizarre to be honest.
I thought they handled the transition to Peter pretty well thus far, in a pretty organic and not too hyped way compared to some other brands.

At this point in the market what almost any brand needs is consistency and to be excluded from the extreme volatile rotation of creative directors.

Terrible decision but good luck to whoever comes next...
 
It seems like a bad move to me but it is what it is. Ego is a hella of a drug Tom for sure pulled a YSL! Not because he was worse then Tom but because he was better. It's only been one season all together two shows. I thought he was moving it into a brand that could really compete with Hermes. It's going to be a tart mess.

I guess the main reason right now is competition is over the top and they need to make a big splash advertisement everything is advertisement and none of his celebrity look good in Tom Ford anymore they all look really terrible. The two shows in my opinion were absolutely fabulous.
 
Same. I find it all rather bizarre to be honest.
I thought they handled the transition to Peter pretty well thus far, in a pretty organic and not too hyped way compared to some other brands.

At this point in the market what almost any brand needs is consistency and to be excluded from the extreme volatile rotation of creative directors.

Terrible decision but good luck to whoever comes next...
It's got to be that interview and the met gala, got to be! It's ego . Italians don't play around Tom Ford made a call and that's it. 💇‍♂️✂️
 
Since this is relevant to Peter's departure, here are the pages of Zegna Group's corporate presentation containing the strategy for Tom Ford Fashion:

ERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-GROUP-Corporate-Presentation-35.jpgERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-GROUP-Corporate-Presentation-36.jpgERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-GROUP-Corporate-Presentation-37.jpgERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-GROUP-Corporate-Presentation-38.jpgERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-GROUP-Corporate-Presentation-39.jpgERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-GROUP-Corporate-Presentation-40.jpgERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-GROUP-Corporate-Presentation-41.jpgERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-GROUP-Corporate-Presentation-42.jpg
Zegna

According to the presentation, here are Zegna's mid-term plans for TFF:
- Develop the brand's womenswear using the codes in the menswear
- Focus on womenswear, daywear, leather goods and shoes
- Expand the brand's reach beyond the domestic US market
- Double the number of flagship stores from 51 to 90-100
These plans obviously imply that Zegna plans is to transititon TFF from a somewhat niche designer label into a heritage luxury brand with Hawkings acting as a level of palateable consistency throughout the period. With him gone and the very likely chance of them outsourcing a successor, they now have to do this strategy alongside building a new aesthetic.

Tom Ford definitely prioritises "FASH-UN" and image, but doing so really requires both a forward-thinking designer and a open-minded luxury clientele. This was something Gucci had, but TF didn't, especially in the later years. The brand's collections, specifically its womenswear, were often a target for criticism its "outdated" image. Usually, I'd ignore this, but this criticism is reflected in the brand's numbers (30% is relatively small in the context of a woman-targeted industry). The TF woman has always been more like a love interest of the TF man rather than a main character.
 

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