Phoebe Philo - Designer

[GoldenTribe]

Also, it's looking like at least some of it is shot on iphone?! Check the guy in the glasses reflection and the resolution... https://www.phoebephilo.com/media/catalog/product/A/D/AD02_AT0004_812BN_4_ac4c.jpg

Good catch of the reflection, but you can tell definitively from the angle of the sunglasses that the guy holding the iphone didn't take the photo we are looking at (the lens would have to be 90° head-on to reflect the camera to itself), he is probably just documenting the shoot.

 

[fizfizfiz]

I think that Philo is off to a good start, but I'm concerned about longevity. The prices are really steep for a newly established label and while it's known that her fans have been saving up for months, I'm unsure whether she'll be able to sustain that for each release. While the low product quantities help with that issue, I worry that people will quickly become frustrated with the whole ordeal.

The fact that some bags cost roughly two or three times the price of a Galleria bag by Prada or the staunchly bon ton Lady Dior by Dior makes me wonder if Philo may have attempted to carve a niche of supposedly ultra luxe category by setting these slightly preposterous prices.

 

[Lola701]

According to Le Monde, the production was limited to 100 pieces/references. It wasn’t confirmed if it was 100 pieces/size or overall 100 pieces/items. Either way, it’s quite small and niche indeed.

LVMH has a minority stake only so it makes sense for Phoebe to keep it exclusive and tight.

 

[StylishCynic]

BoF noted in their preview of the collection that, "There is no branding other than her name so discreet on a small label that it underscores her own instinctive reticence."

Here's the brand packaging:

Source: Instagram @_vale_t_in

 

[chinsumo]

 

[Nimsay]

100 is extremely low.

That person may be correct. They purposefully under-produced to ensure sell-out. That also explains the high price - fewer items to spread out costs. Im sure this wont be restocked.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Already? That's some express delivery

 

[style_expert]

As much as I liked the lookbook images and mood in the first instance, through reading some of your posts I have to reconsider parts of her overall proposal.
My issue is not so much with the collection itself but more with the whole set-up of the brand. Even though the majority has sold out, there are still some items available in multiple sizes as of now, especially in the higher priced range of the more elaborate, 'fashion-forward' pieces.

Given the price range I find it disappointing there's hardly any refinement in the way it can be purchased/consumed. There's nothing different or innovative in that aspect, in fact it's rather back to basics with limited product photos etc. Perhaps that's unimportant for the hardcore Philo fans, but if you're working two + years on a direct to consumer website, at least make it properly functioning. The packaging and the minimal branding is fine but nothing out of the ordinary from what we've seen so far.

Then the whole way it's set up with FOMO purchasing is kind of the opposite to the whole idea she's proposing of a timeless, deliberately chosen wardrobe. I'm curious about the return rate but I guess clients feel so 'lucky' to have scored a piece in the first place, they will think twice before returning it. So much for basic level consumer psychology.

I don't know but if I were to spend 7000 euros on a bag or nearly 9000 euros on a fringed leather jacket, I'd love to do it in an environment matching the pricing where you can take the time to feel the materials, learn more about the product and simply consider it all in your own pace...and a glass of champagne!
As some have suggested, I think a physical retail space would be very beneficial. This whole 'drop' model is fine now but for how long will it work?

 

[chinsumo]

This coat reminds me of the Balenciaga one from 2002

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I don't know but if I were to spend 7000 euros on a bag or nearly 9000 euros on a fringed leather jacket, I'd love to do it in an environment matching the pricing where you can take the time to feel the materials, learn more about the product and simply consider it all in your own pace...and a glass of champagne!
As some have suggested, I think a physical retail space would be very beneficial. This whole 'drop' model is fine now but for how long will it work?

I feel the same way but I think at this point in time the demographic that actually can blow 9000 euros on a leather jacket doesn't care. A lot of them have people that personal shop or pull stuff from stores to bring to their house for them anyways. Plus returns are free and their people can ship it off for them. That being said, a real showroom for this would be a hit for sure

 

[Urban Stylin]

Daria really looks like her there.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Perhaps she should apply the drop strategy to stores. Don't settle in a physical store but create random pop-ups appearing unexpectedly around the globe in curated locations.

Kicking off online is okay but at some point people will want something a bit more experiential and an immersion into the world she's proposing. And want to try stuff on in person!

Some sad lookbook in portrait mode won't cut it in the long run.

 

[Lola701]

100 is extremely low.

That person may be correct. They purposefully under-produced to ensure sell-out. That also explains the high price - fewer items to spread out costs. Im sure this wont be restocked.

More than that, it also means little to no deadstock and no sales, so the products keeps the same value on the market.

In a world where people are looking for exclusivity, this is maybe the best strategy yet.

Perhaps she should apply the drop strategy to stores. Don't settle in a physical store but create random pop-ups appearing unexpectedly around the globe in curated locations.

Kicking off online is okay but at some point people will want something a bit more experiential and an immersion into the world she's proposing. And want to try stuff on in person!

Some sad lookbook in portrait mode won't cut it in the long run.

I think in a long run that strategy will be hard to substain. One thing those DTC drops will do is build a customer base.

One thing that I’m curious to see when there will be time to have a retail presence is the production.

I was thinking that it would have been logical as the brand has the support of LVMH to have an exclusivity for La Samaritaine but it may also mean produce more. Because showrooms are limited to professionals…

I really think that shows and retail participate in the setting of an identity and it also help create a bigger relationship with the clients.

But her challenge here will be to make everything work.

 

[LadyJunon]

This coat reminds me of the Balenciaga one from 2002

Ghesquière right now:

 

[fizfizfiz]

BoF noted in their preview of the collection that, "There is no branding other than her name so discreet on a small label that it underscores her own instinctive reticence."

Here's the brand packaging:
View attachment 1240199
Source: Instagram @_vale_t_in

I am really surprised. I thought the stacked logotype would only be implemented on the website. No brand names come to my mind that follow this graphic design trope when it comes to styling their logotype. Obviously, there's a rather small group that add the name of the city associated with the brand below their main logotype (I am thinking of Prada Milano or Hermès Paris), but I can't think of a brand that dares to use visual discontinuity by setting its logotype in two different lines of text.

Thank you very much for the images! : )

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Bottega Veneta is stacked sometimes

 

[fizfizfiz]

I am growing more and more suspicious about the veracity of data regarding some of the sold items. The striking sleeveless red dress with embellishments will no doubt feature in many a fashion editorial in the months to come. With a high-yet-not-insane price, I would have thought that many stylists and fans of the brand would have exhausted supplies.

Does anyone have the same thoughts about the weird status of the dress? An obvious pièce de résistance and object of desire that, mysteriously, seems to remain easily available.

 

[fizfizfiz]

Bottega Veneta is stacked sometimes

Thanks for correcting me! A case could also be made for the Yves Saint Laurent logotype drawn by Cassandre as another logotype in which letters are not only stacked... they also overlap! Although it is 62 years old, a slight variation of it is still in use nowadays and features prominently on trendy hand bags.

However, I remain convinced that a single line logotype suggests stability and trustworthiness. At least for some people, of course.

 

[Drusilla_]

I am really surprised. I thought the stacked logotype would only be implemented on the website. No brand names come to my mind that follow this graphic design trope when it comes to styling their logotype. Obviously, there's a rather small group that add the name of the city associated with the brand below their main logotype (I am thinking of Prada Milano or Hermès Paris), but I can't think of a brand that dares to use visual discontinuity by setting its logotype in two different lines of text.

Thank you very much for the images! : )

There's also Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen (on their store banners and some ad campaigns/paper tags with the lower line bigger/in uppercase to emphasise the McQueen name), Miu Miu (on some recent Wander bags), Moschino Cheap&Chic, Margaret Howell (garment labels) and Acne Studios (on some labels with the new logo).

Phoebe's choosing to stack that logo is not super common but it's also not unheard of among brands that have more than one word for a name.











edit: image sources: Kerry Taylor auctions (Westwood label), 1stdibs (Moschino label), playful-dc (Margaret Howell and Acne labels), Vogue (McQueen store pic), farfetch (Miu Miu bag)

 

[Lola701]

I am growing more and more suspicious about the veracity of data regarding some of the sold items. The striking sleeveless red dress with embellishments will no doubt feature in many a fashion editorial in the months to come. With a high-yet-not-insane price, I would have thought that many stylists and fans of the brand would have exhausted supplies.

Does anyone have the same thoughts about the weird status of the dress? An obvious pièce de résistance and object of desire that, mysteriously, seems to remain easily available.

It’s a very beautiful piece but it’s not the most « practical » in a sense.
I wanted to buy that dress but at 2900€, for such a strong and recognizable piece, it was more clever to buy separates. The popelin tshirt and the hand combed skirt together costs less and will allow more wears and combinations with pieces in my wardrobe.

With Christmas, New Year’s Eve or even Thanksgiving those pieces will eventually be sold but it’s like eveningwear. That being said, the same dress in deep berry is almost sold out.

Tbh, the Margiela-esque asymmetric cream dress is very beautiful too. It’s kinda versatile.