Phoebe Philo - Designer

When will be released?

More details to be released early next year.

According to sources, Phoebe Philo, who is gearing up to launch her own fashion brand with LVMH as a minority investor, has held discussions about a one-off side project with Loro Piana, though talks have yet to be concluded and any collaboration would not be imminent.

Philo confirmed her return to fashion last July, saying she would create clothing and accessories “rooted in exceptional quality and design” — and divulge more details about her eponymous new brand in January 2022.

Given Philo’s knack for sumptuous sweaters, eye-catching coats and great-fitting pants, a Loro Piana capsule signed by her would surely bring a lightning rod of attention to the Italian brand’s women’s department.
wwd.com/
 
In a weird way, I am happy that she has remained silent on the status of her label’s opening.

Philo was great for her moment and her inspiration is clearly still seen today. In short, she is a very talented designer. The best, no, but from the current talent pool she clearly stands out.

That being said, I would question any notion that she “defined” a certain aesthetic or introduced a revolution for contemporary women’s dress. And as outlandish as that take may be, I stand behind it. She is not Jil Sander. But Philo did provide a product that catered to a professional, aging woman without any residue of matronly boredom. Credit was earned for a organic approach to RTW and it was a hit as we all know.

What she did for Celine was successful in its focused approach. Stellar bags that sold very well, wonderful coats, a nice trouser and so on. I would hope and believe that her eponymous label will follow a similar structure, albeit at a much, much smaller scale. If we are fortunate enough to see a look book of the collection and view her clothes IRL if she decides to have brick and mortar presence ( I doubt that we will see her product in Nordstroms Flagship, for example) that would be enough. Do we need her to headline fashion week? Does she even want that? From what I am reading, no, she clearly has no interest in this overly hyped environment built on marketing.
 
The brand seems to be progressing, at least behind the scenes.

There have been multiple job postings for Phoebe Philo Studio on LinkedIn. There's one open role for "assistant to the visual department." The job is posted by Phoebe's executive assistant and studio manager. There are also multiple people on LinkedIn with jobs at Phoebe Philo Studio.

Given that January was an estimated time for further information and we've passed it, I'm going to forecast that there may be a small presentation in London or Paris for editors and buyers before or after Couture. I could very well see Phoebe showing 2 collections a year and on the Couture calendar.
 
almost a whole year since this brand was announced and they still can't get her team together ? and they do have a reasonable budget to poach some great talents...
 
I think LVXH is kind of hesitating after hiring Hedi S. and witnessing sales of celine did not work well as expected....correct me if i am wrong.
 
^But they have a minority stake so it's not like they have that much to say and honestly, Slimane at Celine has even less to do with their decisions regarding Philo's new business. If I had to compare Phoebe's business to anyone, I'd go for Gabriela Hearst as LVMH got a minority stake there, too and Hearst herself is relatively independent there.

I think they just haven't built the whole team yet and that's why they are silent again.
 
To be honest is always better to wait for something good rather than have something rushed and uninspired. She took a year to start at Céline no?
Exactly. People forget they have a whole fashion house to build. She is starting everything from scratch…
You have to define a strategy, think about production, distribution, brand values and all those things. She has to build a new team (a lot of people who worked with her at Celine have moved to other houses) even if I think it’s interesting to note that Yuni Ahn has left Kistune in 2020 and might probably join her and be a strong part of her design team.

Creating a whole fashion house takes a lot of investment. We should let her take her time.

Delphine Arnault is behind her so, I don’t worry. It would be different if it was one of the brothers.
 
I think Phoebe is a very interesting designer and her emphasis at Celine is a great paradigm of design aesthetics.
 
I have a theory for the delay but out of respect for her I don't want to post it publicly.
 
I have a theory for the delay but out of respect for her I don't want to post it publicly.
I was actually randomly wondering yesterday what's happening with her brand. We haven't had an update since the initial announcement over a year ago and this was supposed to launch last January.

Please please give us any info you feel comfortable sharing @Mutterlein ! ^_^
 

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