Phoebe Philo - Designer

Oh no… I heard wispers last month in the gallery circuit
 
So the latest I heard is that she is showing this coming season for Autumn Winter 2023-2024.

The person who relayed this to me was skeptical themselves and I suspect this rumor has been passed many times through the telephone so take it with a grain of salt.
 
I am confident that we will see something from her sooner than later and that brings to mind a few questions.

Fashion and the world has changed a lot since she exited Celine.

Her life has changed a lot.

The vacuum that she left was filled by Balenciaga and Gucci---a pitiful substitute for the depth and sophistication she commanded.

And now both of their arcs have ended, or will soon.

It seems like a good time for her to get back in the game and take command again.
 
^it's still a lot of expectation on her - not even Galliano, Ghesquiere or Tom Ford had that level of impact twice at different labels (even if they did very well in their subsequent gigs after the first one that made them famous), so I'm not expecting Phoebe to do it either, just have a successful brand. I think the only one who could be said to have done it is maybe Raf? At his own label for menswear and then at Jil Sander for women's.

I wonder what her collections will look like, too - her Chloe looked nothing like her Celine, there's a certain feminine point of view that comes through but it doesn't always translate to the same things aesthetically. I remember rumours c. 2006 that she was consulting with Gap but they kept it quiet, and some of the offerings around that time did feel a bit influenced by her.
 
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Source: Google Images
 
given we seem to be on the cusp of another worldwide recession at some point, her doing a Celine mk. II might actually resonate? But I don't know if she will do that. I do think she'll keep things wearable, though, that's the common thread running through her collections for the most part, even the ones with weirdness built in.
 
given we seem to be on the cusp of another worldwide recession at some point, her doing a Celine mk. II might actually resonate? But I don't know if she will do that. I do think she'll keep things wearable, though, that's the common thread running through her collections for the most part, even the ones with weirdness built in.

For sure, Philo is a realist. I think creating clothes for everyday life is a priority for her.

It took her some time to get to that experimental place with Celine. I imagine she will want to be crystal clear about what the brand is all about when it debuts. So it's unlikely it will be anything too theatrical or conceptual.

I did seem like her design sensibility aged with her. So perhaps something even more mature and oriented to women around her age.
 
Fashion has it way of creating a hype based on old narratives. I think it’s maybe unnecessary pressure to expect from Phoebe to come and shake fashion again.

Never I ever imagine from her work at Chloe, that she would become that oracle of fashion. I wonder if the wait is not also due to that pressure.
She is voice that I miss but I don’t expect her to recreate the magic of her Celine.
 
Never I ever imagine from her work at Chloe, that she would become that oracle of fashion. I wonder if the wait is not also due to that pressure.
She is voice that I miss but I don’t expect her to recreate the magic of her Celine.

I just found it interesting that two designers (Karl & Phoebe) that changed fashion both got their start at Chloe. A house that people usually associated with being typical Parisian.

I think no designer can change fashion twice. The magic only happened once. Tom, Miuccia, and even Chanel didn't create any magic with her comeback.
What I want to see from a designer is their evolution, rather than trying to recapture a long-gone momentum, show us something that reflects your growth.

I'm ready for what Phoebe has in store for us because I know she will offer us something real grown-up without any gimmicks or noises.
 

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