Phoebe Philo - Designer

[Creative]

Question, how does one get notified of a private sale for a brand like, say, Dior?

If you are a customer you usually get a text message from your sales advisor, especially if you are a good customer. If you are a one timer or if you just purchased under 3K it’s very rare you get a message (unless the brand is really desperate).

But you can always go to the store or even call them and ask them if they have private sales and if so, when they will have them.

Usually the idea for private sales is that only VICs can have access to them, the reality is that they would offer them to literally anyone.

From time to time, when they want to be more exclusive, stores receive a message from top management saying that they have to call only a certain client list, but that’s rare.

On another note, they usually do private sales late Nov, early Dec, sometimes till the 20th, and then in January they start the public sales, which usually have the same kind of products.

Some brands only have private and not public, and it depends on the season or the strategy.

So basically you just need to ask😊

 

[reese06]

.

And me personally after the Burberry episode, I promised myself to never buy anything from that brand at full retail price…

I can only imagine the feeling. I’ve been purchasing Daniel Lee Burberry at employee and sample sale prices but from their wholesale accounts, who seem to be practically trying to give it away.

The discounts are steep!

 

[jeanclaude]

I wonder how many MOMOMOMOM necklaces ended discounted...they´ll have to pay me to carry that home!

 

[Melancholybaby]

If you are a one timer or if you just purchased under 3K it’s very rare you get a message (unless the brand is really desperate).

True story- I bought two shirts and a pair of boots from Hedi's debut Celine collection and I used to get WhatsApp messages about private sales and in-store events for a solid ~2-3 years. Coupled with the pandemic, I guess the start of his tenure was rough to say the least. Text messages magically stopped once Lisa became a brand ambassador and sales started taking off lol.

 

[rowjellies]

 

[LadyJunon]

Loving that for her. I wonder if the brand is profitable yet.

 

[NoInvite]

Go PP, show em how it's done!

 

[Lola701]

Good Phoebe!
Now give us a presentation maybe next year and open your store in Paris instead of London (if things are not sealed yet).

Her biggest challenge as she grows will be to maintain the integrity of the brand. I hope she will have that and experience the same kind of success Azzedine experienced in his lifetime.

 

[Lola701]

Loving that for her. I wonder if the brand is profitable yet.

Judging by how minimal things are done it would be very disappointing if she is not profitable or at least breaking-even.

That would mean that the operational costs are high…Which frankly would be hardly understandable.

 

[PDFSD]

Loving that for her. I wonder if the brand is profitable yet.

so far from news outlets we know this:

2022 - LVMH acquired just under 30% of Phoebe Philo Ltd in 2022 to back her independent venture.
2023 — The shares LVMH purchased are officially worth just £1. But the luxury giant paid a premium of nearly 200 times that price for each share.
2023 The company elected not to include a profit and loss statement for 2023, which is permitted for businesses of this small size.
But they were only active for two months that year anyway. (There is a mention of “accruals or deferred income” of £3 million, which could refer to the sales they netted in those two months, but it’s impossible to tell.)
By the end of 2023, the company had about £6 million on hand, down from nearly £15 million at the end of 2022. That’s understandable, given that their employee count nearly doubled (from 49 to 93) and they had to produce a collection.
But £9 million is a ton of cash to burn, even with a minority backer like LVMH.

full official PHOEBE PHILO LIMITED ANNUAL REPORT AND FINANCIAL STATEMENTS FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31 DECEMBER 2024 doc you can find here:
PHOEBE PHILO LIMITED filing history - Find and update company information - GOV.UK

 

[PDFSD]

WWD Phoebe Philo Signals Strong Momentum Ahead, Anticipates Revenue Tripling in 2025​

With a Mayfair flagship on the horizon, the brand said 2025 turnover is set to reach 32 million pounds.
ByTIANWEI ZHANG

JANUARY 5, 2026, 9:44AM​

Phoebe Philo COURTESY

LONDON — Phoebe Philo‘s namesake label signaled strong growth momentum ahead, according to the latest Companies House filings, which were published on Dec. 30, disclosing the brand’s performance in the prior year.
The London-based luxury fashion brand, which counts Philo, her husband Max Wigram and Delphine Arnault of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as company directors, said the foundations laid between 2023 and 2024 are translating into accelerated growth, with 2025 turnover forecast at 32 million pounds, around three times 2024’s levels, which aligns with its five-year growth plan.
For the year ended Dec. 31, 2024, Phoebe Philo Ltd.’s revenue already almost doubled year-over-year, growing from 5.7 million pounds in 2023 to 11.2 million pounds, despite a deepened annual loss of 24.4 million pounds in the period, compared with a 21.8 million pounds loss a year prior.

The brand said the growth was driven primarily by direct-to-consumer sales, and a third of the turnover was generated by the wholesale channel.

As reported, the brand in early 2024 began expanding into key retail locations, including Bergdorf Goodman in New York; 10 Corso Como in Milan; Dover Street Market in London and Paris; Maxfield and Neiman Marcus in Los Angeles, and The Webster in Miami.

Later that year, the brand further expanded its global e-commerce footprint into Asia-Pacific and added Dover Street Market Ginza, Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo, Parlour X in Sydney and Shinsegae International in Seoul as its brick-and-mortar wholesale partners.

The company said the deepening loss after tax reflected its heavy investment across product development, digital infrastructure and operational scale-up during its first full year of trading.

In the filings, the brand highlighted that its social media impressions grew 48 percent year-over-year to 28.6 million in 2024, with strong engagement from targeted demographics, and the customer retention rate sat at 28 percent within the first 18 months of launch.

The brand also emphasized its effort in making fashion green by establishing a carbon footprint baseline and partnering with sustainable materials suppliers, alongside implementing an ethical sourcing policy.

Looking ahead, the brand said it plans to deepen wholesale penetration, broaden its product offering, particularly in accessories and seasonal capsules, and expand across APAC, while continuing investments in digital platforms, customer experience and sustainable materials.

Last fall, the brand made a big retail push into China by signing with five prominent local retailers: B1ock, Lane Crawford, SND, Dongliang and Dover Street Market in Beijing.

It’s also been reported by WWD that Philo is planting her flag in London’s Mayfair with plans to open her first store on Carlos Place, in a former office building, according to industry sources.

The store will be in London’s Mount Street neighborhood, one of the city’s hottest areas for high-end shopping. Philo’s store will be across the street from The Row, and a few steps from The Connaught hotel.

Philo revealed she was starting her own brand in 2021, a few years after she wound up an acclaimed 10-year tenure at Celine in Paris.

The mission of her independent, namesake house — which counts Celine parent LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a minority investor — is to create clothing and accessories “rooted in exceptional quality and design.”

 

[Melancholybaby]

It’s also been reported by WWD that Philo is planting her flag in London’s Mayfair with plans to open her first store on Carlos Place, in a former office building, according to industry sources.

The store will be in London’s Mount Street neighborhood, one of the city’s hottest areas for high-end shopping. Philo’s store will be across the street from The Row, and a few steps from The Connaught hotel.

Maybe I'm reading too much into this, but are they trying to insinuate Phoebe chose Mount Street to compete with The Row of all brands?

Céline's London flagship opened in Mount Street in 2014 and was only relocated to Bond Street in 2021 during Hedi's tenure..The Row opened its Mount Street storre in 2019.

 

[Grets]

Yeah I think they are insinuating they are competitors. I've heard people say this about her brand being across the Row at Galeries Lafeyette

 

[PDFSD]

PUCK​

The Shape of Phoebe​

On December 30, Phoebe Philo released information about its 2024 fiscal year, including a detailed strategic plan and projections for 2025. (A quick reminder that all companies in the U.K. must disclose financial information, but the numbers aren’t usually released until a full year after the period closes because they wait until the very last minute.) Some quick stats: The company generated £11.2 million in revenue in 2024, up from £5.7 million in 2023, and was projected to make £32 million in 2025. We won’t know whether they hit that number for another year, but I suspect they came close. My own projection in November of last year was that Phoebe Philo was doing between £20 million and £30 million. According to the company’s directors—Phoebe Philo, her husband Max Wigram, and Delphine Arnault—“the business is advancing precisely as planned.”
Unsurprisingly, the company was not profitable, losing £24.4 million in 2024 and £21.8 million in 2023. Most of those expenditures were related to operations (they spent £29.2 million on admin), but there was also a big investment (£3.8 million) on R&D. Another fun fact: 28 percent of customers shopped more than once in the first 18 months of launch.
It’s interesting to compare Philo with Stella McCartney, whose own recently released financial statement showed a company in serious trouble. Yes, P.P. has a lot of debt, but it’s growing, and it also has planned for the losses. If P.P. continues to expand at a fast clip, it will be the first example of LVMH developing a successful brand from scratch, and a big win for Delphine Arnault, despite the fact that they own only a quarter of the business. (It seems that Wigram and Philo took the approach of playing nice with LVMH while still doing exactly what they wanted—and it’s working.) Remember, this is still a tiny, tiny, tiny business for LVMH, but I could see P.P. reaching £100 million quickly as its retail stores begin to proliferate. Anyway, nice to hear a 2025 success story.

 

[PDFSD]

Armando Zuccali

The £23.5 Million Question nobody wants to ask out loud:
How long can Phoebe Philo keep burning cash before profitability arrives?
Headlines are screaming “revenue tripling to £32M in 2025!” and yes, tripling from £11.2M is impressive.
But read the fine print: £23.5 million operating loss on just £11.2M revenue in 2024.

That's losing more than double what you're making.
In luxury, early losses are normal. Massive structural cash burn at this scale? That's a different conversation.

Fixed costs (creative team, production, marketing, logistics) are killing margins at low volume
The Mayfair flagship opening soon could be rocket fuel… or another expensive fixed cost sinkhole
LVMH holds a minority stake with Delphine Arnault on the board patient capital today, but LVMH didn't build an empire subsidising forever

The real math:
To reach break-even, many luxury independents need £80-120M+ revenue.
At 50-100% YoY growth (aggressive but possible), we're still talking 2-4 more years of £20-50M annual losses.
Is this visionary brand-building… or an expensive exercise in mythology?
Phoebe Philo created hundreds of millions at Céline. Now she's testing if true independence in ultra-luxury is possible without eventually handing over the keys.

Will the physical store + Asia wholesale expansion flip the economics fast enough?
Or will we see another round of funding → more dilution → LVMH taking control?