Phoebe Philo - Life After Chloe - *Update* Creative Director for Celine

[Wenden]

^^ I can see Stefano here! He would be an interesting choice. They're admire each others work very much. But right now he seems to growing his own thing with "Random Identities". (They're really thinking about someone from Victoria Beckham design team? That's funny.)

Well, it's a good time for her to leave if she wants to. She said in a few interviews about her total creative control at Celine, idk if she will be comfortable in a position of creative director for a bigger house. Phoebe at Dior, that would be interesting. Or Lanvin. Or LV. Or she doing her own thing. For now I think she needs few yers break to have a big come back like after Chloe. Anyway, she changed the game and created some amazing collections with her team at Celine

 

[t-rex]

Would Philo really take on a major job like Dior or LV? She seems to really prioritize her time and family, I can't see her wanting to take on all those responsibilities

 

[vetements]

I don't get why someone who's already successful at the brand wants to leave. Phoebe arguably is considered talented and designs possibilities are endless, even if it's within a certain aesthetic.

So she left and wants to do her own brand, and that will be a completely different aesthetic? Meaning the current things she produced for Celine isn't really her but her putting on the hat of Celine the brand?

I have been thinking about this recently with the placement of the designers from other houses into Givenchy, Dior, Chloe etc etc.
Should the house accommodate the designer or the designer to accommodate the house?

 

[Lola701]

^^
@Vetements You said it all perfectly!

I also don't get why a designer would want to leave a house where he is/she is successful. I would say that at a luxury good company, it can make sense because their main focus is not fashion and in a way, they need a constant turn over of designer to make people interested in their products.

But, for a company that has such a strong fashion DNA, why feel the need to leave? She can do whatever she wants at Celine. She can even destroy everything she has done and it will work because she has that authority now.

I might be in the minority but i love the Karl X Fendi collaboration. 50 years and it is still moving forward. He has that platform where he can whatever he wants without any limitation and Fendi hasn't shown a sign of slowing down...Even if at some point in the history, it had it ups and downs.

She made Celine like Riccardo made Givenchy and Alber made Lanvin. I'm afraid to see what Celine can become in the future. I've stopped shopping at Marni in less than a year and today, i don't believe in young designers.

 

[vetements]

Lola

Yes, then again that is if only they can be as evergreen as Karl. Ups and downs in a house are inevitable but only through perseverance can one perfectly hone his skills. Karl for Fendi is great and so is Chanel. And I do think Karl does put some innovations periodically into them, be it materials or designs or set or shopfronts or campaigns. And we have the Chanel,and Fendi of today.

I didn't really buy Raf's reasoning then when he mentioned he wanted to leave Dior due to the "stress', it just sounded whiny to me.

 

[tatouejeremie]

the creative side is just one side of the creative director job, since celine is part of lvmh and all they seem to care about is growth growth growth.

celine hasn't produced a new moneymaker bag in years so i'm pretty sure they're pressuring her in that department, also how they seem to be getting ready for e-commerce which has always been something she was against.

she's probably just fed up

 

[fashionista-ta]

^^ I can see Stefano here! He would be an interesting choice. They're admire each others work very much. But right now he seems to growing his own thing with "Random Identities". (They're really thinking about someone from Victoria Beckham design team? That's funny.)

Well, it's a good time for her to leave if she wants to. She said in a few interviews about her total creative control at Celine, idk if she will be comfortable in a position of creative director for a bigger house. Phoebe at Dior, that would be interesting. Or Lanvin. Or LV. Or she doing her own thing. For now I think she needs few yers break to have a big come back like after Chloe. Anyway, she changed the game and created some amazing collections with her team at Celine

Now that you mention it, she is probably one of the few who could breathe new life into Lanvin. She also has notable negotiation skills, judging from her results.

It seems to me, without having followed her closely, that she writes her own rules and plays the game her way, kind of like Lauren Hutton did as a model. She probably has her own barometer that tells her when it's time to move on. No doubt she has accomplished what she wanted to at Celine. I wouldn't be surprised to see her repeat the pattern of significant time off, followed by a new and significantly different deal.

By the time she's ready to come back, Lanvin may be in a state requiring a major deity to revive it.

I'm curious why she's against e-com? Celine before her time was readily available through LVMH online channels.

 

[Lola701]

Lola

Yes, then again that is if only they can be as evergreen as Karl. Ups and downs in a house are inevitable but only through perseverance can one perfectly hone his skills. Karl for Fendi is great and so is Chanel. And I do think Karl does put some innovations periodically into them, be it materials or designs or set or shopfronts or campaigns. And we have the Chanel,and Fendi of today.

I didn't really buy Raf's reasoning then when he mentioned he wanted to leave Dior due to the "stress', it just sounded whiny to me.

PArt of it can be true. Working for LVMH and even more, for a brand like Dior (which is Bernard Arnault's baby) can be stressful. The designer of Dior can't enjoy that much freedom as the designer of Celine, Loewe, Givenchy or Pucci.
I think it was all quite obvious in the documentary. Arnault has to validate the set of the show, the meetings for the bags are all known and even more, you have to deal with the attention and the fact that your vocabulary will be limited to the fashion and accessories department. And in that department, you have inside limits:
-you can't really choose the spokespersons,
-you have to deal with extern voices (Raf wasn't involved in the bags campaigns with Cotillard for example...etc.)

Galliano was the last Dior designer who had that total creative control on every line at Dior. He was involved in the beauty as much as in the fashion and accessories department. He was instrumental in choosing the spokespersons...etc.

I really don't think that Raf was prepared for that Job but working for Dior really helped him for his CK gig.

This frustration can be stressful for a lot of designers, even more when you have that much ego. We can say whatever we wants but a Marc Jacobs or a Riccardo Tisci has less ego than an Hedi Slimane or a Raf Simons. That's how they have managed to stay that long at LVMH because they all knows that it all comes to the boss.

 

[Marc10]

I really fear that she's going to take a long break. Like others have said I get the sense that LVMH is putting huge pressure on in sales department, and she might be fed up. And I don't see her wanting to take on massive companies like Dior, LV, Chanel with its destination shows, endless projects and other nonsenses. Something like Burberry would be more her thing.

As for Céline, Jacquemus would be really interested. I think he's now ready to take on a big brand

 

[mathiaskatz]

^Jacquemus sounds like a great fit, but I wish he'd stay at his label a little longer before joining a big one. I want to see what more he has to offer before getting pressured by LVMH/Kering.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I agree, he seems like a pretty good fit, but he's doing well with his own label. Better to have another Dries than to feed one of the best young designers into the corporate maw.

I'm wondering if she may be experiencing a serious illness.

 

[disco54]

I think its a good move, she is incredibly talented if not the most talented female designer in the game. If they can give a useless twat like Chuiri Dior, I think she would do wonders at Chanel but I feel Elbaz is more fine tuned to the Couture aspects of it. So if NG is leaving Vuitton, I think she would fit in there.

 

[YohjiAddict]

It's definitely a good time to say goodbye to Céline, she's clearly given everything she had to offer, much like it happened at Chloé, her ideas are no longer as fresh.

I feel like Jacquemus would be very nice, he'll bring something a bit more sensual to the brand...however I agree with everyone that he has many thing to learn on his own before he becomes a part of the big leagues otherwise he might burn off too fast.

 

[Mutterlein]

In case this hasn't been mentioned yet...

Phoebe is leaving to go to Burberry.

Simon is set to replace her.

At least, that's what I heard.

 

[orchidee]

^Actually that makes sense to me. Lord knows Burberry needs a change.

 

[vetements]

In case this hasn't been mentioned yet...

Phoebe is leaving to go to Burberry.

Simon is set to replace her.

At least, that's what I heard.

Good! high time to sweep dust off Burberry off, its been ugly for way too long.
maybe going back to her roots is not such a bad thing.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It's perfect! She'll go to work and get to go home to her family. That's a good arrangement for her. I'm not so sure about Simon though.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Anything but excited about Pheobe at Burberry it doesn't function in my head...but maybe that's the ingenious part?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Anything but excited about Pheobe at Burberry it doesn't function in my head...but maybe that's the ingenious part?

Burberry isn't what it used to be, its a completely different brand now. It's very commercial focused.

 

[dodencebt]

Oh no, I wouldn't like to see Simon at any big brand just yet. I don't think he is ready for Celine, even though he is succeeding at his own brand.

But Phoebe for Burberry, bring it on! Burberry has seriously lost its spark since the beginning of this decade.