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my parka. the winter to come will be the third winter i'll be wearing it. i live in hamburg, germany, which is something of a parka capital. we've got local brands like "derbe" or artsy "elternhaus" bringing out new, more elaborately stylish versions every fall.
Please, don't make me wear a parka
(Filed: 27/09/2006)
They're furry, shiny and shapeless but they're also winter's must-have jackets. A reluctant Maria Fitzpatrick tried one out...
Looking stylish in winter can be hard work. Crammed with parties and dressy occasions, it's the season that demands most from us in terms of glamour – which doesn't come easy when you're hung-over and Lemsip-dependent. But, sometimes, the fashion gods are merciful, giving us one staple item of clothing that is practical and fashionable – and that is why some of us may find ourselves wearing a parka this winter.
'Even the most beautifully tailored designer specimen looks like... an anorak in disguise'Yes, a parka, an item of clothing that we thought had ''fashion crime" written all over it. It's famous for being the uniform of Mods in the Sixties – worn with pointy shoes and pudding-bowl haircuts. But for me, it conjures up memories of that snotty child in the playground, destined for an Asbo, whose fur-lined hood always smelt as if it had been left out in the rain for weeks. Add to that its famous devotees – the brats from South Park, Adrian Mole and the Gallagher brothers – and its resemblance to the lagging on a boiler is a minor complaint.
But the parka has been reincarnated. Silky and luxuriously oversized military styles with cashmere, satin and fur finishes billowed their way into many a designer collection – from Prada to Belstaff – as the linchpin of a new edgy, urban look for winter. Kylie, Madonna, Sarah Jessica Parker and Colleen McLoughlin have already welcomed them into their wardrobes.
Tempted by the prospect of a ''functional" yet sexy winter jacket, I decided to give the new improved model a try, venturing out in the dreaded garment for a day in the hope of being converted. This parka had to have an echo of the past about it for the experiment to work, so I chose a black, knee-length designer version complete with fluffy fur-trim, toggles and shiny – though enticingly silky – fabric that whooshed and whistled with every move.
It was certainly warm. One point to the parka. There was plenty of room for several thin knits underneath – essential with the layered look for winter. And it was comfortable – the fabric behaved itself, it didn't bunch up or need any adjusting. But it didn't feel sophisticated, not even in a gritty ''with attitude" sort of way – and I gave it my all with the sullen pout, I really did.
When I caught a glimpse of myself in the mirror, I nearly chickened out. I was taking a friend for birthday tea at the Ritz, and I wasn't sure they'd admit me in a swollen black binliner. But I had to know if the parka could pass a taste test, and what better place to try it? Despite slightly stricken looks from the doormen who were too polite to sneer, I sailed on through.
I thought I was just about getting away with it later that evening, in a pair of platforms and moody eyeliner, when a friend greeted me with one raised eyebrow: "Nice anorak." I could have snapped something about anoraks having elasticated cuffs and bottoms, but the battle was already lost.
I'm all for mixing things up – grunge with a touch of glamour can be a great combination. And yes, these new grown-up parkas are certainly posher than their predecessors, but even the most beautifully tailored designer specimen looks like... an anorak in disguise.
As for the furry collar: it was infuriating. It was designed to protect the face from freezing temperatures and Arctic winds – mine felt permanently damp from the drizzle, ticklish, and ridiculously out of place. Unless we get another ice age, I'd rather have a cold nose.
However, a few of the styles currently in the shops dispense with all such characteristics and work as smart and sensible winter jackets, including a granddad-collar style in olive green from Sportmax; (£605; 0207 518 8010), and the minimalist cotton or nylon versions from Topshop (from £40; 0845 121 4519), in black, chocolate and grey check.
For something equally unfussy, Gap's new RED collection – half the profits are donated to the Global Fund to fight Aids – includes a classic khaki parka in lightweight cotton, with a hood – but no fur – for £120, (0800 427 789). French Connection has an empire-line parka (£120; 0207 036 7200) in this season's key colour, grey, with pleats at the front, which give it a smarter appearance and a more flattering shape than many of the new high-street versions.
Just remember, although parkas are going to stick around until spring – judging by the recent shows in New York and London – they are not the only choice for winter. Think layers, long cable-knit cardigans with a wide belt – and a big umbrella, instead.
, no one does coats or parkas really so there's still some freedom... 
