Prada F/W 2024.25 Milan

[Lorenzogi]

Still doesn't unseat my original mention that you pedestal-postioned Raf, while diminishing Miuccia.
Doesn't take any amount of intellectuality to see the underlying presence of mysogyny that lives there.
Fashion is female, by muse, model and mission. Furthermore, Miuccia has been well documented and hailed as a cerebral type of designer, which is supported by her education, holding a PhD in political science from University of Milan, 1973. She understands that her role in fashion is to "sell", her approach in doing that is intellectual. THIS is the house code of Prada, which keeps it a cut above the rest. All your reservations and mentions of the fondazione are just fodder.

Vuitton mentions sold separately. The focus of this conversation is Prada. Save everything else for another thread.

And remember that it's Miuccia who approached Raf, not the other way round.

 

[jeremydante]

And remember that it's Miuccia who approached Raf, not the other way round.

Tired. Remain seated, and go to a Raf thread. Miuccia is of the Prada family, no appointment anywhere, at any point in time can ever rival or top that. You are so backwards. Exhausting and unnecessary. You can just tell by your stance that you have no clue what you're talking about. Sit down.

 

[Lorenzogi]

Tired. Remain seated, and go to a Raf thread. Miuccia is of the Prada family, no appointment anywhere, at any point in time can ever rival or top that. You are so backwards. Exhausting and unnecessary. You can just tell by your stance that you have no clue what you're talking about. Sit down.

I don't know what your problem is, you made all this fuss because i refuse to buy anything worn buy overweight influencers ? They make clothes no justice 😆
I only care about how it looks on the catwalk, not how it looks on "real" people.

 

[MulletProof]

Still doesn't unseat my original mention that you pedestal-postioned Raf, while diminishing Miuccia.
Doesn't take any amount of intellectuality to see the underlying presence of mysogyny that lives there.
Fashion is female, by muse, model and mission. Furthermore, Miuccia has been well documented and hailed as a cerebral type of designer, which is supported by her education, holding a PhD in political science from University of Milan, 1973. She understands that her role in fashion is to "sell", her approach in doing that is intellectual. THIS is the house code of Prada, which keeps it a cut above the rest. All your reservations and mentions of the fondazione are just fodder.

There is nothing misogynistic about questioning a business just because it's led by a woman. Thanks for the support but please don't make it sound like we don't have any agency, or like we're incapable of malice or that criticism on bad personal/professional decisions should be waived because... condescending clapping about any presence at all. If the bar is high in a field or if scrutiny is a part of it, it should be equal, for everyone. No one wants to feel like being a symbol/diversity/quota presence ranks above your performance and intellectual capacity, you probably mean well but calling it misogyny is not the type of solidarity you think it is.

Raf Simons was a far more intellectual and dignified designer. Up until his last seasons at Jil Sander, his work was constantly evolving and he did associate himself with the side of the industry that always approached womenswear in a respectful way, with sensibility, starting with Veronique Branquinho. This idea, among kids who woke up to fashion during the hot mess that his tenure at Dior was, that he's always been terrible or that he 'ruins' everything or that he knows nothing about fashion, is only one of the many problems with fashion at the moment: lack of education, lack of auto-didacticism, tunnel vision on your interest with total disregard for reading and gaining comprehensive knowledge on the field you claim to be oh so obsessed by.

Miuccia on the other hand, has always been in the luxury sector, with all the aggressive marketing that involves. Unlike Raf (who is essentially self-made), she inherited the family business, and alongside her husband, has only been about expanding, climbing the cultural capital ladder (fondazione), amassing, ripping off smaller labels and if necessary, decimating them and bullying its designer out (Jil Sander) regardless if it's one of the few labels in the industry started and led by an actually self-made woman who didn't run to the family business one year after graduation (making a PhD, something you pursue for research and not to flex- a laughable acquisition for someone who's about to spend the rest of her life enticing people into thinking less and buying more).

With all that being said, they're both terrible and deserve each other. Raf is right where he belongs lending himself to be a circus pet that validates her business among the dumb crowd that still thinks he brings fashion closer to the art world, and Prada's pathetic cartoon of itself is spelled out for everyone to see.

 

[jeremydante]

There is nothing misogynistic about questioning a business just because it's led by a woman. Thanks for the support but please don't make it sound like we don't have any agency, or like we're incapable of malice or that criticism on bad personal/professional decisions should be waived because... condescending clapping about any presence at all. If the bar is high in a field or if scrutiny is a part of it, it should be equal, for everyone. No one wants to feel like being a symbol/diversity/quota presence ranks above your performance and intellectual capacity, you probably mean well but calling it misogyny is not the type of solidarity you think it is.

Raf Simons was a far more intellectual and dignified designer. Up until his last seasons at Jil Sander, his work was constantly evolving and he did associate himself with the side of the industry that always approached womenswear in a respectful way, with sensibility, starting with Veronique Branquinho. This idea, among kids who woke up to fashion during the hot mess that his tenure at Dior was, that he's always been terrible or that he 'ruins' everything or that he knows nothing about fashion, is only one of the many problems with fashion at the moment: lack of education, lack of auto-didacticism, tunnel vision on your interest with total disregard for reading and gaining comprehensive knowledge on the field you claim to be oh so obsessed by.

Miuccia on the other hand, has always been in the luxury sector, with all the aggressive marketing that involves. Unlike Raf (who is essentially self-made), she inherited the family business, and alongside her husband, has only been about expanding, climbing the cultural capital ladder (fondazione), amassing and on occasion, ripping off smaller labels and decimating them if necessary regardless if it's one of the few labels in the industry started and led by an actually self-made woman who didn't run to the family business one year after graduation (making a PhD, something you pursue for research and not to flex- a laughable acquisition for someone who's about to spend the rest of her life enticing people into thinking less and buying more).

With all that being said, they're both terrible and deserve each other. Raf is right where he belongs lending himself to be a circus pet that validates her business among the dumb crowd that still thinks he brings fashion closer to the art world, and Prada's pathetic cartoon of itself is spelled out for everyone to see.

You missed the point; if you followed the thread and trail of conversation, you would see that the other posted unseated Miuccia and what she's done with her family's legacy, and put Raf on a pedestal. That's the whole point of my push back.

It is misogynistic in nature to unseat a woman, and build up a man in his approach as her replacement/successor; in this context. If you disagree, then you are not a suitable person to be in discussion about with this.

You wrote, a lot; but before writing, you should've just taken an opportunity to take in my original point.

 

[MulletProof]

^ it makes sense you'd think that's a lot but unlike you, I read: they're working as a duo (see them waving at the finale, why do you think that is?), and he made a comparison on how Miuccia caters to influencers and Raf has carried himself with more dignity. You called that misogyny and that is incorrect because, again, they are working together, 50/50 (or so they say) and come from separate careers, comparisons on business models will take place.

I've never heard any woman use this vocabulary ('build up a man, unseat a woman') but hey, whatever rocks a man's boat, amirite?

 

[Lorenzogi]

There is nothing misogynistic about questioning a business just because it's led by a woman. Thanks for the support but please don't make it sound like we don't have any agency, or like we're incapable of malice or that criticism on bad personal/professional decisions should be waived because... condescending clapping about any presence at all. If the bar is high in a field or if scrutiny is a part of it, it should be equal, for everyone. No one wants to feel like being a symbol/diversity/quota presence ranks above your performance and intellectual capacity, you probably mean well but calling it misogyny is not the type of solidarity you think it is.

Raf Simons was a far more intellectual and dignified designer. Up until his last seasons at Jil Sander, his work was constantly evolving and he did associate himself with the side of the industry that always approached womenswear in a respectful way, with sensibility, starting with Veronique Branquinho. This idea, among kids who woke up to fashion during the hot mess that his tenure at Dior was, that he's always been terrible or that he 'ruins' everything or that he knows nothing about fashion, is only one of the many problems with fashion at the moment: lack of education, lack of auto-didacticism, tunnel vision on your interest with total disregard for reading and gaining comprehensive knowledge on the field you claim to be oh so obsessed by.

Miuccia on the other hand, has always been in the luxury sector, with all the aggressive marketing that involves. Unlike Raf (who is essentially self-made), she inherited the family business, and alongside her husband, has only been about expanding, climbing the cultural capital ladder (fondazione), amassing, ripping off smaller labels and if necessary, decimating them and bullying its designer out (Jil Sander) regardless if it's one of the few labels in the industry started and led by an actually self-made woman who didn't run to the family business one year after graduation (making a PhD, something you pursue for research and not to flex- a laughable acquisition for someone who's about to spend the rest of her life enticing people into thinking less and buying more).

With all that being said, they're both terrible and deserve each other. Raf is right where he belongs lending himself to be a circus pet that validates her business among the dumb crowd that still thinks he brings fashion closer to the art world, and Prada's pathetic cartoon of itself is spelled out for everyone to see.

Maybe they should just stop the co-creative direction and Raf Simons should focus solely on Prada Menswear. His Dior looked better than this.

 

[MulletProof]

^ or maybe they sh--- uh nevermind, I'm not suitable for this discussion because I don't agree with what the man above, in his almighty male power, has determined to be misogyny. 🥲

 

[Razzer]

I have not commented on Tfs for years and years...yet felt the compulsion to put my two cents into the ring for once and be contrarian in stating how much I love this collection, though I'm biased with being a big Miuccia womenswear devote.

Like many I felt Raf was jeopardizing the brand with having so little sensuality in his designs, which is in sharp contrast to Miuccia's always on pointe interrogation into erotism and dress - but this collection I find interesting because of their contrasts.

The coldness and warmth, the hats that look believable yet are strange, the sensuality of the knitwear pieces, the playful injections of kitsch in the colour palliate and skirt details to exploit the severity of the cuts of garments and the tone of the fashion show.
It's a game of push and pull and has a complexity that is also frivolous, a tone that is aspirational in how I personally wish to dress.

And as usual Prada brings it home in utilising a colour palliate that is off but elegant and is the not the endlessly boring but I guess undoubtedly profitable beige box monochrome palliate for Autumn Winter we get from far too many designers. And as usual the themes explored in the collection are coherent, focused and yet have freedom to experiment. It is not full of a kaleidoscope of references that feels fragmentary, symptomatic of Instagram or just safe sellable bets that will go viral on the internet - though I'm well aware that Prada as whole wants to be the biggest contender in this intention, for which I think cheapens the brand, yet I can't see them slowing down....

To add I inherently agree with the many on the use of the triangular Prada logo being cheap and stripping the intellectual sexiness of the brand. And I was not impressed by the motif of bows and ribbons in the collection, but I could understand their symbolism in regards stereotypes of femininity. But it was big step up from the previous men's and let a mark, at least on me.

 

[Lorenzogi]

I have not commented on Tfs for years and years...yet felt the compulsion to put my two cents into the ring for once and be contrarian in stating how much I love this collection, though I'm biased with being a big Miuccia womenswear devote.

Like many I felt Raf was jeopardizing the brand with having so little sensuality in his designs, which is in sharp contrast to Miuccia's always on pointe interrogation into erotism and dress - but this collection I find interesting because of their contrasts.

The coldness and warmth, the hats that look believable yet are strange, the sensuality of the knitwear pieces, the playful injections of kitsch in the colour palliate and skirt details to exploit the severity of the cuts of garments and the tone of the fashion show.
It's a game of push and pull and has a complexity that is also frivolous, a tone that is aspirational in how I personally wish to dress.

And as usual Prada brings it home in utilising a colour palliate that is off but elegant and is the not the endlessly boring but I guess undoubtedly profitable beige box monochrome palliate for Autumn Winter we get from far too many designers. And as usual the themes explored in the collection are coherent, focused and yet have freedom to experiment. It is not full of a kaleidoscope of references that feels fragmentary, symptomatic of Instagram or just safe sellable bets that will go viral on the internet - though I'm well aware that Prada as whole wants to be the biggest contender in this intention, for which I think cheapens the brand, yet I can't see them slowing down....

To add I inherently agree with the many on the use of the triangular Prada logo being cheap and stripping the intellectual sexiness of the brand. And I was not impressed by the motif of bows and ribbons in the collection, but I could understand their symbolism in regards stereotypes of femininity. But it was big step up from the previous men's and let a mark, at least on me.

That logo will have to be replaced with New Order's "Bizarre Love Triangle". Will feel more Raf that way.
Sure Peter Saville would take care of it. 😆

 

[RaisinBoy]

The most outrageous thing is that this "pile of stuff" they made has been preached left, right and centre as one of the best Prada collections in a long time. Everybody is wanking over it - it's honestly unbearable.

What do you expect? Fashion critics are so spineless.
Tim Blanks is the worst kiss-*** there ever was and has no clue what is good or bad

 

[Olaffo]

^ Tim Blanks is unbearable but I was counting on Angelo Flaccavento who can be harsh but fair or Cathryn Horyn who is apparently happy to see Prada and Simons "pushing their conversations further" (yes b*tch, over the cliff). I guess I'm too naive for that and only one beacon of reason and sanity is this forum.

 

[florylate]

I have not followed fashion closely since 2017. This is the first time I am finding out that Raf and Miuccia are co-creative directors and that this has been the case for 4 years. Have they put out a good collection? This is not the Prada I was in love with almost every season.

^ Tim Blanks is unbearable but I was counting on Angelo Flaccavento who can be harsh but fair or Cathryn Horyn who is apparently happy to see Prada and Simons "pushing their conversations further" (yes b*tch, over the cliff). I guess I'm too naive for that and only one beacon of reason and sanity is this forum.

Cathy Horyn is a renowned Raf *** kisser. Raf at Jil Sander was virtually perfect but I could immediately tell he was not the proper fit at Dior and I got raked over the coals on tumblr for expressing that opinion. That people tried to pretend his collections at Dior were good for as long as they did was solely due to Horyn.

It’s maybe one of the better Raf x Miuccia efforts. It looks a bit more like Prada…certain things kind of remind me of Fall/Winter 2014..maybe it’s the colors?

I would say it’s closer to Prada F/W 2013 other than that collection being beautiful and this being beyond ugly.

 

[Nimsay]

I think that the bow dresses will likely sell out. Knowing Prada they will alter the final pieces a little - hopefully keeping the jacquard but making it in a softer material. A few other pieces will need the materials tweaked before production. That brown sweater with crystal bow needs to be a silk cashmere blend and it will sell out.

Prada is always great at colorways. That backpack on a cuff is a stand out accessory. The dresses with fur baroque detailing - more wardrobe standouts. I see the Aprons as cropped Bustle skirts. I dont think they will be made. Overall one of their best collections for that Prada look. Its Prada trying to wardrobe.

 

[WeSniffInVipArea]

what accident happened here?

 

[Lola701]

what accident happened here?

Raf Simons.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Those ribbon dresses grew on me over time. They'll pop into my mind periodically. I just checked the website and they look kindaaaa messier now.


source: prada.com

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Those ribbon dresses grew on me over time. They'll pop into my mind periodically. I just checked the website and they look kindaaaa messier now.

View attachment 1302375
source: prada.com

They were some of the better looks from this train wreck of a collection. In all honesty, the entire thing is messy.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Hack the hem so it's much shorter, get rid of some of the ribbons and pop on a high arched heeled Mary-Jane or t-bar (maybe even a slick lace up boot) and this could be better. Why the page-boy slicked hair I don't know but that really is Raf's doing...

 

[Norden]

That bow look is exactly what an annoying art collector would wear at some random fundraiser in Martha’s Vineyard.