Prada Menswear F/W 2021.22 Milan

[bennyboy]

its a Raf over Miu collection

 

[fashionmeaspear]

Do you think you could fit all the original thought surrounding this collection in one of the glove bags?...

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Just got a spreadsheet w the prices... lemme say Prada is just such a joke rn

 

[helmutnotdead]

Just got a spreadsheet w the prices... lemme say Prada is just such a joke rn

oh, can you share me? I want to have a hard laugh lol

 

[Reggie63]

Just got a spreadsheet w the prices... lemme say Prada is just such a joke rn

I became curious, I just checked online - some prices doubled! Some accessories, pouches and gloves, not the big ticket items that are priced in accordance to market prices, but still! This is on top of increases back in mid-2020.

This brand is pricing themselves out once the pandemic is over. Only brands with strong organic growth like Vuitton, Hermes and Dior can afford to inflate prices at this rate and still look at long-term growth post-Covid, even with the higher prices. Brands like Chanel, Gucci and Prada might regret these increases since:

1) they're not that hot now - Chanel and Gucci demand is cooling and I feel Prada's sales is inorganic - I think it's mostly driven up by its social media marketing push (specifically the 2000/2005 reissues flooding IG/Tiktok) and not really coming from a strong desire to buy into the brand since it still fails to make it to the top 10 of most valuable luxury brands surveys.
2) a lot of the purchases from these brands were reactionary - meaning a lot of purchases were done to beat the price increases. This strategy is not sustainable in the long-run - as more and more consumers tick off "must have" items from their list.

Time will tell since the Chinese market is so dynamic - honestly, the fates of these brands rest on what the Chinese market feels about them. I think we can expect a comedy joke fest from these brands as this unfolds.

This is an interesting read from The Fashion Law: What Do Luxury Brands' Inflating Prices Mean for Them & for the Industry at Large? | The Fashion Law

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Ugh I actually bought some yellow corduroy a long time ago to try and make a similar coat to this one here but I've been too terrified to even start trying because it's on the bias. I wonder if these are even using the effect or if the fabric is completely bonded to hold still?

 

[LadyJunon]

Ugh I actually bought some yellow corduroy a long time ago to try and make a similar coat to this one here but I've been too terrified to even start trying because it's on the bias. I wonder if these are even using the effect or if the fabric is completely bonded to hold still?

Rewatching that part of the show, my best guess would be that they're bias cut. The backs of the coats have a very subtle drape that wouldn't be possible for such a thick fabric cut on the grain. Maybe attempt making a mock-up with heavy muslin before making the final.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Hmmmm it's for sure the fabric is cut on the bias but the result still looks so full and structured. I wish I could find a used up dirt cheap one to cut into and see what's going on under there. I've seen some Chinese knockoff attempts and they look like such a mess.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Perhaps some bias cut woven fusing or even some satin organza as an interlining could help give a bit of extra hold. If not satin organza, a washed toiling muslin might help depending on the weight of your corduroy. Although the way it'll drop might end up being a nightmare especially when tacking on the organza. The collar facing is cut on the straight grain so I guess that'll help hold that together a bit to give it a bit more body, but feeding it through the machine is gonna be annoying with that pile.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Yeah I was wondering like since the collar and facing are cut on the grain then that would provide a bit of structure in the front, and I'm sure there must be some sort of canvas or fusing in there as well. And just looking at how it hangs overall in the back and arms I don't see any sort of warped spots in the cords, I feel like it has to be fused. Which is redundant af if true. But I really don't know anything lol. I should just try.

 

[Snejana Onopka]

Hmmmm it's for sure the fabric is cut on the bias but the result still looks so full and structured. I wish I could find a used up dirt cheap one to cut into and see what's going on under there. I've seen some Chinese knockoff attempts and they look like such a mess.

non fusible horsehair canvas might be an option, it gives structure/body to the garment without stifling its movement and the padstiching used to attach the horsehair will probably help you achieve that fullness

 

[Kanzai]

The only good men collection that Raf has done for Prada so far. I remember being obsessed with those coats

 

[jeanclaude]

Yeah I was wondering like since the collar and facing are cut on the grain then that would provide a bit of structure in the front, and I'm sure there must be some sort of canvas or fusing in there as well. And just looking at how it hangs overall in the back and arms I don't see any sort of warped spots in the cords, I feel like it has to be fused. Which is redundant af if true. But I really don't know anything lol. I should just try.

I was intrigued and I watched the video of the show. By the way the yellow corduroy moves, I think it is cut on grain (the way the hem stays still)...but the corduroy has been woven with diagonal cords instead of straight ones (the classic version) to give it a twist.

EDIT: It is not bias, it is corduroy in diagonal weave:

PAUSE or Skip: Prada Corduroy Coat in Yellow

Visit the post for more.

pausemag.co.uk

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I know even Prada’s website at the time said diagonal weave but it was cut on the bias upon examination and indicated too in the SA’s briefing on the collection, with the reasoning giving it a “softer feel”. They used the fabric from Kvadrat’s collab with Raf called “Phlox” (which is what I bought lol) that has the regular straight cord weave. But you’re right when you watch the vid, looking at the way it moves it’s so stiff away from the body. I remember examining the green coat from the women’s in the store a bit but I really couldn’t tell what was going on without opening it up. Feeling the fabric I have on hand I would think without any bonding the final product would look quite flimsy, but that’s so redundant to waste so much fabric cutting on the bias only to bond it to something inhibiting it’s effects? It’d make much more sense to just create a diagonal weave like you said. Alas I guess that’s “luxury”. Being wasteful to get what you want.