Prada Menswear F/W 2021.22 Milan

As always I'm the minority here but I think this and his debut collection are really nice. I mean yes, He's been recycling codes back and forth from his last two tenures but what usually felt awkward, incoherent or just downright out of place at Dior (let alone at CK) actually feels home at Prada to me. He definitely won't win over the purists and die-hard fans, but I think if Raf and Prada are committed to make it work this can become a compelling pairing and maybe serve some Jil Sander level of greatness.

 

I found this collection a nice balance between both of their sensibilities. Prada textiles leaning towards Raf silhouettes.

Miuccia is literally about to retire and Raf is the heir apparent. There’s no way he’s leaving the house any time soon lmfao.

 

A Raf Simons collection with some Prada logos here and there...Prada is totally lost in this collaboration, it feels as if Raf allowed Miuccia to put her logo in some of his clothes.

 

Do I hate it? No. Do I love it? No.

It is a big mash up of Raf Simons' archive (CK SS19/AW17, Raf Simons AW18/AW16/SS14 etc) mixed with Prada's one. Does not feel dated or modern.

I just think Raf have some nerves to bring back some of his work at CK to Prada. They did not please before, low chances, they will. Anyway, I need a bit more the Prada touch.

But I must say I feel like it will improve season after season.

 

This is overwhelmingly Raf than Miuccia. aside from the quintessential prints of Prada; the proportions and silhouette is definitely from Raf’s archives. It’s cohesive but lacks any remarkable aspect due to its already used or repeated elements.

 

Can’t believe we’re witnessing a Prada flop era.

 

i don’t understand why this ‘collaboration’ has to be such an obvious mix between what raf has done for his own brand through the years and what prada is known for

why don’t they just focus on pushing prada forward, this just looks awkward and very dated.

i used to like his work, but i just can’t take him seriously anymore looking the way he does and how he’s under the impression he’s down with the cool kids. you’re really not.

 

PS
oh yeah - forgot to mention — please dont do the Q and A after the show... PAINFUL to watch.. so contrived.
And the dancing — one big OH NO! Embarrassing moments to watch..... EEEEEEEkkkkkkk

 

It's not a groundbreaking offering, but it's a definite improvement. There is a sophistication here that hasn't been present in a Prada mens collection in quite some time. There are no sneakers, logos, or anything remotely trendy. It's quite refreshing to see a more fashion forward collection from Prada that isn't reliant on gimmicks. I do wish there was more variety. The collection as a whole is repetitive in some areas. I do think that it may be a little too polished. For the womenswear I would like to see him go a little bit more wild with some of the ideas. I would say this is a successful collection. It's not entirely interesting, but more than passable. It's a step in the right direction.

 

was this designed or did someone train a neural net on previous prada & raf collections?

 

I was looking on diet Prada’s Instagram and it’s kind of hilarious all of the Prada pick-me’s are fighting with the Raf fans lmfao two different but equally pretentious tribes are at war

 

isn't this background set up just a fabric version of his first Dior HC show's floral wall ?
one trick pony is the exact expression for him

 

Miuccia looked extremely chic as usual and she was the highlight of the whole thing. Even her responses were simple and direct!

The collection... Good outerwear, a lot of coats in mohair could be perfect for me.

Prada designs outfits, Raf designs items. The bombers and parkas could be hit but the collection as a whole does not really speak to the Prada customer IMO. It feels very hypebeasts and in a way...

Raf looked terrible but I’ll stop there as a decided to only highlight the positive for this FW

 

It seems that opinions are split, but I think we can all agree, if these were the type of clothes that came out in the 90s and the decades following that, I highly doubt Prada would be anywhere near the iconic and worshipped place it is now.

From the recent NYTimes interview, you really can tell that Miuccia has had enough of the negative media coverage where almost all outlets inextricably link the brand's dismal financial performance with its influence and relevance. Remove the pseudo-philosophical ramblings from the article and you'll see that she really went against what she stood for to make more money. The new brand philosophy - all about logos, no innovation or novelty, which Raf, in all his mediocrity, is more than happy with. But it's so sad that Miuccia concluded that good taste, design and intelligence in fashion is irrelevant and now, brands have to scream to get attention.

Love it, like it or loath it, this is what sells. This is the new Prada.

 

It's a solid collection, refining on a few ideas that don't seem very far from what Raf did at Calvin Klein to less success. The outerwear lined in patterned knitwear is a nice touch. Those pieces are versatile enough to fit into the wardrobes of many (people with deep pockets). People said there was something more Prada about the textiles but my initial thoughts about it was that it got me thinking more than a bit of Raf's ongoing collaboration with Kvadrat for interior textiles, which is actually quite lovely.

 

omg, the dance

 

It's funny to see so many takes on Raf's influence here. Sure, the knits and some topcoats/bombers (especially the noen-ish blue coat in look 34) are all reminiscent of his previous work dating back to the early 2000's. But the sheer amount of Prada historical references cannot be overlooked. From the military apparel- oversized bomber jackets and large trench, and peacoats- to the chunky footwear, these styles were ALL Prada staples from decades past. You can see the Italian craftsmanship in the suiting as well. From the cut of trousers and obviously placed darts seen in the suit coats, Raf and Miuccia wanted to ensure the fit of these non-oversized pieces was apparent. As for the accessories, those little purselets sewn to the gloves and some sleeves were first introduced in the 1990s and was more recently used in the Monolith Combat Boot that was seen EVERYWHERE a couple of seasons ago. As far as those musty prints go of course they are going to be unattractive and ugly! This collection was a joint venture where Miuccia Prada herself helped make the clothing after all ! I was very happy with the result. More specifically, I love how Miuccia is still invested enough to put her quirky ethos into the clothing and did not allow for Raf to flood the runway with his sometimes banal taste.

 

the dancing is embarrassing

 

nice coats. ‘that’s all’.

 

Looking back at it another time, I can say this is since a long time a collection from Raf Simons that I can actually enjoy. Why? I think he and Miuccia hit the right spot to push challenging proportions in a way that is still manageable to pull off. Such pragmatism seems to be a rare find in the industry today when everybody seems to push for more outrageous, instagramable fashions. While a yellow top coat will still be an eye-catching sight, it's balanced out well with a cut that feels classical enough so you'd want to wear that for more than a season. A lot of the outwear is based upon classics everybody understands and the addition of a knitted lining can be just the right update for a customer of any age to appreciate. The jacquard-patterned onesies will probably come as sweater options for those that are less adventurous.

A lot of the younger voices in menswear, designers that are presently in their 30ies, lack the pragmatism to understand the everyday needs of a customer beyond their own age and seem to think it's enough to talk to deep-pocketed generation Z kids in order to be successful. I find it rather difficult today to find intelligently designed menswear that hits just the right note between maturity and modernity and this collection, despite not always hitting my personal taste, still comes the closest at that to me.