I find this collection to be a very bizzare yet bold move for them in terms of progressing their label. The prints, the wild fur accents, the colour palette, all of that was very far from their aesthetic.
When I think of the Proenza aesthetic, I think of great tailoring with an edge. Modern but wearable clothing and most importantly, nothing that is exorbitant or experimental. In this collection I see an attempt to go outside their comfort zone (a sort of modern minimalism) and to be frank, I think they largely failed.
First of all, the patterns were a big mistake. And combing multiple patterns in one look is an even bigger no. Also the dyed fur trim is awful; very 80's and very kitsch. Which brings me to the awful colour palette. Usually they are so spot on in terms of colour, yet this season they seemed to create some genuinely unflattering colour combinations. Whats more, those fabrics towards the end were very strange for them. Those last few dresses were too dainty for Proenza; you'd expect to see them at Opening Ceremony or something.
I think they are feeling a certain degree of pressure from the industry to experiment more (given their backing from Valentino), but I find that when they do experiment and when they do stray from their aesthetic, they tend to create a mess, which is exactly what this collection is; a largely unorganized and experimental mess.