Racial Diversity In Modeling

[kahlilg]

^^ "insensitive"? I'd say stronger words are needed for a man who thinks most black models are ugly with big hips. I thought that stereotype went out in the 19th century? (Look at all the diverse body types in Sub saharan African alone.)

Wow. I'm tempted to burn my YSL shoes right now. The .

I know girl but don't do it. You shouldn't have to suffer for that mans ignorance.

And I totally forgot about the Kate Moss blackface thing. UGH.

 

[SHSH]

Black is finally in fashion at Vogue

By Ian Johnston and Photini Philippidou
Sunday, 27 April 2008

It's an open secret in the fashion industry: black models rarely get jobs on catwalks, in magazines and on billboards. According to executives, they do not inspire women to spend money.

Apart from Naomi Campbell in one Louis Vuitton advertisement this season, it would be difficult to find a single black model in a prominent position in a magazine. Carole White of the Premier Model Agency says she has received casting briefs requesting "no ethnics" and adds: "According to magazines, black models don't sell."

The leading British photographer Nick Knight says: "The fashion industry and the advertising industry are steeped in racism. You just have to look around at the number of black girls you see in ads – virtually nil. Among the main fashion brands, they are completely under-represented. It's shocking and atrocious."

Mr Knight blames business people at the top of the industry. A common attitude among them, he says, is that black models are "not aspirational" or "don't sell in Asia". He goes on: "I have tried to redress the balance. It is enormously important to use black models and models of different ethnic backgrounds."

Now a counterattack to the racism of the fashion industry is coming from an unlikely source: Vogue Italia. The July issue of the fearsomely cutting-edge quarterly will feature black models almost exclusively, shot by the photographer Steven Meisel.

Franca Sozzani, editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, told The Independent on Sunday: "We are using a lot of black models, like Iman, not only the models of today – a lot of different girls." Asked why she had decided to do this, she said: "Because nobody is using black girls. I see so many beautiful girls and they were complaining that they are not used enough."

Ms Sozzani admitted the issue could yet prove to be unpopular among some in Italy, where the xenophobic Northern League is part of the new coalition led by Silvio Berlusconi: "Maybe in our country it is not the best idea. But I don't care. I think it is not my problem if they don't like it – it's their problem."

Sarah Doukas, managing director of model agency Storm, says: "There has been frustration over the years from a lot of ethnic models, stylists and editors who have felt that they were not working as much as some of their Caucasian counterparts."

But she added: "There has been a shift recently: supportive media coverage has had an impact on the fashion industry."

Nick Knight welcomes the prospect of Vogue Italia's all-black edition but adds a note of caution: "I hope all the advertising goes in that issue."

http://www.independent.co.uk/life-s...ck-is-finally-in-fashion-at-vogue-816213.html

Ok ok ok, I am sooooo angry right now.

This narrowminded, stupid ignoramous Stefano please. Big Hips??
Africa is a big continent and there is such a variety, in fact wherever you get black girls I know so many thinner and small hipped black girls in my own circle of friends that comment was just obscene! what is this the 17th centuary already?? Mainland european attitudes are oh so backwards its becoming ridiculous a "Caucasian Anatomy" this is not the third reich or back in the day when comments like that were common place! Im sorry to say but the days of backwardly thinking european designers has had its day, New York really in my opinion is amazing for diversity, acceptance and progress. His comments just reflect common european racist attitudes an stereotypes.

As for Vogue Italia? I will definetly buy this issue HOWEVER, this issue does not make up for the subconscious racism that is stuck to most of the fashion community especially its buyers. Its really buying into exoticism I think that this is a brilliant idea and I hope this sets a trend for featuring black models

What is so very sad is that there are so many plain, ordinary looking white models who are ok in the fashion industry because white is always in fashion especially in "asia" whereas black people are this exoticism only appreciated as an extreme and usually depicted terribly like with big afros, leopard print etc. Black is only in fashion at certain times, for black girls you have to be super perfect to make it as a model and thats why we have few black models but they are stunning like Iman Liya and Naomi.

Its funny how plain white models always get the campaigns why cant we have some plain black girls do the same. I mean even looking on this forum all these eastern european girls get so much coverage and are for the most part over exposed and very boring looking. This really digs at a deeper issue, this world for the most part do not view Black Girls as aspirational at all.

Im just sick and tired as a person of black and hispanic heritage , of this hidden agenda I really hope after that vogue italia issue people realise we need more Black and "ethnic" models, and also how racist the fashion industry particularly in Italy is, look at a prada show or the whole of milan and you can count the few token exotic looking models

I always thought Stefano was rubbish anyway I guess intelligence must be out of fashion albeit common f g sense.

*Rant over*

what do you think?

 

[kahlilg]

New York really in my opinion is amazing for diversity, acceptance and progress.

New York has it's fair share of **** too, I think that a lot of ignorant people from many different places agree with him. And worse, they don't even know how ignorant they are.

I mean even looking on this forum all these eastern european girls get so much coverage and are for the most part over exposed and very boring looking.

Really though what is going on? I mean Paris was the place to be for black intellectuals during the Harlem Renaissance, but now, I feel like I'm hearing news that would make me believe different. And this is Paris we are talking about, so any other European city doesn't surprise me...

 

[Diamond Star]

It gets worse....

Wonder why Black models aren't getting booked for jobs?

Back in 2006, Giorgio Armani was responsible for putting Kate Moss in blackface and placing her on the cover of the Independent's AFRICAN ISSUE

that was very strange...I still don't 'get' that at all.

 

[SHSH]

Well Paris is still in France and still a major european city, France is in my experience and of many others is one of the most racist countries on earth, it has a huge national front party like italy unlike the uk/usa. I agree new york isnt perfect but black models get more work there and are more appreciated. The thing is black people in the usa had a national movement of civil rights, sometimes i think in mainland europe anyway that that shift of consciousness hasnt happened for allot of unenlightened fools like stefano.

 

[janznote]

What's wrong with hips anyway?

What's wrong with hips anyway? That's why so many models nearly starve themselves to fit the clothes.

How about cutting the clothes to fit the beauty of the female figure - black or white? That's why women love Narciso Rodriguez's clothes because they flatter the beautiful figure of a woman (with or without hips). I'm not saying that the models should be a size 10 but cut the clothes for some hips. Hips are great on a woman. Artists have been inspired for centuries over the female anatomy - especially hips!

Sorry, you have to work a little bit harder to do your job to include hips for a female clothing line but I think these designers get paid enough money to do that.

Personally, I don't care for clothes that are cut for a boyish-figure. There are plenty of black models without hips including Chanel Iman and Mimi Roche who are both ridiculously thin. So I don't buy that (double meaning here).

 

[J'ador-DioR]

Well....

Franca Sozzani & Meisel ought to be commended for their efforts with this all-black issue but I have a strong suspecion that everything will just fall back into the way they were. One single issue is not going to change the mindset of an entire industry. What black models need is the continual support of photographers, editors and magazines....which in turn will increase their visiblity on the runway.

I admire Pilati for his honesty...even though his comments are borderline offensive at least now we know of the blatant racism in the industry that folks have been speculating about for a long time. It seems that he uses the odd one or 2 black models in his shows solely because of Saint Laurent's legacy of supporting black models.

 

[Bahiyya]

I know girl but don't do it. You shouldn't have to suffer for that mans ignorance.

And I totally forgot about the Kate Moss blackface thing. UGH.

It's a good thing it's not winter anymore otherwise the fireplace would give me some ideas.

Sigh. He's really changed my feelings towards the brand though. I don't think I could step into his store again without, maybe, carrying that Italia issue and leaving pictures of the models everywhere. Maybe Pilato needs to see Vivienne Westwood's optometrist since she doesn't seem to have any difficulty finding distinctive model-size black women.

I did not know (or forgot) about that Kate Moss incidence? Please don't tell me. Ugh, never did like that Emporio Armani scent anyway.

 

[janznote]

Hips continued....

Hips are great. Hips are fabulous! I have them and they have worked well for me in the past. LOL.

 

[sethii]

Note: please avoid discussion of politics or weight

 

[nyc_art_style]

It gets worse....

Wonder why Black models aren't getting booked for jobs?



Back in 2006, Giorgio Armani was responsible for putting Kate Moss in blackface and placing her on the cover of the Independent's AFRICAN ISSUE

RECKLESS!!!!

 

[SHSH]

Westwood always gets it right

 

[ShesElectric]

This coming from the woman who at one point did whatever she could to sabatoge her "black" competition to maintain her status as the only "black" top model.

She should leave the public statements to her hard working PR people and stick to whipping Blackberry's at her entourage.

Ugh, Naomi is such a guilty pleasure.

 

[kimair]

This coming from the woman who at one point did whatever she could to sabatoge her "black" competition to maintain her status as the only "black" top model.

She should leave the public statements to her hard working PR people and stick to whipping Blackberry's at her entourage.

naomi has publicly acknowledged that her behavior then was wrong...
she was younger and in an industry when bookers, designers, etc. are saying "i only want one black girl," i'd think you'd do what you could to make sure you were the one...

i think without naomi and her support of this issue, it wouldn't be discussed the way it is...
she started the dialogue, and teamed up with other black industry leaders (bethann hardison, etc.) to continue the dialogue and get more leaders (like diane von furstenberg, etc.) involved with changing the status quo...

 

[ChristionCouture]

It's a good thing it's not winter anymore otherwise the fireplace would give me some ideas.

Sigh. He's really changed my feelings towards the brand though. I don't think I could step into his store again without, maybe, carrying that Italia issue and leaving pictures of the models everywhere. Maybe Pilato needs to see Vivienne Westwood's optometrist since she doesn't seem to have any difficulty finding distinctive model-size black women.

I did not know (or forgot) about that Kate Moss incidence? Please don't tell me. Ugh, never did like that Emporio Armani scent anyway.

Please don't change feelings towards the brand Yves Saint Laurent. The original designer, Yves Saint Laurent (who is still alive) has done more for Blacks in modeling than any other designer ever. He was the FIRST designer to put black models (mind you, not just one or two) on the Parisian runways. He started the trend for Black models. He TRULY appreciated black beauty. And you know what's so ironic about this situation with Pilati? I have an YSL DVD that goes behind the scenes with Mr YSL (no pilati) and almost all of his clothes were fitted on Black women. In his design studio, 5 out of 6 fitting models were black.

 

[janznote]

Westwood always gets it right

You know, I try not to say too much on TFS but this topic is so relevant right now that I can't help it.

If larger hips are a factor then there are styles that are in most collections that would fit a Black model's figure better than others, for instance flowing skirts or gowns, and A-line dresses. Matter of fact, some of these designs would look better on a shapely model than a boyish-shaped model. The bottom line is that if designers have to put in an effort to include Black models –– many of them would rather not; but I don't believe the effort is that traumatic. It is just that they would rather not. Shame.

 

[ChristionCouture]

This forum is being run by Cuban dictators and it's really irritating the hell out of me. To the members participating in this topic, why are we not allowed to discuss issues that are relevant to this topic? Why are there a lack of black models in fashion? Does it not come down to political issues that apply to ALL human interactions? Does it not come down to political and social issues such as equal opportunity employment, civil rights, world race relations, and other relevant issues. The fact is that many designers use weight and body types as an excuse to exclude black models. When you discriminate against a group of people for jobs in any other industry , you are violating their civil rights. Unfortunately, this board is being run by French and Cuban lawmakers and prohibit the discussion of issues relevant to this topic. And if we dare speak out about it, we will be deleted and sanctioned. So much for this "community." The Fashion Spot; Where Fashion & Anti-democracy meet.

 

[tangerine]

totem.blog.lemonde.fr

cigarette, m'sieur?

 

[smartarse]

we can discuss just do not get into politics and religion...

 

[kahlilg]

Please don't change feelings towards the brand Yves Saint Laurent. The original designer, Yves Saint Laurent (who is still alive) has done more for Blacks in modeling than any other designer ever. He was the FIRST designer to put black models (mind you, not just one or two) on the Parisian runways. He started the trend for Black models. He TRULY appreciated black beauty. And you know what's so ironic about this situation with Pilati? I have an YSL DVD that goes behind the scenes with Mr YSL (no pilati) and almost all of his clothes were fitted on Black women. In his design studio, 5 out of 6 fitting models were black.

See this stuff isn't making sense to me. If Muiccia had said something like this, I would expect it. But the fact Pilati said it was just out of the blue for me. I was just starting to like him too...