Raf Simons Leaving Christian Dior; Maria Chiuri Rumored In

[Lola701]

That was my first wish. But Ghesquière is not the genius he once was, and his Vuitton is just beyond tiring, sort of pretentious and very ugly. If he is going to do something like that at Dior I rather have Elbaz (although his time might be over too) or Olivier (I'm warming up to this idea more and more). Dior_couture is right I guess.

Anyway, Nicolas is one of the best designers ever, he is maybe the best one alive and it would be the finishing touch of an epic career.

After reading a lot of his interviews, i got the feeling that he doesn't want to give as much as before (Balenciaga) at Louis Vuitton. In a way, it's like he understand and knows that he is influencial and everything but at the same time that his clothes will never be as important at Vuitton as they were when he was designing for Balenciaga. I mean, Vuitton is after all a bag company.

A real fashion house seems really like the next step of his career. I feel he is preserving himself while thinking about his next big step.
I still believe that he may go to Chanel rather than Dior. It is the biggest challenge and the most prestigious job + a lot of people in Karl's team were very supportive of him. They all have 3 years contracts and i don't believe that they would take the risk to put him at Dior now.

 

[Creative]

Ghesquière would be the only one I'd tolerate at Chanel. But I think no known designer (yet) will get that job. I think Karl could do the job for another decade (maybe I'm to naive) and in ten years most of the top designers won't be relevant anymore. So this could be Nicolas' biggest opportunity to get into one of the two most prestigious couture houses.

Who knows. I'm honestly quite tired of this situation. I don't believe that the most important CEO's in fashion can't make a decision in almost a year. It's a difficult one, but come on!

 

[jeanclaude]

In my wet dreams, the Wertheimer brothers will hire Helmut Lang, back from the dead...and a Chanel urban avant-garde era would begin!!
Reality check: too much fantasy.

 

[anlabe32]

Chanel might be the biggest, but also the most boring and monotone house in fashion. I really believe Ghesquire is too experimental for Chanel.

But who knows, he might either spice the brand up or tone his creativity down like Karl has done.

 

[Chanelcouture09]

^To say Karl has toned down his creativity at Chanel is a rather ambitious statement - a large proportion of his collections are better seen in the flesh, the speak volumes for the craft and level of detail and design put into each item, there is a huge amount of innovation and time put into each piece he puts out there, so to say he has toned down his creativity is a bit harsh.

I think a big name would need to replace Karl, you couldn't put an unknown in there and hope for the best - you would need someone like Marc, Alber, Nicolas, Riccardo etc at the house, I would back Alber or Nicolas, but there definitely needs to be a level of stature for them to be at Chanel. Alber has something up his sleeve, you can tell.. the circles he mixes in, he won't be away for long.

I'm still reeling at the idea of Jonathan at Dior...

 

[Fashionstuff]

If it's try why any credible sources announced?
There are only "rumors" postings in many blogs but nothing from credible sources.
If it's true what are they waiting for?

 

[Lola701]

Chanel might be the biggest, but also the most boring and monotone house in fashion. I really believe Ghesquire is too experimental for Chanel.

But who knows, he might either spice the brand up or tone his creativity down like Karl has done.

In 30 years, Karl did experiment a lot...because of his 100% total creative control. Actually, the madness never stopped. The eras changed and he was able to adapt his madness and experimentations for the 21th century.
Sure Nicolas will not do something like his fall 2007 but at Balenciaga, he proved that he can work with his very progressive ideas and also re-interpret the past (SS 1998, FW 2001, SS & FW 2005 + 2006, FW 2009 were quite classic IMO).

Dior is not a house that allows you to do a 180° each season. Raf actually gave them the opportunity to move on from that 1947 New Look silhouette.

For a long time i dreamed of Helmut Lang taking over Chanel but we know that Karl will have something about it, as the majority of his studio may remain.


I think that the Dior thing is difficult because for the first time, all the LVMH fashion houses are doing good (i'm not counting Pucci). Givenchy is doing well and losing Riccardo can be dangerous even if he is becoming boring there. Celine is also doing well for the first time since they bought it. Loewe is one the best thing happening now.
If they want to "sacrifice" one fashion house, it should be Givenchy but, who can do it after Riccardo? Demna at Balenciaga is Kering answer to JWA at Loewe but it is a real challenge.
Riccardo can do Dior easily but Givenchy can't afford a 180° change à la Gucci or Balenciaga...

 

[anlabe32]

Well i'm sorry to sound harsh and i'm not talking about the quality of the clothes cause i'm sure it's impeccable. I'm just saying that Chanel's collections are an evolution of the previous and that there's probably not much room for revolutionary collections like Nicolas has been doing at Balenciaga for example. Chanel needs to be instantly recognizable and Karl has been very good at doing that. Nicolas' collections for Balenciaga have been totally different one season after the other. That's why i'm more a fan of the idea of Alber at Chanel. His collections for Lanvin were also instantly recognizable and a slow evolution.

But who knows. Nicolas' collections for LV are also very similar to one another so maybe he's trying to prove himself for the job at Chanel.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Chanel might be the biggest, but also the most boring and monotone house in fashion. I really believe Ghesquire is too experimental for Chanel.

But who knows, he might either spice the brand up or tone his creativity down like Karl has done.

I agree. The resources are amazing, but I can't imagine this is every designer's dream job. Marc Jacobs', yes ...

 

[george5]

Chanel might be the biggest, but also the most boring and monotone house in fashion. I really believe Ghesquire is too experimental for Chanel.

But who knows, he might either spice the brand up or tone his creativity down like Karl has done.

Agreed. I think when It comes to Designers qualified for Couture houses, the biggest requirement is to be able to cater to different types of clients, being interested about a flattering and understated way of dressing and when I think about that, the only names nowadays who can do that is Alber and Olivier (and Alaïa too). In my opinion, Couture goes beyond conceptualism, modernism and changing every season; even the same Christian and Gabrielle never made drastic changes and just evolved and refined their particular look. Couture first and foremost should be about the fit, quality and lifestyle - hence why I think Dior and Chanel aren't the place for Nicolas too.

And I agree with You fashionista-ta too, just because Chanel has money to splurge in outrageous shows and collections It means everyone wants to be there, in fact, I think many talented Designers wouldn't go there not even for all the money and hype of the world.

 

[Creative]

I'm pretty sure that Chanel is the dream job of every designer. I can't imagine anyone saying no to Chanel. Designing there is pure luxury.

And I think Chanel is 'boring' cause that's the way Karl sees fashion. Not because Bruno tells him to design normal clothes.

JW, Marc, Pilati, Alber, Nicolas, Hedi, Tisci... Everyone would kill for that job.

 

[Lola701]

My comments about Chanel had nothing to do with money. Of course, the money allow to do something big and interesting but it is more about total trust and creative control.
Karl's only job there is to create. Everything they are showing (at Chanel) is available in the stores and even the most ridiculous things ever are trusted by the exectuives. It is the best condition ever!
Not to mention that they own the most important ateliers and can do almost anything (concrete and wood embroideries).

Chanel doesn't even have a competitor as they are not publishing numbers. We know they are successful because of the lines in the shops, Karl saying it or our perception of the brand but we will never know if they have a slowdown.

Working for Chanel is the dream job only because it means working in the best conditions with the best ressources.

Remember that Karl was considered experimental in the 70's-80's. The only natural heir was Saint Laurent. Karl left couture in the early 60's.

IMO the designer who should take a couture house whether it's Chanel or Dior needs to have a personal aesthetic and he also needs to know about the world of couture. Raf didn't knew anything about the world of couture.

Riccardo, Alber, Nicolas, Hedi or even Olivier knows about the hierarchy of a Couture Atelier, the history of it, the "importance" of a draw and even the clients. It's also important to be a cult designer...
Alaia is the example. In the paper, it seems very difficult to wear because of the vavavoom and very body conscious fashion but actually, you can see all body shapes, ages and style in a Alaia boutique or in his designs.

People are loosing interest in Dior anyway because of what is happening in fashion now...so they needs a star.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I think it's pretty clear that Alber has said no to Dior. And if he'd do that, what makes anyone think he'd say yes to Chanel?

Think of the movie world ... does Wes Anderson want to work for Sony or Disney? Of course not. For the same reasons, I don't see Olivier or Alber designing for one of the big 5. I don't think Alber is going to go unutilized, but clearly Olivier is right now. That seems really unfortunate to me. I would like to see great indie assignments available for designers who should be working that way. These days, it seems that mediocrity and the major houses go together like toast and jam.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Dior and Chanel as the Sony and Disney conglomerates LOL

I suspect the same: Alber and Olivier may have very well turned down the Dior position.

I guess the Dior Corporation has decided that the label will be as department store mainstream as possible with this appointment. Maybe they’ll finally be able to sell the clothes, and not just the bags, shoes and cosmetics….?

Business-wise, this does make more sense: The general public/ casual fashion followers already identify Hollywood stars as the faces of this label. The high fashions were always a glaring disconnect with this demographic— likely just too weird and intimating. Now with a designer whose safe, body-friendly designs and bright colors are much more relatable to many women, I think the masses will likely support Dior now. And like others have suspected, Saunders will likely be an obedient, corporate-toeing CD.

 

[Creative]

But Dior has nothing to do with Chanel. Nothing at all. Chanel is above everything. Lola explained it perfectly.

I'm also pretty sure that if Alber or Olivier don't end up at Chanel it is because they don't want to. LVMH could be a hostile environment for them.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Do you think you're telling me something I don't know?

Dior and Chanel are both very large, very important houses. Both are undoubtedly pressure cookers. While quite different, they have a number of points in common. I'm not sure either is considered a plum job by (in my estimation) the very best designers alive today.

 

[squilliam]

I think right now the only ones who would accept the Dior position would be some young oblivious designer with stars in their eyes, because all the seasoned designers know how tortuous it is working there.
Well at least with Saunders, Jennifer and Co won't look terrible in those bizarre monstrosities Raf used to inexplicably crank out

 

[Fashionstuff]

I think it's pretty clear that Alber has said no to Dior. And if he'd do that, what makes anyone think he'd say yes to Chanel?

Think of the movie world ... does Wes Anderson want to work for Sony or Disney? Of course not. For the same reasons, I don't see Olivier or Alber designing for one of the big 5. I don't think Alber is going to go unutilized, but clearly Olivier is right now. That seems really unfortunate to me. I would like to see great indie assignments available for designers who should be working that way. These days, it seems that mediocrity and the major houses go together like toast and jam.

Alber would be perfect for Dior... he hasn't his own brand, he knows what it means to make 8 or 10 collections in short time. Sincerely , i'm not sure Dior would- want hire Alber because of the "Lanvin Story" , Dior must "Remake" the Image of the House, first was the disgrace with John and after Raf Simons left the house after so short time.

Maybe Dior will announce the Name of new designer after Easter Holidays? I hope...

 

[fashionista-ta]

They approached him last time and he said no because he was in a happy marriage ... I'd be surprised if the discussion hasn't taken place again.

I've seen no hint from any actual industry publication that any stigma from the unfortunate events at Lanvin attaches to Alber. The only place I've seen any of that is at tFS, so I highly discount that view. It seems clear to me he endured working for someone who's probably nutty for 14 years, and for most of that time did it quite successfully. The owner freaked out, not Alber. To compare what Galliano did (a crime in France) and what Alber did (attempt to sell the stock he had bought) ... no matter how you spin either action, they aren't in the same ballpark.

Very few designers can claim that kind of tenure, much less working for a despot, and I'm not at all sure his replacement will be able to. She is very French.

Given his views about the fashion cycle, and his tendency to stress, I would be quite surprised if he wants to go to a bigger house than where he's been. He can make a very significant impact from another perch. It's probably easier for him to do what he does best at a small to mid-size house. Currently all the rumors point to his starting his own label. Hopefully that will happen, and he can create a house he'll never want to leave until he's ready to retire.

 

[Fashionstuff]

They approached him last time and he said no because he was in a happy marriage ... I'd be surprised if the discussion hasn't taken place again.

I've seen no hint from any actual industry publication that any stigma from the unfortunate events at Lanvin attaches to Alber. The only place I've seen any of that is at tFS, so I highly discount that view. It seems clear to me he endured working for someone who's probably nutty for 14 years, and for most of that time did it quite successfully. The owner freaked out, not Alber. To compare what Galliano did (a crime in France) and what Alber did (attempt to sell the stock he had bought) ... no matter how you spin either action, they aren't in the same ballpark.

Very few designers can claim that kind of tenure, much less working for a despot, and I'm not at all sure his replacement will be able to. She is very French.

Given his views about the fashion cycle, and his tendency to stress, I would be quite surprised if he wants to go to a bigger house than where he's been. He can make a very significant impact from another perch. It's probably easier for him to do what he does best at a small to mid-size house. Currently all the rumors point to his starting his own label. Hopefully that will happen, and he can create a house he'll never want to leave until he's ready to retire.

I hope he will start with his own Label because in case of Dior is again a "marriage"
He could -would or can refuse Dior exactlybecause of experience he had in his precedent "happy marriage". His own Label will be the best solution for Alber. Sincerely ,i don't know what he is waiting for.