Raf Simons Leaving Christian Dior; Maria Chiuri Rumored In

[maxlinden]

You guys all bring up some valid points. I think the smart thing for dior is to get their brand out the mud. YSL was genius for putting Hedi at the helm, he gave them a new life and they name was once again in lights. John did just that for them when he became creative director and it worked perfectly. They need someone fresh and DIFFERENT, they need to new blood and new customers. Sarah would make some beautiful clothes especially with the archives at her finger tips but I fear she won't make the brand pop. They need a J.W. Anderson.

 

[StoneSkipper]

If they don't hire a designer because they don't want to give them enough power, then I hope they struggle to find a candidate.

It's just ridiculous.

I entirely agree. I'd be rooting for the house to get out of the mud, but the way things are going, the mud is exactly where it belongs.

 

[Norden]

Its really a problem that full control is not given. I for one really liked Rafs dior, but when i came into the store it was all lost on the horrendous and tacky interiors of peter marino. Hes probably the worst interior architect ever, i do not understand his appeal. For instance, the tokyo dior store built by the wonderful sanaa is een an eloquent architectural gesture of minimalism and then its filled up with marinos ****. tragic.

i think this whole discrepancy between styles and designers sums up Diors problem of today, its a whole large uncontrollable mess.

 

[Fashionstuff]

You guys all bring up some valid points. I think the smart thing for dior is to get their brand out the mud. YSL was genius for putting Hedi at the helm, he gave them a new life and they name was once again in lights. John did just that for them when he became creative director and it worked perfectly. They need someone fresh and DIFFERENT, they need to new blood and new customers. Sarah would make some beautiful clothes especially with the archives at her finger tips but I fear she won't make the brand pop. They need a J.W. Anderson.

The sales stalled. Of course, and it's not only about decline of tourism how it is wrote in article but because the customers would like -or want to buy the items Dior designed by XX and not by Team. Yes, the best examples are Hedi Slimane and Gucci by Alessandro Michele. The revenues are grown up ( we'll see if with Vaccarello at the helm the sales will grown up ...)
Maybe they must give more wide scope for their new designer- in case they will hire one sooner or later?
Gucci today is more relevant that Dior, who want buy Dior? Everybody want to wear Gucci ( Hollywood stars inclusive) .


@Creative, agree with you, they are surely tried to get Sarah Burton but they didn' find an agreement.

 

[iclawhands]

I don't know if anyone has mentioned him, but what about Thomas Tait? He's intelligent, utilises luxurious fabrics, but he's rather wild with shapes! I kind of would love it.

 

[Lola701]

Great article even if it wasn't really a secret that Dior is stuck in a formula they don't want to change.
It says a lot about the management of the house. We know that Chanel is Dior main competitor and inspiration but there is one thing that separates the two: the willing to take risks.

Charlize Theron has been the face of J'Adore for 12 years!!

What i find funny is that they are afraid to do in 2016 what made their success in 2000. In 2000 they gave the creative control on all the lines for Dior Couture to John. He refreshed their the communication around the perfumes, the beauty and it worked.
Ok, the disconnect between the stores and Galliano's designs has always existed but the image was so strong that it didn't matter. People were ready to enter those cold Dior's stores to buy the tacky Dior Rasta line or the infamous "J'adore Dior" t-shirts.

I really think that Alber is the right person for this job. They are not ready for drastic changes or risks at Dior and Alber will make a smooth transition.

I'm tired of seeing Charlize walking the gold hallway.

 

[Wintergreen]

^ Agreed. They should bring back Carmen Kass!

One can dream ink:

 

[Fashionstuff]

Great article even if it wasn't really a secret that Dior is stuck in a formula they don't want to change.
It says a lot about the management of the house. We know that Chanel is Dior main competitor and inspiration but there is one thing that separates the two: the willing to take risks.

Charlize Theron has been the face of J'Adore for 12 years!!

What i find funny is that they are afraid to do in 2016 what made their success in 2000. In 2000 they gave the creative control on all the lines for Dior Couture to John. He refreshed their the communication around the perfumes, the beauty and it worked.
Ok, the disconnect between the stores and Galliano's designs has always existed but the image was so strong that it didn't matter. People were ready to enter those cold Dior's stores to buy the tacky Dior Rasta line or the infamous "J'adore Dior" t-shirts.

I really think that Alber is the right person for this job. They are not ready for drastic changes or risks at Dior and Alber will make a smooth transition.

I'm tired of seeing Charlize walking the gold hallway.

They must hire one designer who has not only talent but also charisma, Galliano had and still has very charismatic personality (and he is of course a genie).
Karl has charismatic personality too.
Here comes spontaneos to name Hedi Slimane but it seems Dior and- or- Slimane by himself, are not interested to work together. And maybe another designers are not interested of this job because of control.

 

[Benn98]

Great article even if it wasn't really a secret that Dior is stuck in a formula they don't want to change.
It says a lot about the management of the house. We know that Chanel is Dior main competitor and inspiration but there is one thing that separates the two: the willing to take risks.

Charlize Theron has been the face of J'Adore for 12 years!!

What i find funny is that they are afraid to do in 2016 what made their success in 2000. In 2000 they gave the creative control on all the lines for Dior Couture to John. He refreshed their the communication around the perfumes, the beauty and it worked.
Ok, the disconnect between the stores and Galliano's designs has always existed but the image was so strong that it didn't matter. People were ready to enter those cold Dior's stores to buy the tacky Dior Rasta line or the infamous "J'adore Dior" t-shirts.

I'm tired of seeing Charlize walking the gold hallway.

Thanks! I think Dior's reasoning is a bit archaic. They probably don't want their cash cows tampered with, but I'm sure people will feel more confident if the creative mood of a house flows throughout various sublines? Gucci is actually doing pretty well so far, mimicking Michele's style to the rest of their campaigns. Chanel has been doing it for some time and it works. What gives? I could in a way understand why Raf decided to focused solely on the mainline (if indeed he too was denied access to the perfumes and beauty). How could his style be applied to J'adore and Hypnotic Poison?

 

[reese06]

This entire situation is quite unfortunate. In such a short time, Dior's identity as a brand seems to be non-existent. It's so sad.

I don't think Alber is the answer. I'm not sure it even has to be someone who has already had a chance to be at the helm of a mega brand. After all, Allesandro Michele was brought from behind the scenes.

 

[TaylorBinque]

To be honest, I don't even think the problem was the designer but the vision of the executives. From what I see at Chanel, even though Karl has all control, the board trusts him and they actually have a vision for the house. Dior has so many different images. Even their spokespersons are so different in personalities.

If you look at the Chanel crew, they sort of make sense in personalities and style. Or, even the Givenchy crew. Dior is my favorite house and I feel like it's not going to get any better soon.

 

[Pricciao]

It is quite bizarre how they lined up Eva Green, Charlize Theron and Marion Cotillard together.

 

[vetements]

Dior must be a big house with different sects of executives with immense politics inside there. Is not hard to imagine a designer being sacrificed under such a situation.
and I would imagine the designers being in a hard position to meddle/ fend for themselves against such politics, and ended being manipulated.

I really think in dior"s cases, the executives should be the ones to go. They are really being rather incompetent.
With Galliano"s departure and Simons" appointment, they actually have a good chance to revive it and pit against Chanel, now it is looking rather gloom.
The new bag is "nice" aesthetically, but with the little logo written there is like a copycat of Celine, which is plain lazy to rehash.

Dior should be a leader, not a follower.

 

[Creative]

^^Totally. But Dior has been a follower for almost a decade now. I think it's nearly impossible to change it unless they hire someone like Hedi Slimane, with a huge personality and who demands lots of control over the image of the brand.

In a way I'm "happy" to see Dior struggling, because they use designers as mere translators of what they want... They are no longer fashion designers, unless the house they are designing for is dead (Céline).

Sadly, there will surely be a desperate designer willing to sell his soul to the devil and get a little bit of fame... Wonder who that will be. Glad to know Olivier and Alber aren't. I thought they were on an ego trip.

 

[Alto]

I wonder how much general public is influenced by runway collections in their beauty and fragrance buys. I think they are more influenced by celebrity ads and how the goods are presented. Dior executives clearly don't want to ruin their cash cow. What sells fashion doesn't necessarily sell cosmetics. They are two different demographics.

Even Karl doesn't have full control on Chanel's beauty. Their beauty director doesn't work on runway collections and they even hired Audrey Tautou as Chanel No5 ambassador even though Karl doesn't like her. Gucci is also mystery. Just saw the bamboo fragrance commercial and is was so Frida's Gucci. Really curious if Michele had any impact on cosmetics sales. Does anybody know?

 

[vetements]

^^Totally. But Dior has been a follower for almost a decade now. I think it's nearly impossible to change it unless they hire someone like Hedi Slimane, with a huge personality and who demands lots of control over the image of the brand.

In a way I'm "happy" to see Dior struggling, because they use designers as mere translators of what they want... They are no longer fashion designers, unless the house they are designing for is dead (Céline).

Sadly, there will surely be a desperate designer willing to sell his soul to the devil and get a little bit of fame... Wonder who that will be. Glad to know Olivier and Alber aren't. I thought they were on an ego trip.

some designer will surely be clamoring for this top job...as for appt of some like Hedi...unfortunately with the current set of execs, (who is it? Sydney T?) I dont think they will allow a Hedi to come into action...

Unless the LVMH head will have to intervene, which may just be possible if Dior"s reputation and sales figures continue to go south...

possible you think?

 

[Creative]

some designer will surely be clamoring for this top job...as for appt of some like Hedi...unfortunately with the current set of execs, (who is it? Sydney T?) I dont think they will allow a Hedi to come into action...

Unless the LVMH head will have to intervene, which may just be possible if Dior"s reputation and sales figures continue to go south...

possible you think?

Yup, Sidney. I don't think it will happen either. I mean, they have been in talks with Saunders and Sarah Burton... All they want is a puppet with no personality.

But this is taking too long. I think they have considered every possible candidate by now. Yet they are still clueless. They knew this was going to happen a year ago! I think they can hire nearly anyone... They seem desperate.


@Alto, runway shows are more important than what people usually think. That's why Vuitton or Hermès did it... Because selling products is "easier" when you have the fashion thing behind. And more when we are talking about a COUTURE brand.

Dior was what it was in 2005 because of Galliano, just because of him and his vision for Dior. You knew what Dior stood for, and although cosmetic campaigns were sort of bland, the whole image of the brand was strong and had a personality.

Sometimes a complete revamp is necessary. And Dior needs a complete revamp. That's what Hedi did at YSL and it worked. That's what Tom did at Gucci and it worked. What Karl did at Chanel, what Galliano did at Dior... But now CEO's are too afraid to let the sort of people on whom they built their success take control again. They think they are above everything yet their formula isn't working anymore...

 

[Lola701]

I wonder how much general public is influenced by runway collections in their beauty and fragrance buys. I think they are more influenced by celebrity ads and how the goods are presented. Dior executives clearly don't want to ruin their cash cow. What sells fashion doesn't necessarily sell cosmetics. They are two different demographics.

Even Karl doesn't have full control on Chanel's beauty. Their beauty director doesn't work on runway collections and they even hired Audrey Tautou as Chanel No5 ambassador even though Karl doesn't like her. Gucci is also mystery. Just saw the bamboo fragrance commercial and is was so Frida's Gucci. Really curious if Michele had any impact on cosmetics sales. Does anybody know?

The runway shows counts. Karl may not have a total control on Chanel's beauty but he is the face of Chanel and act as a consultant. That's how people like Vanessa P, Keira K, Anna M have beauty contracts with the brand.
When Karl state in interviews that he doesn't like Audrey Tautou as the face of the brand because she said that she owned rain boots from Chanel and because she didn't wear Chanel in her tour for the Chanel movie, it discredit her as the face of the brand.
She wasn't even invited to the shows.

Chanel's strengh is that their visual identity has always been clear and consistent. Add to that Karl's confidence and it's a success.
Dior may have a lot of money but if you can't give any confidence to your talents, it's money wasted.

Apparently, Raf wasn't so pleased with having to deal with being imposed to work with Rihanna. Rihanna was an executive he had to deal with.

Michele has only been there for one year. Don't worry, you'll see some changes. Gucci money comes from leather goods and it is selling well and the fashion has a new energy. The beauty business will follow.
The Gucci revamp is quite big as they obviously wants to make it coherent.

Dior was what it was in 2005 because of Galliano, just because of him and his vision for Dior. You knew what Dior stood for, and although cosmetic campaigns were sort of bland, the whole image of the brand was strong and had a personality.

Dior cosmetics campaigns 10 years ago were nothing but bland. Pure tackiness, pure excess but so fun. It is almost unbelievable to know that 10 years ago, Dior wasn't the brand for "Ladies at lunchs".

 

[reese06]

It is quite bizarre how they lined up Eva Green, Charlize Theron and Marion Cotillard together.

What was even more bizarre, was signing Rihanna on when they did. She didn't really fit with what Raf was doing imo. It seemed so out of place.

*sigh... Hopefully they can only go up from here. The fashion cycle and the world in general is moving at such a rapid pace, it just feels like this house is getting left behind quickly.

 

[Creative]

Rihanna for Dior with Raf Simons at the helm was just ridiculous.

Dior cosmetics campaigns 10 years ago were nothing but bland. Pure tackiness, pure excess but so fun. It is almost unbelievable to know that 10 years ago, Dior wasn't the brand for "Ladies at lunchs".

Well, Capture total with Sharon Stone or even the ones with Monica Belluci or Portman were bland for me. And in 2008/2009 the beauty ads with Sasha or Karlie were a total eyesore...