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twitter/BoFBREAKING BIG NEWS @JessicaMichault: Suzy Menkes breaks news that Raf Simons to take over at Yves Saint Laurent
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twitter/BoFBREAKING BIG NEWS @JessicaMichault: Suzy Menkes breaks news that Raf Simons to take over at Yves Saint Laurent
"MILAN — If Raf Simons ultimately takes over the helm at Yves Saint Laurent — as those familiar with the situation in Paris suggest — the designer will have found a sweet spot for his meticulous modernism.
The collection that Mr. Simons sent out for Jil Sander in Milan over the weekend, with its clinical white-shirt dresses opening windows on a sensual body and its slender paisley-print sheaths, topped with lightly veiled hats, was a master class in couture rigor.
Even images from Picasso’s ceramics were thrown casually into the mix, as though it were nothing to weave the artist’s brush strokes into a sweater, ask the family for permission and stir modern art into fashion.
“Midcentury modernism — the mentality as well as the aesthetic,” Mr. Simons said backstage to explain the anchor of his thoughts, and his desire to connect with a “powerful, healthy, happy woman.” A high-fashion vision, in other words.
The entire Milan spring/summer 2012, although lacking in new shoots, has had a whiff of “alta moda,” as Italy defines its haute couture.
But it is the total transformation of Mr. Simons from a street-smart menswear designer into a leader in women’s wear that illuminated the collections. Although the designer was traveling back to his native Belgium and could not be reached for comment on the subject of YSL, he certainly has earned an audition for that position.
A linear modernism was in every crevice of this show, from the set with its bright yellow, blue and green Mondrian-style squares of gravel, through the glistening gingham-check pants. It began and ended with the eponymous designer’s iconic white shirt — ending with it transformed into bridal dresses.
Between came sophisticated, streamlined clothes: pastel paisley dresses, drawn in a straight line to below the knee, but with subtle slits at the back or winking with sparkly brooches.
Compared with a year ago, when the swishing skirts in neon colors set the fashion agenda, this collection was less evidently an homage to couture. But Mr. Simons so thoroughly caught the refined, haute spirit in a pure, but sensual, and modern way, that he deserves a couture house and its heritage to play his fashion sonata."