Revillon: That antifashion thing can leap out of control, but this season Rick Owens showed at least as much discretion as daring, resulting in a strong fall collection for Revillon. In fact, it was his deft mix of antifashion belligerence with accessible chic that made it all work. Owens took a rather somber palette of smoky grays, olives and black and lightened it up with his gentle layering of slim but fluid shapes. There were plenty of furs here — and they were real beauties. But with a few exceptions, including a long, lush sable coat, they worked mostly as accents and little cover-ups for his ready-to-wear. The designer opted for washed silk faille for the leanest parkas in town, while asymmetric tunics, long coats and capes came in wool or suede, often side-tied with silk ribbon. These went over skinny pants, leggings or slim skirts, all in the muted monotones Owens loves. But it was his deftness with fur that gave this collection its appeal: sheared, plucked or simple mink; chinchilla or fox cut into elongated collars, and tiny boleros and vests. Owens once had an aversion to all things pretty, but this season he's discovered that a little charm goes a long way.
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