HeatherAnne
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Those pictures are flat out amazing, thanks cynthiawood for posting!
knoll.com, nytimes.comRodarte for Knoll Luxe
These days, fashion-design collaborations are so common that they’re beginning to seem a little, well, old hat. But the clothing label Rodarte’s collaboration with Knoll Luxe (www.knoll-luxe.com), a luxury textile division of the furniture company Knoll Inc., is anything but.
Kate and Laura MulleavyAutumn de Wilde Kate and Laura Mulleavy.
Since starting Rodarte in 2005, Kate and Laura Mulleavy have become known for developing fabrics for their collections and transforming them in weird and wonderful ways — think burning, scorching, staining, sanding and shredding, to name a few of their unorthodox techniques. Dorothy Cosonas, Knoll Textile’s creative director and the mastermind behind Knoll Luxe (and its earlier collaboration with another fashion label, Proenza Schouler), was intrigued by the Mulleavys’ affinity for textiles and invited them to design a line of textiles that will make their debut in early May. (Knoll Luxe will open a showroom in the D&D Building in New York at the same time.)
The collection’s eight fabrics — three for drapery and five for upholstery — are named after the Mulleavys’ favorite poets. As undergraduates at Berkeley, Laura studied literature and Kate studied art history, and both sisters are avid readers. “Fabrics always take on a life of their own for us,” Kate explained. “We’re constantly reworking our fabrics and are very open to how things are created. When Dorothy asked us to collaborate, we were really excited to be able to focus so intensely on the design of the textiles themselves.” Like their fashion collections, which often strike a precarious balance between toughness and fragility, decay and glamour, or the primitive and the futuristic, the textiles display a meticulous attention to detail and a keen sense of texture and structure. “We didn’t feel one constraint during the design process,” Laura continued, “and we thought a lot about how the different textiles could be combined in an interior in the same way we combine different fabrics and treatments in one dress.”
The sisters identified key pieces from their recent fashion collections as points of departure for each of the Knoll Luxe textiles. Inspired by the ombré dip-dyed dresses from Rodarte’s spring/summer 2009 collection, the unusual hues of Auden, a drapery textile, are digitally printed up the roll of woven ramie, so there is never a vertical repeat. With Parker, also designed for drapery, fine metallic and cotton threads and strands of wool seem suspended within the fabric’s sheer, delicate body. Laura said that she loved “the way that instead of looking like a perfect weave, it looks broken and tattered and makes a connection to our spider-weave dresses.” Cummings, a cotton and silk upholstery fabric with a remarkable depth and iridescence, comes in Shadow, Rain, Cameo, and Parchment, and its surface texture recalls water stains or, at a large scale, the mottled surface of cowhide. Emerson, a sheer drapery fabric covered with 3-D embroidered dots like the studded surfaces of some of Rodarte’s Fall 2009 garments, made its debut in the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum’s recent exhibition Quicktake: Rodarte, where it was burned, reworked and transformed beyond recognition. As Matilda McQuaid, the museum’s deputy curatorial director and head of textiles, observed, “It almost ceased to be a textile and became something else entirely.” McQuaid was so entranced by Rodarte’s Knoll fabrics that she acquired seven of them for the museum’s collection.
“Kate and Laura really nailed it,” said Cosonas, who admires their understanding of color, technique and craft, as well as the many ways the textiles can be mixed and matched to work in residential interiors. That the exquisite, intricate (and sometimes accidental) effects of the sisters’ experiments with fabric have translated so well into mass-produced, machine-made textiles is one of the true beauties of the collection.
A First Look at Rodarte's Black Swan Costumes In Action
We've seen a photo preview of one of the ballet costumes Laura and Kate Mulleavy created for Natalie Portman to wear in Darren Aronofsky's upcoming film Black Swan, but now that the movie's trailer just came out, we have a peek at the rest of the 39 costumes they created to outfit the entire ballet corps — in action. Better news for the Rodarte girls that the cancellation of their makeup collaboration with M.A.C. yesterday.