Saint Laurent F/W 2022.23 Paris

[THD96]

Wow what a show! This alongside with his FW 2020 are the best of his career.

I see Yves, Tom Ford and even Stefano in this collection too.

Anthony knows his strength, he is really good at remixing his predecessors works but still able to inject his touches. This is how you referencing the past and still making it relevant for today. Nowadays you see designers trying so hard to sell nostalgia that they ended up making no sense for today.

The big coats are the stars of this show. They are decadence and luxurious. The evening dresses are grown-up and sexy, this is how you do sexy while still clothed.

The hair, makeup and casting are also complimenting the collection.

And not a single bag in this collection, Anthony really said this collection is about the clothes the clothes only.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Best collection he's done here. I hope he keeps it moving in this direction!!

I really thought the fake fur looked cheap though. With the exception of Yasmin's. They probably knew to give her the best one lol

 

[dior_couture1245]

The clothes are pretty nice. It's good seeing some glamorous things that look adult.

Shame about the faux fur. The collection would have really benefitted from real fur.

While many of these girls are beautiful, I agree that they're all almost too gangly...it doesn't really help these clothes. You'd love to see them on a slightly more athletic model.

 

[disco54]

This is his best collection it reminded me a lot Pilati's work tbh but more sexier, clothes for grown women. I agree with what others have said the models don't suit the clothes, they looked anemic and gaunt.

 

[velvetandsilk]

Gorgeous collection.

I must point out that seeing so many models struggling to walk made me feel a bit uncomfortable though.

After 2010 a lot of girls have problem with walk.They are unable walk in high heels and also problem with flat shoes. It is a very unprofessional. Casting directors should start pay attention for this.

 

[charles01]

I loved this and thought it was so LUXURIOUS.

I thought every single look was timeless, and in the collection there was something for everyone.

I like when Vaccarello doesn’t just create something in Hedi’s style. I also adored S/S 2022, but this tops that for me!

This, alongside A/W 2020 has to be the best of AV’s Saint Laurent collections, in my opinion!

I’m in awe as I see the pictures again, and whoever did the styling deserves a raise! Just fantastic!

 

[Ruito]

I loved it! Very chic!

 

[yslforever]

YSL archives curated by Anthony Vaccarello. It's beautiful but as a designer Anthony brings absolutely nothing to the table. Yves was a genius and he should be credited as the creator of this collection. This is just lazy.

The laziest thing is that Kering did not even raise a finger for the 60th birthday exhibitions in Paris right, they did not even show up at the opening.
Seeing the womenswear so good for once makes their menswear look so terrible in comparison (that Venice collection).

 

[Frederic01]

I must be in the minority but I thought this collection was pretty average, particularly compared to his previous work. For the first time I found the whole thing incredibly mundane and boring. Anthony's whole schtick has become very repetitive after so many years of the same: the Eiffel tower, the electronic soundtrack by SebastiAn, the strappy stilettos, the 80's vibe, etc.

There is nothing new or interesting about this collection; just a lot of recycled ideas from previous Anthony shows, mixed in with some references to 00's Tom Ford, and some Riccardo Tisci Givenchy. Personally I'm not seduced by this vision any more.

Also those faux-fur coats and jackets look so incredibly cheap and nasty. I am shocked that Vaccarello thought to include them in this show. Besides the fact that they look horrendous, I find the whole faux-fur thing to be incredibly performative in terms of optics and activism. If you're so concerned about the welfare of animals, then why not cancel leather products too? Oh wait, that's right, there is too much money to be made out of leather for a brand like YSL. No real (financial) risk in cancelling fur, let's be honest. But cancelling leather! That's a big big portion of their sales and they would never! The point is, it's dangerous territory YSL is getting into by featuring those faux-fur pieces so prominently. This is not the brand to exercise woke ideologies. Gucci maybe, but YSL, no. Monsieur Saint Laurent would never stoop so low as to pander to the masses.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Beautiful collection well presented. Give the campaign to Yasmeen and Omahyra

 

[Machinegumm]

Beautiful silhouettes, nice presentation. I needed that palette cleanser.

 

[jeanclaude]

Archives for the new generation of customers, just to avoid they spend their money buying the original versions in vintage shops.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Probably one of the best of the season for sure.

 

[Lola701]

YSL archives curated by Anthony Vaccarello. It's beautiful but as a designer Anthony brings absolutely nothing to the table. Yves was a genius and he should be credited as the creator of this collection. This is just lazy.

That’s what he does best. He curates perfectly well the heritage of those before him and his vision is what keeps the brand on top.
In terms of pure clothing or techniques, it’s not that impressive. I have some dresses from those 2003 collections, they are masterpieces. And to be honest nobody has yet topped Tom and Stefano in terms of quality and sophistication at YSL.

The draping could have been more ambitious. I think Nicolas Ghesquiere pushed himself when he referenced Yves in 2009…
But this is just right and oh so refreshing. It doesn’t reinvent anything but he proves that women can still be sensual.

I think that unlike Hedi (who also went heavily on the archives), he understand the spirit of YSL…It’s maybe a little bit trashier sometimes but the YSL woman wasn’t a rock chick.

About the Fake Fur, Yves did it too in the 90’s when there was huge campaigns against fur. But I think KERING brands uses shearling. There’s no more fox or mink but shearling. Everybody uses shearling anyway.

Now after we praised the collection, I’m afraid of what the campaigns might look like.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I have some dresses from those 2003 collections, they are masterpieces. And to be honest nobody has yet topped Tom and Stefano in terms of quality and sophistication at YSL.

You love to hear it.

 

[Lola701]

You love to hear it.

It’s simply true lol. Stefano is maybe the only designer who has made dresses and pants out of weird mix of sweatpants jersey into something luxurious and elevated (spring 2008). But I don’t know if Vaccarello is one of those designers obsessed by the techniques and the fabrics…But at least he gives glamour.

 

[dior_couture1245]

It’s simply true lol. Stefano is maybe the only designer who has made dresses and pants out of weird mix of sweatpants jersey into something luxurious and elevated (spring 2008). But I don’t know if Vaccarello is one of those designers obsessed by the techniques and the fabrics…But at least he gives glamour.

Totally agree. I remember seeing Stefano's early collections in stores back in 2005 and 2006...I remember loving everything...so rich in details and fabrications. Back when designer clothing looked like designer clothing.

And Tom's clothes - especially from the two 2003 collections - are masterpieces. I think I've only seen 1-2 pieces IRL, but even from pictures, you can just tell they are masterfully designed, constructed and made. Designers now don't bother to make things that rich anymore. Everything is now is very straightforward - princess seams, conventional darts, etc. etc.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

This collection is everything I love about fashion and clothes. Not a bad thing in the whole show. I crave so much for luxurious looks, for sensuality and glamour and I am happy Anthony gives us that truly.

I really love him at SLP.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

The collection only arrived at the 7 minute mark. When that black dress (look 31) with the tiniest of straps and bold neckline caught a breeze as the model turned, my heart nearly jumped- a piece engineered for excitement.

Beautiful clothes that displayed a modest luxury- well, that was until the slight vulgarity kicked in the occasionally exposed breast- Vaccarello delivered this season.

I am so tired of this concept “compared to what is happening in the industry today, this was really great”. No, these were well cut clothes designed to near perfection from a fit perspetive. I am such a fan of YSL that I do not mind the re-issuance of styles as @jeanclaude pointed out. Though to someone who is looking for progression, I can understand the frustration.

An admirable effort from AV, however I believe the showing could have been cut in half and still achieve the effect it did. I will give him a round of applause from across the Atlantic.

 

[kasper!]

I am just happy there are many evening dresse shown!

#Notee
#Nohoody
#Nosneaker