Saint Laurent F/W 2022.23 Paris

[WAVES]

am the only person who was unimpressed? like there was nothing really new… a few interesting looks, yes.

also, the make up was terrible, the models looked pasty and sick and it brought all the outfits down IMO

 

[MyNameIs]

Love this. Every single look.

 

[blackcherrified]

For me I just feel that some of the offerings are too similar to what’s already available on the market from other brands (e.g. the first look is so similar to what I am seeing in the Balmain boutique)… I need something more

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Beautiful! Great coats regardless of the fake fur. Makes sense why the collection was a bit a somber and dark given that Vacarello's father passed away just a few weeks ago.

 

[CholoChic]

This is opulent and exquiste. Here is a magic à la
Alber Elbaz.

 

[JohannesL]

This collection is the closest to the spirit of YSL he has ever achieved. Unlike most of his contemporaries, Vaccarello clearly knows how to work with the archive. I actually think that the methodology to continue a heritage brand here can be applied to many heritage brands nowadays. Sometimes it is not a bad idea for designers to simply update the archive other than sending out tons of mediocre designs.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

This is opulent and exquiste. Here is a magic à la
Alber Elbaz.

I wouldn’t go that far. It certainly stands out in this era of “dumb” fashion. Compared to what Gucci and Prada did, this collection is a masterpiece. Now if you were to take this collection and place it in 2003, it would be forgotten once the season ended. While I do appreciate his effort I believe he could have taken it further. It’s almost too wearable. There needs to be a dash of fantasy thrown in there to truly take it all the way. If this is the direction he’s taking the house, I can’t wait to see more. The old YSL aesthetic has the potential to make a modern comeback. Hopefully he’ll run with it.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I'm one of the few that is left feeling underwhelmed as well.

Some of the dresses give a little bit of Alaïa which I am here for completely, considering what's going on over there at the moment. And it's also great to see a variety of evening wear options that are made well and not half baked.

Besides that, I'm left feeling indifferent. Sure it's all constructed well, but it all feels like too much of a production for such a collection (and I've felt that way about Vaccarello's shows and collections for a while now). We get Saint Laurent is a French brand, we don't need the Eiffel Tower yet AGAIN! Scale it back, condense the looks and make the runway narrower.

Also, like others have said, get better and more commanding models. You can even tell they're struggling to walk in the images.

 

[annikad]

I wasn't so impressed by his last collection but this has won me over again. Beautiful silhouettes and the styling is on point. It's so nice to see fashion for sophisticated women in this era of oversized sweaters and logomania. I'm a bit torn when it comes to the casting as well, one the one hand I like that Anthony is not compromising his vision but on the other it does look a bit uncomfortable to watch when models can't pull of a strong and confident walk that these clothes deserve. But all in all, I'm in love.

 

[yslforever]

I'm one of the few that is left feeling underwhelmed as well.

Some of the dresses give a little bit of Alaïa which I am here for completely, considering what's going on over there at the moment. And it's also great to see a variety of evening wear options that are made well and not half baked.

Besides that, I'm left feeling indifferent. Sure it's all constructed well, but it all feels like too much of a production for such a collection (and I've felt that way about Vaccarello's shows and collections for a while now). We get Saint Laurent is a French brand, we don't need the Eiffel Tower yet AGAIN! Scale it back, condense the looks and make the runway narrower.

Also, like others have said, get better and more commanding models. You can even tell they're struggling to walk in the images.

re the Eiffel Tower situation: Saint-Laurent has negotiated an exclusivity for the location for every fashion weeks. They just don’t want other brands, especially not Celine, taking over the place and the image.

 

[thatsfierce]

This is opulent and exquiste. Here is a magic à la
Alber Elbaz.

My thoughts exactly!
So chic. Maybe there's nothing new, but still so classy. Loved it.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

re the Eiffel Tower situation: Saint-Laurent has negotiated an exclusivity for the location for every fashion weeks. They just don’t want other brands, especially not Celine, taking over the place and the image.

The French do love to let the world know about their French-ness, that you can't deny! I always associate YSL/Saint Laurent with a grimier street setting thanks to Newton's 'Le Smoking' imagery. That would be a fabulous runway with such clothes, although I don't think the majority of today's models could navigate such uneven footing.

 

[yslforever]

The French do love to let the world know about their French-ness, that you can't deny! I always associate YSL/Saint Laurent with a grimier street setting thanks to Newton's 'Le Smoking' imagery. That would be a fabulous runway with such clothes, although I don't think the majority of today's models could navigate such uneven footing.

Those Newtons photo were taken rue Visconti, it's not grimy anymore. Also it would be Kering's executives' nightmare if Celine would be allowed to show at or around the Eiffel Tower (they pay 800,000 € per year for the exclusivity).

 

[LadyJunon]

The French do love to let the world know about their French-ness, that you can't deny! I always associate YSL/Saint Laurent with a grimier street setting thanks to Newton's 'Le Smoking' imagery. That would be a fabulous runway with such clothes, although I don't think the majority of today's models could navigate such uneven footing.

What about these loocations?

Rue de l'Université

Avenue Rapp

Rue St. Dominique

Thy all have the Eiffel Tower in the background and the street are long and ''flat'' enough for a runway show. It's just a matter of convincing/paying all of the stores to close for the night, chasing away the homeless, cleaning away anypiss (the French are shameless) or dogshit, security to prevent any activist from entering the area and to drag away the ones that do...

 

[yslforever]

"It's just a matter of convincing/paying all of the stores to close for the night, chasing away the homeless, cleaning away anypiss (the French are shameless) or dogshit, security to prevent any activist from entering the area and to drag away the ones that do..."

You'll need to get numerous city permits plus the involvement of its services and a police and firemen coordination to get that. That's a part of the 800,000 Saint-Laurent is paying to the city, among the Trocadero location and the exclusivity to the location.
Valentino last October show was partly inside the Carreau du Temple, partly on the streets, it was the same process (they needed police to cordoned the streets arounds and firemen for safety reasons).
As for the piss there, there are practically no residents only tourists on those streets.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

What about these loocations?

Any of these would be fun, but I understand about permits. As the years go by, permits becoming an increasingly difficult thing to acquire.

There just needs to be less of a production with the shows. I hate it when a runway has such a huge distance between the audience and the clothes. It would be infuriating to watch but the "vibes" it creates via social media probably makes up for it for those attending.

 

[MulletProof]

It's just a matter of convincing/paying all of the stores to close for the night,

all fun and games until you happen to be one of the ‘lucky’ residents there. It’s really not just closing for the night, it would close down the street for at least 48 hours..

As someone who used to live in a place where they’d regularly shoot so you’d see all the huge trucks invading the street, plus wiring all over the floor, having to ‘explain’ that you really live there so you can get past security, plus noise plus ask your uber to pick you up 3 blocks away cause.. not a chance, yeah no, sounds cool but it’s actually a major, eyerolling inconvenience so, glad they don’t hand out the permits that easily.. besides these locations look timidly cliché.. the location that’s all about the eiffel tower is so unapologetically corny that it doesn’t seem to get old, not to me anyway..

Also, nice collection.. rare to see a designer that started out weak and gets stronger each season within a corporation, some people are just born to become the CEO of Pepsi, no shame in that.. lol.

 

[brandon J pierre]

OMAHYRA!?!?! I'm going to faint.

It's Tom Ford-esque so I like it by default. Vaccarello is one of the few designers that can put on a show that has a similar maturity, vigor, and sex appeal that seemed like a bygone energy left in the 2000s. I can understand the point that this makes his SL seem outdated but I find it to be SL's strength and rather refreshing (without crossing the line to nostalgia).

Right its a little tom and a little ysl the mix that matters! love the furs

 

[brandon J pierre]

ITS THE LAST 4 LOOKS FOR ME. JUST WOW! SO SEXY AND NO LOGOS!!

 

[YohjiAddict]

Very different to what’s being shown now, beautiful production and nicely constructed garments that update key aspects of YSL repertoire…but I’m left wishing for something a bit less neutral, maybe a bit of Ford’s gaudiness?

It is infinitely better than last season which made zero sense as a high-fashion collection.